Lathe newbie - looking for advice on lathe for Shaker pegs.

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EdK

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Hi everyone,
New to lathes and turning....

I have been building/renovating an old house and have made some cabinets:

bedroom-wardrobe-wip-t92229.html

I've made some out of maple in a different bedroom too. I'm about to make a kitchen in a similar style (no exact plans yet/still :) ).

Anyway, I was after some cherry shaker style knobs for the cherry wardrobe and some maple knobs for the maple wardrobe.
Also some walnut shaker pegs for a hanging pegboard in a bathroom and no doubt some knobs for the kitchen.

I've had a look online and didn't find exactly what I was after.

So I thought about buying a small lathe for turning up the knobs.

Never used a lathe - is this achievable?

I want a small quiet lathe (will be using in the house in a spare bedroom...).

I looked on Axminster and saw the hobby series:
AWSL : (£183 ex-vat : http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... the-501245)
AH-1218 : (£250 ex-vat : http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... the-505020)
AH-1218VS : (£285 ex-vat : http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... the-505021)

Are these suitable for turning shaker pegs and knobs (and then for general hobby use after I finish the house - whenever that will be ....)?

The cheapest is the AWSL. Is the AH-1218 worth it or the VS one? Do I need the variable speed for turning smaller diameter objects like pegs/knobs?

Can I get away with buying one or two turning tools or is a whole set better ?

Will have a read around on this site but was looking for some reassurance that one of these would do the job so I can order it as it will take some time to get here (Channel Islands).

Thanks,
Ed
 
one thing that might be worth considering is whether you want a brand new lathe or a second hand one. If you have a woodturning club near you it might be worth a visit. You might get to try some lathes and there may be someone who knows of a goid second hand one to suit you.

Personally I woukd have thought any new Record or Axminster lathe would be perfectly ok for what you describe. One question though is, if you decide to do lots more turning of various things in the future, would you be happy to buy another lathe then if your first one turns out not to be big enough (in my case the answer is yes)
 
have you looked at plug it dowel?

If they dont have what you want, i would contact a professional turner to get a price. It is possible to turn them yourself, but there will be a steep learning curve, and getting repeat items is a learning curve in itself.

To turn some pegs, you are going to need a lathe, a chuck/means of holding the item, a couple of tools, a method of sharpening, a revolving centre etc. All can be bought on a budget, but they all add up financially. If you are in it for the long run, fair enough. If it is just for this project, i would think again.
 
Thanks for the info.

Yes, I think I am interested in turning beyond the little projects that I have in the immediate future.

I saw this package: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ah ... l-ax964079

With the SK80 chuck kit.

Am I right in thinking that has everything I need except for turning tools?
Is this a good deal for £418 ex-vat?
I like the ideal of variable speed.

I am not sure what turning tools I need but if you could offer any advice?
I'd be happier buying a couple of useful higher quality tools than a cheaper complete set to be honest.
I'd start off turning pegs and then see where it goes.

I use japanese waterstones for sharpening chisels/plane blades/carving knives/axes etc.

Thanks,
Ed
 
A roughing gouge, a spindle gouge (3/8"?), a parting tool, a bowl gouge (1/4" or 3/8") and a skew chisel (not too small) - that's the standard set up in a club, it will do nearly everything you want.
You will need a decent grinder - most people don't hone turning tools with the exception of a quick refresh of the edge with a diamond plate. You certainly wouldn't use water stones on them.
 
Plus I would add the Woodturning foundation book by Keith rowley as an essential item.

S
 
Thanks - will get the book.

Had a look and can get the individual tools (roughing/spindle/bowl/skew) as follows :
Axminster Premium tools - £108.86 ex-vat
Crown Cryo tools - £130.45

I've had a read around on the reviews on Ax. and also some reading on this site and it seems like the HSS / M2 steel lasts between sharpening compared to 'standard' steel.

Are these good tools to go for? Are the Crown ones better than the Ax. Prem. ones?

