Norm style router table build and insert choice

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LancsRick

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I'm not yet sold on building my own table rather than buying, but I'll explore my options. Router will be a Tra001 so there's a fair bit of weight to it. Whilst there are plenty of threads on here on tables I haven't found many specifically on inserts. Any recommendations on my options or indeed the overall approach to satisfying my need for a table?
 
Buy a steel or heavy duty aluminium insert.

Resin plates bow and warp. I'm on my second only because i got a free replacement. As and when this one goes it will be stainless steel for me.
 
Thanks. When I start looking at the prices of some branded metal plates being over 100, I wonder if I should just get the rta300...
 
Dont know what that is, I can only give my personal experience, resin plates warp.
Theres a guy in ebay advertises stainless plates, that will be my next one.
 
I made my own router table - it is far from perfect (mainly due to issues with the fence). It is the first time i tried to make something like this. What did work well though was the insert. I use a sheet of 4mm aluminium from ebay, cut a centre hole and 3 countersunk bolt holes. Used 3 machine bolts from toolstation to mount the router.

There is no flex in the insert, and it all performed pretty well when i first used it. I just need a stable fence now!

The seller was alum-droitwich and the current ebay item id is 271366318089

F
 
Hello,

Phenolic resin inserts are fine, actually. They are dimensionally very stable, flat and have good wear resistance. Better wear resistance than aluminium actually, unless it has been hard anodised. I would say the standard 3/8 thick phenolic is less flexible than 6 mm ally too. The trick is to make the opening in the table only as large as necessary​ to allow the router base to fit.

I would say aluminium plate is OK too, but how do you cut the opening and make inserts to fit so we can accommodate different sizes cutters? Not easy unless you have the means. Phenolic ones come with a selection of inserts. Home made phenolic ones can be done easily with woodworking tools i.e. a router!

Incidentally, my homemade table has a 3 mm phenolic top, so I lose no height adjustment on the router. It is as flat as a fluke, because the sub table is substantial and supports the phenolic top right up to the router base. I make my own inserts to accommodate cutters from 2 mm to 80 mm wide and everything in between, and I can drill pepper pot dust extraction holes in them, too.

Mike.
 
Ive done exactly this, I'm not on my pc at the moment so I can't post a pic but theres one in the what did you do in your workshop thread.

edit, just found it, its on Page 47
 
Thanks for the responses. Having read up some more, rather than machining my own plate and finding HPL or similar for the top, I've got the TWX7RT001 coming, which I'll then build a norm style cabinet for it to sit on. Seems to strike a balance between functionality, cost and time.
 
I have the kreg resin plate, fitted exactly as per the instructions that came with it. I even have the kreg adjuster plates in each corner.
The first plate rippled left to right and front to back. Low in one direction and high in the other. Kreg replaced it immediately, but I wont buy another.
 
The triton table top is a cracking bit of kit, it'll save you loads of time making fences and stuff. I found it wasn't big enough so sank it into a offcut of worktop I had.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 
I'm just getting kit together to build a router table, so far I have a 22mm thick piece of buffalo board, this is 22mm birch ply covered both sides in phenolic, rough one side, smooth the other. I have ordered a Kreg insert drilled for a Triton. If it turns out the phenolic coating and/or the insert aren't up to it I will stick some formica on it and replace the insert with a big piece of aluminium of stainless using the old insert as a template.
 
murphy":23ivssmk said:
I have tried all sorts over the years kitchen worktop, mdf, phenolic, and none were stable enough until about 4 years ago I got a cast iron top from Axminster and for the insert I got https://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/produ ... i-imperial -- the motor I got here http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+xact-route ... 003?tyah=y quite expensive but I have had no problems since

I like the cast iron table top however the t track for the fence seems to be missing in hte Axminster pics, only the mitre slot is cast. How do you get around that?

Cheers
Andy
 
Hello,

Before anyone spends loads of cash on cast iron tops, consider this: my table, where the router base is fixed, is only 3 mm phenolic sheet and there is a big hole in it for inserts. My fence is a cast iron job from a small spindle moulder and the router is the 2000 watt Triton. In other words, the top supports a tremendous weight. But it is flat! Are we blaming the wrong thing in having the top sag! Loads of professional makers use things like plywood and kitchen worktop for their tables without issue, some even just sealed MDF. It is all fine if you design and build the thing solidly enough.

In any case, are the Chinese cast iron tops flat? Unseasoned cast iron will move out of flat for sure. If i was paying hundreds for a cast iron top, I'd want engineering surface plate flatness. Besides, I don't see the point in a cast top with a huge rectangle removed so flatness errors, weaknesses and poorer wear resistance can be introduced with an insert!

Just sayin'

Mike.
 
I built a table, fence and base off Chris Tribes model and put in a 10mm Axminster aluminium plate with the universal adapter. I still had to drill the plate to accept the key to enable me to wind the bit up and down. Works very well and if it's good enough for Chris it's certainly good enough for me.
 
So my TWX7 RT001 arrived today. Having assembled it, my impressions are:
- nice phenolic coated MDF surface, seems spot on
- fence is a good solid extrusion, very pleased with the build of it
- features wise the adjustable fences are also phenolic coated MDF and seem sturdy
- two spacers are provided which can give a planer offset of 0.5/1/1.5/2mm to the outlet fence. Simple idea well executed
- vertical featherboards are t-track based which makes life easy for meddling with
- microadjusters are simple and work well

So those are some positives, what about the negatives?
- the microadjusters when fitted reduce the travel of the fence. Not a huge issue for me.
- the assembly is guided by an exploded parts diagram which isn't the best in the world. Took me a little while to work through them
- the interchangeable throat plate system is not great. There are 3 discs, each has 3 countersunk holes for fixing it, and 3 grub screw holes to act as levellers. You need a delicate touch doing this as otherwise you just introduce a warp into the disc. For some reason triton elected to just give you 3 grub screws, so whenever you change plates you have to grab a set square again and adjust everything.

So am I pleased with it on first inspection? Yes. For £150 it's a full featured fence and top setup with a really solid fence. It's a massive shame that the plastic throat plates aren't metal with 2 extra sets of grubs screws, but the plastic works work fine with a bit of fettling.
 
Thought I'd update this now that the build is underway.

I'd class this as a fairly normal Norm build, with the alterations of:
- TWX7 RT001 as the tabletop, on a removeable plywood base for any future usage.
- An extra 4" depth at the back for putting "stuff" when you're using the table (e.g. reference pieces)
- Oak edging around all corners, not just the face (because what better way to christen a table than rebating stuff for the table itself?!)
- It's out of 21mm BB birch ply rather than the 18mm ply it's designed for since that's what I had available. It's a seriously sturdy cabinet!


It's sat on 4 heavy duty castors which make moving the whole thing effortless - very important for me in a small workshop.
 

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