The UKW Infill Project
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Racers":2wj9en2c said:
or in Jim's case, he might just be able to pick up an old micrometer going cheap, which could be a nice source of a fine threaded part ready made!
An inch of adjustment should be enough for a few hundred years of use, and he does have one or two other planes, so this one won't get all the wear...
Racers":27v51ufk said:
Some time ago I ended up with several baccy tins of taps. There was a jumble of the common thread forms; BSW, BSF, BA, Unified etc.... plus a number of very fine threads that I could not identify. They could well be in the 40tpi range. I don't know the particulars off the top of my head, but if they might be useful to Jim or anyone else, let me know. I'm not likely to use them. I don't have the corresponding dies though, unfortunately.
jimi43
Established Member
Anyone feel up to designing a new mechanism entirely?
I'm game if you lot are!
I have a "few" micrometers spare...and I have Jim Kingshot's book. Will have to re-read that bit first if I do embark on this route. You do all understand this will extend the build a bit more than a "tad"!!
I'm up for anything with this...it's going to be a one off for sure! 8)
Dave....really generous offer...I may take you up on it...we shall see. Thank you!
Jim
I'm game if you lot are!
I have a "few" micrometers spare...and I have Jim Kingshot's book. Will have to re-read that bit first if I do embark on this route. You do all understand this will extend the build a bit more than a "tad"!!
I'm up for anything with this...it's going to be a one off for sure! 8)
Dave....really generous offer...I may take you up on it...we shall see. Thank you!
Jim
Klaus Kretschmar
Established Member
Jim,
knowing little on infill plane making, my advice might be questionable. If I were you, I'd go without an adjuster for sure. The adjusting of a plane with a hammer is such an easy thing if you have done it a few times, that an adjuster never will be missed. I love my Veritas planes but I find myself more and more often to do the lateral adjustment with a hammer. It's quick and precisely. The depth adjustment can't be done with a hammer if there is an Norris adjuster installed but I doubt that it would get worse without an adjuster by doing it with a hammer.
All of my infills will be adjusted solely with a hammer and it works quick and fine. Just my two cents (or pennies?).
Cheers
Klaus
knowing little on infill plane making, my advice might be questionable. If I were you, I'd go without an adjuster for sure. The adjusting of a plane with a hammer is such an easy thing if you have done it a few times, that an adjuster never will be missed. I love my Veritas planes but I find myself more and more often to do the lateral adjustment with a hammer. It's quick and precisely. The depth adjustment can't be done with a hammer if there is an Norris adjuster installed but I doubt that it would get worse without an adjuster by doing it with a hammer.
All of my infills will be adjusted solely with a hammer and it works quick and fine. Just my two cents (or pennies?).
Cheers
Klaus
jimi43
Established Member
arnoldmason8
Established Member
Hi Everybody----The thread in question is ME thread ( Model Engineer thread). They are a constant pitch of 40 and 32 tpi and they have Whitworth thread form. Taps and Dies are available from model engineers suppliers such as Tracy Tools Ltd.Racers":y5af1c7s said:
Cheers ------Arnold
condeesteso
Established Member
hi J, sorry been away walking the dog (left). Klaus is right of course. Your screw is a bit 'blingy' (we need to chat about 'less can be more') . Richard's work is exemplary.
I was more popular when dog-walking.
I was more popular when dog-walking.
Richard T
Established Member
Thanks for the link Arnold. I notice they do acme taps too 
(Will we ever find a square tap? Was it only Norris who had one?)
That was a long dog walk Douglas ... but I know what Jack Russells are like.
(Will we ever find a square tap? Was it only Norris who had one?)That was a long dog walk Douglas ... but I know what Jack Russells are like.
jimi43
Established Member
Welcome back Douglas...
I was actually only referring to the thread bit..we were on threads for now....the screw head will be as understated as I normally make it.
Will call tomorrow about trying to cut that huge box log with the meat and fish blade to maximise what we get out of it with the possibility of ending up with a piece big enough to make the handle bit. Once I know I can do that I will cut the rear base to fit out of the other box log and go that route otherwise it's plan B and possibly C...both of which are equally beautiful woods.