Looking to borrow a lathe & tools from a friend if I can track him down, this weekend. Then at least I can see what it's all about.
 
marcros":1nlq4nv1 said:
It is possible to turn them yourself, but there will be a steep learning curve, and getting repeat items is a learning curve in itself.

To turn some pegs, you are going to need a lathe, a chuck/means of holding the item, a couple of tools, a method of sharpening, a revolving centre etc. All can be bought on a budget, but they all add up financially. If you are in it for the long run, fair enough. If it is just for this project, i would think again.

I respectfully disagree. Like the OP, my first foray into turning was a set of shaker pegs for a shelf. I turned a matching set (close enough, at least) between centres on a treadle lathe I bought for 60 quid on e**y. Admittedly, I turned six and then chose the best four....



 
A friend dropped off a rusty Record Coronet last night.
Looks like it needs some attention.
It came via another friend who bought it back in the '80s I guess.
Hasn't been used for 5yrs+ I would say.
Will have a clean up....
 
I imagine if you're read around this forum a bit you'll be aware of dust management issues. and the overall subject of personal protection equipment.

I'm by no means an expert but I think dust from various woods can be pretty bad for the health and a bump on the head from a bit of wood flying off a lathe (polycarbonate mask?) or gloves tangled in spinning metal (dont wear gloves?) might limit the pleasure of turning a little!

It definitely falls into the category of ' do your own research' but by way of perspective, my new lathe was £500 about a year ago but my personal protection equip will soon have cost me about £1500 (once I have enough spare cash to buy the last bit!).

Others here will almost certainly know more than me ...but as no-one's flagged it for you in this thread yet, I thought someone should!

It's a great fun hobby ...but stay safe !
 
Well I cleaned up the lathe last autumn and have used it a few times for making shaker pegs and also cupboard knobs.

Still learning - watched the dvd that came with the Keith Rowley book and that shows the different skills very well.

The bit I find hard is the curve behind the peg head - sometimes it catches and then ruins the head :(
But getting better after watching the KR dvd...

maple-shaker-pegs-20180301.jpg
 
+1 Nowt wrong with them.

The problem of opposite handing for cove curves is often a combination of a persons dexterity and actual grain flow.

Sometimes reversing the direction of the form on the spindle can make it easier to maintain bevel contact.
 
These are looking fine.

Couple of points which may help:
(1) On spindle turning (ie when the grain runs along the axis of the lathe) the right direction (with the grain) is always down the slope.
(2) Don't be afraid to leave an extra bit of waste wood beyond the end of the peg you are working on. The lost bit of wood is not worth much, but it gives you more room for working that final curve with the skew chisel.
 
Thanks guys,
So far this has been my process:

-- rough out a blank with the roughing gouge at 2000rpm.
-- use the skew to go from about 30mm down to 25mm cylinder.
-- mark out two pegs on the blank with pencil lines.
-- use the skew to mark all the vertical lines
-- use the paring tool to cut the peg shafts down to 12mm (or 12.5mm)
-- use the roughing gouge to take the 25mm peg body down to 20mm (leaving a 25mm head)
-- use a small spindle gouge to make the steep cut behind the peg head - this is the part that I normally stuff up and end up then using the parting tool to make the head less than 25mm to whatever diameter cuts away the mess made by the spindle gouge catch...
-- if the above goes right then I use the small spindle gouge to cut both side of the cove ending with an 8mm neck.
-- blend the neck to the end of the peg using the roughing gouge and then the skew
-- use the skew to cut the face of the peg
-- do the second peg
-- cut the pegs out and then use the peg in a drill chuck and sandpaper to smooth out the peg face.... I don't have a small enough lathe chuck for a 12mm peg shaft.
I am sure one of you (all of you!) will be shaking your heads at the last bit, but I couldn't work out a better way. Well, I guess the better way is to buy a smaller chuck for the lathe or to make a collet of wood(?) which fits the smallest lathe chuck and then have a 12mm split centre hole to hold the peg?
I'm a bit lost.... :)
 
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