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By Bm101
I've used it as part of some gear I got as a job lot from a ukw member who sold up a load of stuff some time back to move abroad. Best used warm it works really well for purpose. For waxing soles it would be very expensive. I'd just use a candle. Does all you need it to do and infinitely cheaper. :wink:
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By Bm101
No. I made what was supposed to a tongue in cheek light hearted joke aimed a bit at Jacob but certainly not in any way 'ripping the poop'. I know he is far more knowledgeable about woodworking than many if not most. He's probably forgotten more than I'll ever learn certainly. Like many others I was glad when his previous ban was lifted because he adds a lot to the forum and tbh it was A Bit Quiet without him.
I've also been on here long enough to know he likes to poke a bit of fun and I would guess that as with most people who like a joke he can take a bit of humour back. That'd be my guess.
If you look at any of my posts I try to be polite and respectful to other members.
Good you feel the need to defend him but I'm not sure he needs it tbh.
Not sure if you misread the thread but at no point did I recommend any expensive finishes or ever have done... Unless you count the cost of a white foal and finding a spare virgin or two to sacrifice of course.
Might have been better if you'd PM'd me instead of relating to it on a completely different thread with no link or context if I'm honest.
Cheers now.
By kevanf1
Little late in seeing this post but I do note a fairly recent entry...

If you use acid for rust removal (brick cleaner is quick & cheap but aggressive) then a good idea is to rinse the tool out in a sodium bicarbonate (washing soda, not baking soda which will work but it's expensive). Washing soda is an alkaline and will neutralise most acids used for rust removal. A further rinse with plain water and then a good fast drying out with a hot air gun will help prevent 'flash' rusting. Of course give the tool a really good spraying or wiping with a general purpose oil (3 in 1 or equivalent). I tend to save the dregs out of fresh motor oil canisters and dilute it about 50/50 with white spirit. I wouldn't use 'used' motor oil though as it is slightly acidic so defeating the whole rinsing procedure :(
By woodhutt
GLFaria wrote:"A wipe" is not nearly enough fo a treatment with acid, which is what vinegar is (acetic acid).
In some cases I even warm the de-rusted parts in the kitchen oven - low temperature - before dipping them in oil, to make sure the oil acts more effectively (not my recipe, please note, I learnt that trick from some books on gunsmithing when I was involved in metalworking). Then, if you are not going to use them in the near future, wipe off the oil, dry the pieces, and coat them with neutral vaseline (no need to go to the chemist, the industrial kind used for for protecting lead battery terminals works very well)

I restored an old No 4 using the citric acid technique to remove the rust. After flattening the sole and generally cleaning-up, I put the body out in the sun to warm (the warm oven suggestion sounds just as good) then smeared it in lanolin (plentiful here in NZ :) ). Once cool, I wiped off the excess. The plane lived for three years in my often damp shop before the first signs of rust bloom started to show on the sides and it was a simple matter to clean it off and re-coat.