Router Fence

[SteveF]

plan is to have a 1 piece fence
I can always put a false front at a later date if I want to use for jointing
I have the basic idea but
I plan using an engineered floor for the face but what timber for the base \ triangles please
I have mdf but its not the easier to screw
glue and screw ? or a few dominoes?

Steve

 

[Shultzy]

Just glue it, its not a structural part. Check my router table build for the fence I made.

 

[JJ1]

MDF will be fine for the fence. I just glued mine together and it's been in use for about 3 1/2 years and I've had no issues whatsoever.
Personally I prefer a split sliding fence. Takes just a couple of seconds to remove the outfeed side and slip a piece of photo paper in behind it for when jointing timber. It also allows the opening to be kept small and adjusted to the bit in use. I've not encountered any disadvantages with the sliding fence as opposed to a one piece one. Photo below shows the bits and pieces just prior to final assembly. Since then a new table insert has been made and the various sized inserts are now square ones.

 

[Mr T]

I made a fence using birch ply like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tVHWaduVWcM. Later I applied some laminate to the face of the fence.

Chris

 

[sunnybob]

Split fence is the way to go. Why build something twice?

 

[SteveF]

Split fence is the way to go. Why build something twice?

I imagine it is easier to build a solid fence and get it straight
and then add split faces

Steve

 

[sunnybob]

Not necessarily. You need to allow for the through bolts and slots and if you put angled support brackets in the wrong places it can get messy.

 

[MattRoberts]

I'd be interested to know how many people with a split fence genuinely adjust and use it often, as opposed to it sitting at the same setting for months?

I have a fixed fence, and have never felt the loss of an adjustable one. I see the point of you use it for jointing, but I'm not sure many do?

 

[sunnybob]

Sir! please sir! me sir!

No planer or jointer. Got a thicknesser but youre taking your life in your hands trying to edge thickness.

Every time I cut a plank I use the split fence to give me straight edges to work from.

 

[JJ1]

I'd be interested to know how many people with a split fence genuinely adjust and use it often, as opposed to it sitting at the same setting for months?

I adjust mine every time I use the router. I set the gap according to the size of the cutter I'm using. I tend to open the fence just enough to allow about 2mm on either side of the cutter. Just a couple of star knobs to loosen so it takes seconds to adjust.

 

[edcruwys]

I'd be interested to know how many people with a split fence genuinely adjust and use it often

Yep split fence and always adjusted...maximum support for the workpiece with a 3 - 5mm gap around the cutter. No chance a small work piece can 'dip in' and improved extraction. Why wouldn't you?

 

[SteveF]

maybe we are at crossed terminology?
I read a split fence as being 2 completely separate parts left and right not connected
that is so you could adjust outfeed for jointing

or is a split fence, a solid fence with adjustable sliding faces?
you then pack out the outfeed for jointing?

I will take the 2nd option when I build mine

Steve

 

[sunnybob]

I was so excited about the planer aspect I forgot to mention the cutter widths as well.
I regularly use cutters anywhere between 3 mm straight to a trend comb jointer thats 50 mm across. Easy.

Split fence is a single backing unit with two sliding sides. To have two seperate fences would be almost impossible to synchronise.

 

[turnamere]

I used 18mm MDF for mine ensuring that I drilled pilot holes in the edges of the braces to avoid splitting. The sliding faces were then laminated with Formica using time bond. The table is now finished and has seen plenty of use, I just need to upload some photos once I figure out what I've done with my camera #-o

I'd be interested to know how many people with a split fence genuinely adjust and use it often, as opposed to it sitting at the same setting for months?

I always adjust my fence to the bit in use, better support and better dust extraction.

 

[edcruwys]

maybe we are at crossed terminology?
I read a split fence as being 2 completely separate parts left and right not connected
that is so you could adjust outfeed for jointing

or is a split fence, a solid fence with adjustable sliding faces?
you then pack out the outfeed for jointing?

I will take the 2nd option when I build mine

Steve

So, 2 sliding, sepparate pieces allowing for the centre gap to be adjusted for maximum support and improved extraction. Adjustment front to back for face planing is harder to achieve and with more accurate setting up, is less necessary. Better to use a plane for this type of work but in the instances where a moulding cutter mills the whole of the face of timber, adjustment so that the minimum is removed or slightly longer stock (allowing for a small snipe) is a way forward. Adjustable outfeed fence is more necessary on a spindle moulder and less so on a router setup.

 

[sunnybob]

Not being a time served skilled woodworker, if i tried to use a plane on an edge of a board, it would look like a funfair ride.

With the split fence I can skim one edge 0.5 mm at a time with zero snipe, and theres no setting up probelms for normal fence work if the two halves have been made from the same material.
For a part time woodworker like me, I think my split fence is a superb aid (I'm on my third fence, each with more adjustments that the last).

 

[Hemsby]

Mine is a 18mm MDF Split fence.

I adjust mine frequently to suit small & large cutters. If you do choose a split fence probably a good idea to cut both pieces from the same piece to ensure the thickness is the same.

 

[MattRoberts]

Fair enough - seems like a split fence is the consensus!