The bun I can do any time.
I'm still thinking adjuster/no adjuster though and still in the latter camp for now.
Jim
I was actually only referring to the thread bit..we were on threads for now....the screw head will be as understated as I normally make it.
Will call tomorrow about trying to cut that huge box log with the meat and fish blade to maximise what we get out of it with the possibility of ending up with a piece big enough to make the handle bit. Once I know I can do that I will cut the rear base to fit out of the other box log and go that route otherwise it's plan B and possibly C...both of which are equally beautiful woods.
The bun I can do any time.
I'm still thinking adjuster/no adjuster though and still in the latter camp for now.
Jim
rileytoolworks
Established Member
For what it's worth Jim, and in my humble opinion and all that, I say go with 'no adjuster'. A man of your calibre knows how and where to tap to adjust the iron, so the adjuster is redundant. Plus, you could make yourself a nice plane hammer out of scaps of the infill material! Win win I say.
All the best, and good luck. Can't wait to see it come together.
Adam.
All the best, and good luck. Can't wait to see it come together.
Adam.
condeesteso
Established Member
seen the beast in the flesh now... the plane that is. Richard has done a truly amazing job. I confirm it is impossible to see where the dovetails were - absolutely outstanding =D> =D> =D> .
An afternoon cutting box and burr oak (courtesy Mac Timbers) - I liked the bur oak a lot, I like the box but it was looking hard to get the profiles out of the box (which seemed to have around 400 annular rings, by the way... box courtesy Robert at Timberline).
Big discussions re chip-breakers, the mechanics on a b/down plane, fewer components the better, fat blades always better... Say you have a b/u plane at 45 degrees, no chipbreaker. Then why does a b/down plane need one?
I shall let Jim get the discussion going, but for the record (not Record) Richard has made a very fine bit of metal indeed. I feel slightly sorry for Jim because he has to raise that bar. In forum public too :shock:
An afternoon cutting box and burr oak (courtesy Mac Timbers) - I liked the bur oak a lot, I like the box but it was looking hard to get the profiles out of the box (which seemed to have around 400 annular rings, by the way... box courtesy Robert at Timberline).
Big discussions re chip-breakers, the mechanics on a b/down plane, fewer components the better, fat blades always better... Say you have a b/u plane at 45 degrees, no chipbreaker. Then why does a b/down plane need one?
I shall let Jim get the discussion going, but for the record (not Record) Richard has made a very fine bit of metal indeed. I feel slightly sorry for Jim because he has to raise that bar. In forum public too :shock:
Paul Chapman
Established Member
condeesteso":2gkhzfrl said:
It doesn't, provided the blade is a thick one - the thicker the better.
Cheers :wink:
Paul
Richard T
Established Member
Jim has a job indeed.
I know lots of people assume that the "wooden bit" of infill planes is the easy part ... I have just spent the best part of today putting the front bun into Jim's plane's little brother, a smoother I made before with the same shaped Cupid Bow.
Fitting is one thing; I've done that before but today I drilled for the bars to hold it in.
In the drill press, on it's side, in the machine vice, clamped by the sole to the jaw of the vice so as the drill bit would be parallel; I drilled the two holes. Then, with the infill in, drilled the wood through the holes in the steel and spotted the inside of the other side, took the wood out and continued through both holes in the plane now able to suds the drill. All well and good - couldn't have been more accurate. I put it all together and the holes in the infill were about half a hole out from those in the other side. #-o
So I had to cut two short 6mm bars, put them in the side that lined up half way, clamp it all together again and drill through the off holes in the steel, opening up the duff half of the holes in the wood. With a bit of tapering on the ends they came through ok with some persuasion and no lifting of the wood.
