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By Robbo3
#1293891
To save marking the work when sawing off the nub, place a credit card with a vee cut or notch cut out between the saw & the work.

Tip 31 - Credit Card.jpg


The one on the left for small nubs & the one on the right for larger ones.
Apologies for the poor placing of the cards. The tool rest has nothing to do with the tip.
Last edited by Robbo3 on 13 Jul 2019, 09:38, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
By Jonzjob
#1293928
More cunning than a cunning fox?

Me too can't see what it is, but it looks good. I tried it but now my debit card doesn't work :shock: :? It sgould work because it's a new one :?:
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By Lazurus
#1293930
graduate_owner wrote:I have a sheet of thin plywood on the floor at the back of my lathe. This helps to avoid damage to the end of my turning tools when they fall off the bed, which they always seem to do. I put them there temporarily rather than putting them back where they belong, but got fed up of having to re-sharpen after they hit the concrete floor.

K


Sand a flat on the handle, stops them rolling about
By gregmcateer
#1294692
phil.p wrote:So cunning I can't see what its for. :? :lol:


I am assuming it's for when you have finished turning and there's a little nub left at the end, where the workpiece is held in the lathe. To avoid marking the work when sawing off the nub, hold the card across the end of the workpiece, so the saw rubs against the card, rather than your creation.
(I THINK!)
By phil.p
#1294700
Yes, I got there in the end. I was confused trying to work out which bit of the woodwork the cards were resting on he was trying to saw off. :D
User avatar
By Jonzjob
#1294724
Robbo3 wrote:Collet Chucks

Tip 020 - Collet Chucks.jpg


APTC Junior ER20 collet chuck
SCT ER32 collet chuck (Chronos)
Both chucks are M33 thread to fit my lathe.
Both collets shown can hold approx the same size. The ER20 is 13-12mm & the ER32 is 1/2".


I don't think the 'rests' are owt to do with it? They are also shown on this post I've quoted from. Previous page and they ain't going to show here init! :?
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By Robbo3
#1294815
gregmcateer wrote:
phil.p wrote:So cunning I can't see what its for. :? :lol:


I am assuming it's for when you have finished turning and there's a little nub left at the end, where the workpiece is held in the lathe. To avoid marking the work when sawing off the nub, hold the card across the end of the workpiece, so the saw rubs against the card, rather than your creation.
(I THINK!)

You've got it. Even a saw with no set on one side marks the rim especially if it's slightly hollowed - well it does when I try it.
Thinking that the tool rest would show the scale I didn't consider that the rest could be considered as part of the tip in my poor photo.
User avatar
By Robbo3
#1294872
Jonzjob wrote:Just found this Robo. I always use my Carrol drum sander to sand of my little nubs off :shock:

Is that the pneumatic type where you can alter the pressure?
User avatar
By Robbo3
#1294899
Let's see if this clears up the confusion.

To save marking the work when sawing off the nub, place a credit card with a vee cut or notch cut out between the saw & the work.

Tip 31a - Credit Card.jpg
User avatar
By Jonzjob
#1294953
Robbo3 wrote:
Jonzjob wrote:Just found this Robo. I always use my Carrol drum sander to sand of my little nubs off :shock:

Is that the pneumatic type where you can alter the pressure?


No Robo, it's one of these,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1p_Cn9McIsc

but mine is used on my pillar drill. It has a semi hard thin rubber surface and I use Rhynogrip velcro backed abrasives in it. The velcro backing doesn't really matter, but the stuff is very good and supplied from someone on the forum. Sorry, but I don't have the name to hand . I managed to damage the rubber foam on my bigger sander and after a phone call to them they sent me some more to replace it. From the thread below they have gone out of business when Bill Carrol died. His son, Simon, is looking to produce them again. After all they are the best you can get.

carroll-tools-drum-sander-t116196-30.html

Last time I used mine was yesterday to sand the legs on a small garden table. Easy, quick and good.

So good luck to Simon Carroll
User avatar
By Robbo3
#1294955
Jonzjob wrote:No Robo, it's one of these,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1p_Cn9McIsc

but mine is used on my pillar drill. It has a semi hard thin rubber surface and I use Rhynogrip velcro backed abrasives in it. The velcro backing doesn't really matter, but the stuff is very good and supplied from someone on the forum. Sorry, but I don't have the name to hand . I managed to damage the rubber foam on my bigger sander and after a phone call to them they sent me some more to replace it. From the thread below they have gone out of business when Bill Carrol died. His son, Simon, is looking to produce them again. After all they are the best you can get.

carroll-tools-drum-sander-t116196-30.html

Last time I used mine was yesterday to sand the legs on a small garden table. Easy, quick and good.

So good luck to Simon Carroll

Yep, I like the quick change drum sanders. APTC do poorer versions. These amongst others
- https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-s ... s-ax896201

I believe Richard Findley supplies Rhyno Grip abrasives
- https://turnersworkshop.co.uk/
By HappyPixie
#1296386
I finish most of my items (mostly bowls) with various oils. I found that when I left them to dry on a work surface there could be marks (from the surface) left on my bowl foot. I snapped some lengths of bandsaw blades and cut some perpendicular slots with a thin tenon saw in a rough old plank. A little Araldite in the grooves and then insert the saw blade strips. I turned it upside down and rested in on a flat surface for the epoxy to cure, to ensure the blade teeth all stayed parallel. Now there are only ever a few tiny dots of contact and the bowls don't show any marks.
I made a couple of long strip versions when I did some shelves which I coated with Osmo oil.
Works for me.
Thanks for all your tips.
Steve
BowlFinishTrivet.jpg