I've taken advice from the forum to heart..

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Bodgers

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After I got refunded on my Makita bandsaw I thought I would take advice I hear often on the forum: buy some old iron. I reasoned that I may as well be trying to dial vibrations and problems out of a solid old thing than a lightweight new one.

So, in a few days I will be going "Back to the Future" picking up a Bandsaw made in, ahem, 1955. It is a Whitehead BJ (12"/300mm I think, with 175mm/7" re saw capacity).

This one caught my eye as it was..

A) working, i.e. Currently able to cut stuff

B) to my eyes very original - I have seen ones on auction sites that don't have original light, table, stand, switch gear etc. I think even the paint is original.

C) for an old machine, it is not gigantic (but still very heavy) and It will not take over my workshop.

It has been used privately for quite some time in a home workshop.

First plan, once I get it in the workshop is to just use it. I have one or two small projects I need to do, so it will be a good way of working out its problems/weaknesses.

I do have budget to put into this, so I will be stripping it down, getting it sandblasted, repainting it etc. I also plan on completely swapping out the blade guides, replacing tyres etc. I think the motor is original so I may look at replacing that and fitting an NVR switch as it seems to have the same switch from 1955. If the table is out of straight, and I am feeling particularly extravagant, I may have table surface re-ground.

It is a bit of a flight of fancy for me, but might be interesting journey regardless. If it all ends in tears I can sell it.

Does anyone know much about Whitehead of Halifax? There is next to no information/documentation online about their existence other than a connection to Cooksley... Obviously, they are long gone now.
 
Sure Steve M will pitch up soon with some thoughts. I'd say though as a minimum to order a new blade asap. I spent a while trying to get to know/understand bandsaws by buying a secondhand one, which turned in to a frustrating experience mainly due to a dull blade. F.
 
Im sure you will find it chalk n cheese compared to modern tin.

When I got my old Dominion bandsaw, it suffered vibration which was disappointing, but I found that the tyres had worn and were longer running concentrically. I trued them up and afterwards the bandsaw ran perfectly, so dont be alarmed if it doesnt run smoothly to start with.

You will find the machine much more solid in every way. One thing I find dissppointing with new tin bandsaws is the amount of play and flex in the top guide support arm.

Is yours green or blue?


Good luck!
 
Fitzroy":1wc3yq8o said:
Sure Steve M will pitch up soon with some thoughts. I'd say though as a minimum to order a new blade asap. I spent a while trying to get to know/understand bandsaws by buying a secondhand one, which turned in to a frustrating experience mainly due to a dull blade. F.

Yep, another couple of tuffsaws will be on order. I started out with an Axy 250 10", but sold that last year as it was a little small, moved onto the bigger Makita, but it was more of a complete imbalance in the upper wheel that killed that for me. With it being new I wanted Makita to sort it, but they couldn't. 1955 warranty has long gone on this one, so I will be doing all the fixing :)
 
RobinBHM":cl2xtlb7 said:
Im sure you will find it chalk n cheese compared to modern tin.

When I got my old Dominion bandsaw, it suffered vibration which was disappointing, but I found that the tyres had worn and were longer running concentrically. I trued them up and afterwards the bandsaw ran perfectly, so dont be alarmed if it doesnt run smoothly to start with.

You will find the machine much more solid in every way. One thing I find dissppointing with new tin bandsaws is the amount of play and flex in the top guide support arm.

Is yours green or blue?


Good luck!

Yeah I think tyres are going to be one of the things that get done. It is interesting that this one looks like the tyres sit in deep grooves on the wheels which I've never seen before.

This one is both green and blue :) it is a little bit like the Makita colour, but a bit more on the blue side. I will post some pictures when I get it in the workshop. If it turns into a total resto, I may start a thread for it.
 
This is the first time I have seen Whitehead mentioned. I know nothing about them at all but I have a Whitehead benchtop pillar drill I bought secondhand some years ago from a model engineer I knew. Its a VERY solid machine that weighs a ton, it took two of us to lift it onto the bench. It appears they built very solid stuff.
 
Sounds good!
You deserve a proper bandsaw don't you!

By the way I am not a fan of sandblasting. It tends to destroy the smoothness and the fit of machined surfaces. Everything starts to bind.
Instead I use a very coarse knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder to remove rust and old paint. Of cause I do the work outdoors and always use dust mask and face shield and ear muffs and boiler suit and thick leather gloves.
 
Tyres are kinda important...I was lucky that I managed to find a supplier of new tyres for my old machine.

If you cant find the right tyres you mightwant to have a think about the scot sarg option of buying a roll of cork (by the metre).

I know almost nothing, so far, about bandsaws beyond having good blades (tuffsaws) and good tyres is gonna help.

There are many folk here who know a lot more and kindly gave me lots of help. Maybe they'll know the relative merits of cork tyres or point you in the right direction for appropriate tyres.

EDiT : forgot to say ..top tip I was given for getting new (stretch) tyres on... 2 zip-lock ties! Place tyre on top half of wheel as best you can, put zip lock ties on each end where it is in touch with the wheel to tie it in place (so it doesnt slip off when you stretch the tyre) then stretch to fit. Simple!
 
I had a whitehead machine i think it was called the junior but it very strong and heavy
I used and abused it for 15 years before moving on to something bigger
As I remember it was 10inch wheels and a 6 inch depth of cut

Ian
 
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