Workbench Structural Choices

[GeordieStew]

Hi all

I need a workbench. I've been planning different things, I keep changing my mind.

So, I am turning to the masses for advice. It'll be mostly used as an assembly bench...I don't do a lot of planing or chiselling at the moment. It's Stage 1a. So, I don't see it as my forever bench. Using Redwood PSE.

1) I'm probably going to use two lengths of 2 x 4 (44 x 95mm) for each leg. Am I best having them in the orientation of the photograph (A) or flipped 90 degrees (B)?

2) How many cross pieces (front to back) should I use? Will 3/6 be enough?

3) Should all cross pieces be in the orientation they are in in the picture? Long side in the vertical plane.

4) Would I gain anything by using 70 x 70 for the cross pieces. I have some spare.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Roughcut]

I'm not sure from your drawing which joints or fixing methods you will be using for assembly?
But you could consider laminating three sections of timber together to make the mortise and tenon joints.
The method looks very simple and is covered in the Chris Schwarz Workbench Book, you might even be able to find further information online.
However it really does seem like an easy method to use without the need to cut the joints.

 

[marcros]

i wouldnt use 2 pieces of 4 x 2 for the legs. I would use 3 pieces of 4 x 1 1/2. That way you can leave a gap at the appropriate place and save cutting a mortice. I would use the same 4 x 1 1/2 as the rails (and probably the cross pieces)

 

[GeordieStew]

I'm not sure from your drawing which joints or fixing methods you will be using for assembly?
But you could consider laminating three sections of timber together to make the mortise and tenon joints.
The method looks very simple and is covered in the Chris Schwarz Workbench Book, you might even be able to find further information online.
However it really does seem like an easy method to use without the need to cut the joints.

I did consider a third piece for laminate. Not entirely sure how I'll join everything.

The third piece is still a problem for one plane (depending on the orientation of the pieces).

 

[marcros]

Sorry, i repeated what Roughcut had put but i had already typed it out as he was doing so!

 

[sunnybob]

6 legs of 4 x 4 each? are you parking your truck on top of it? (g)

youre talking about a temporary assembly bench. 2 x 2 would be more than enough, saving you all that nice wood to make the mark 2 version with.

 

[GeordieStew]

6 legs of 4 x 4 each? are you parking your truck on top of it? (g)

youre talking about a temporary assembly bench. 2 x 2 would be more than enough, saving you all that nice wood to make the mark 2 version with.

I do have some 3 x 3, but not enough to do everything with.

I have about 8m of 3 x 3 and

2 x 4, i have 5 lengths of 1.6m and 4 lengths of 2m.

Don't REALLY want to buy too much more as I know it'll end up on the fire!

 

[sunnybob]

Again, if this isnt going to be a forever and ever, bash it to death bench, whats wrong with 4 legs of 3 x 3 with a foot overhang each end?

I'm always economical with timber,and many people dont realise just how string timber is when being compressed straight down as in a table leg.

 

[dynax]

my bench is made from 25mm x 25mm glued and brad nailed together, the only screws are to fix it to the base and the mdf top to the frame, has a vice mounted to it, it holds a 25l compressor and a couple of shelves for tools etc, is as solid as rock,

as it is now

 

[Jacob]

6 legs of 4 x 4 each? are you parking your truck on top of it? (g)

youre talking about a temporary assembly bench. 2 x 2 would be more than enough, saving you all that nice wood to make the mark 2 version with.

Yep. Unless it's for assembly of HGV engines or some such!
If it's just for joinery assembly why not just buy a sturdy second hand table? Or make/buy a couple of trestles and put a heavy door on top. Fire doors are good and heavy and available in large sizes e.g. 8' x 4'
Trestles alone can be handy for assembly, depends what you are making.

I wouldn't copy anything from the Schwarz book - it's very, shall we say, idiosyncratic. :roll: In fact it's just for bed time reading and best ignored for all practical purposes.

 

[GeordieStew]

It's as much about the journey for me...first one will be a practical lesson. Second will be about learning some new skills and techniques. Third may be attempting to perfect those techniques.

I do have some temporary tables now. I don't want another really.

 

[custard]

I need a workbench. I've been planning different things, I keep changing my mind.

You've fallen down a woodworking rabbit hole Stew.

There are loads of them; sharpening, building the ultimate shooting board, home brew finishes, which bench plane to buy, designing a router table, etc, etc.

Fretting about the workbench is one of the worst. Books have been written about it, that shows what a terrible woodwork preventing trap workbenches can be!

Give yourself a good shake and snap out of it. Just build the @$£&%^) thing. You already know that at some point you'll build another, so make something with that in mind.

-Make it as small as possible, many professional workshops have "flat tops" i.e. Formica topped or otherwise glue resistant assembly tables, that are around about 2' x 4'. If you need something bigger you use two of them, you'd be surprised how often you don't need anything bigger. If you build one of these then you'll always have a useful item to sit beside your next bench.

-If it's going to be bigger then design it, as far as possible, so it can be bolted or screwed together. In other words plan for the day when you'll take it all apart and replace it with something else.

-Set yourself a deadline. This bench will be built by the end of September, or whatever. Anything in fact that prevents an endless cycle of workbench navel gazing.

Good luck!

 

[AJB Temple]

I have a few workbenches. One of them is made from two heavy duty metal trestles with a big length (4m or so) of kitchen work surface slung on it. Got that free. This is as simple as it gets and is easily deconstructed when I need the trestles for something else. I have chopped out a lot of mortices in big lumps of green oak on this bench, using a 3 lb hammer and tough chisels. It is bomb proof.

Another one is made of a pallet box that my petrol shredder was delivered in. We banged a few extra screws in this and it is light and sturdy. I put all my tools on it when working outside. It is also used for planing, sanding and such like. This bench was free. I have been using it for a year now with no trouble.

In my proper workshop I have a proper carpentry bench and a metal working bench. The carpentry bench is a commercial one I have had for years (Swedish brand) and really needs much sturdier legs. These benches are expensive but apart from the vices, really no better than my free ones.

So what I am saying is pretty much anything can be useful. I think thick legs and a heavy top help a lot with stability. Bolt / glue everything together like you mean it, and put in plenty of cross bracing.

 

[woodbrains]

Hi all

I need a workbench. I've been planning different things, I keep changing my mind.

So, I am turning to the masses for advice. It'll be mostly used as an assembly bench...I don't do a lot of planing or chiselling at the moment. It's Stage 1a. So, I don't see it as my forever bench. Using Redwood PSE.

1) I'm probably going to use two lengths of 2 x 4 (44 x 95mm) for each leg. Am I best having them in the orientation of the photograph (A) or flipped 90 degrees (B)?

2) How many cross pieces (front to back) should I use? Will 3/6 be enough?

3) Should all cross pieces be in the orientation they are in in the picture? Long side in the vertical plane.

4) Would I gain anything by using 70 x 70 for the cross pieces. I have some spare.

Thanks in advance.

Hello,

Re-think the position of at least some of the upper rails if you want to fit a vice(s)! Personally, I would off set front and back rails from the side rails so the mortices and tenons do not clash. Lovering the front rails would prevent the clashing and leave space for a shoulder vice mechanism.

Mike.

 

[jnw010]

If this is mainly an assembly bench, maybe consider a paulk bench design.