I'm sure you will be able to do better with the milling machine Jim but it's been a bit of an off - putter for me as to using sleeves - 1) It wouldn't have been possible and 2) it is quite immovable without them, think of draw pins .... :shock:
I know lots of people assume that the "wooden bit" of infill planes is the easy part ... I have just spent the best part of today putting the front bun into Jim's plane's little brother, a smoother I made before with the same shaped Cupid Bow.
Fitting is one thing; I've done that before but today I drilled for the bars to hold it in.
In the drill press, on it's side, in the machine vice, clamped by the sole to the jaw of the vice so as the drill bit would be parallel; I drilled the two holes. Then, with the infill in, drilled the wood through the holes in the steel and spotted the inside of the other side, took the wood out and continued through both holes in the plane now able to suds the drill. All well and good - couldn't have been more accurate. I put it all together and the holes in the infill were about half a hole out from those in the other side. #-o
So I had to cut two short 6mm bars, put them in the side that lined up half way, clamp it all together again and drill through the off holes in the steel, opening up the duff half of the holes in the wood. With a bit of tapering on the ends they came through ok with some persuasion and no lifting of the wood.
I'm sure you will be able to do better with the milling machine Jim but it's been a bit of an off - putter for me as to using sleeves - 1) It wouldn't have been possible and 2) it is quite immovable without them, think of draw pins .... :shock:
Racers
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Hi, Chaps
If you use Burr Oak how are you going to stop it reacting with the steel?
I made a dovetailed rebate plane using oak as the infill, it had been o/k touchwood, probably because I epoxyed it in as well as riveted it, but it has all ways worried me. I plan on re-filling it at some point.
Pete
If you use Burr Oak how are you going to stop it reacting with the steel?
I made a dovetailed rebate plane using oak as the infill, it had been o/k touchwood, probably because I epoxyed it in as well as riveted it, but it has all ways worried me. I plan on re-filling it at some point.
Pete
arnoldmason8
Established Member
Hi Richard I am not sure that square thread taps are very satisfactory in a production environment. I have seen "one off" home made taps but the problem is providing clearance on the flanks of the threads so they tend to bind up in use so that is one of the reasons why acme threads were developed. Square theads are normaly screwcut on a lathe.Richard T":kznmuk22 said:Thanks for the link Arnold. I notice they do acme taps too
Cheers -----Arnold
bugbear
Established Member
Richard T":2gn9lycj said:Thanks for the link Arnold. I notice they do acme taps too
Hmm. I (rather strongly) suspect the reason no one make taps for square threads is that square threads are not a terrible good idea.
The guys who designed ACME, Whitworth, UNC, BA etc weren't dopes.
BugBear
Richard T
Established Member
I don't think there is any reason for square thread over acme in a lever cap screw other than accurate Norris copying.
Square seems to be used in heavy duty but small applications - clamps, machine vices, machine slides etc; using far more pressure than any right thinking soul would put on a lever cap. Just makes me wonder how the female is done when it is done. Cut on a lathe very well balanced? ... there are some impossible looking tricks illustrated in my Myford books. Would T Norris have been up to that sort of thing in his shed?
Square seems to be used in heavy duty but small applications - clamps, machine vices, machine slides etc; using far more pressure than any right thinking soul would put on a lever cap. Just makes me wonder how the female is done when it is done. Cut on a lathe very well balanced? ... there are some impossible looking tricks illustrated in my Myford books. Would T Norris have been up to that sort of thing in his shed?
richarnold
Established Member
Hi Jim. just to say that you were spot on with your recollection of the story about me being blindfolded.
Over the years i have tried to find a smother that i was happy with, and this included two Norris A5's. One with the 1913 patent, and one with the 1922 version. I hated them both with a passion. as you may remember i ended up creating my own smoother in the end, and this has no adjuster. In fact all the infills in regular use in the workshop are non adjustable, and i have never found this a problem.
Over the years i have tried to find a smother that i was happy with, and this included two Norris A5's. One with the 1913 patent, and one with the 1922 version. I hated them both with a passion. as you may remember i ended up creating my own smoother in the end, and this has no adjuster. In fact all the infills in regular use in the workshop are non adjustable, and i have never found this a problem.
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