Moderators: Random Orbital Bob, nev, CHJ, Noel, Charley

User avatar
Made a start on this years collection, going to be a considerable number of items based on past themes it would appear from the requests so far.

Personal aim for the year is to avoid the rogue pieces of wood that have seemed a good idea in the past, too much time and frustration accrued on that score, and concentrate more time on simplifying construction methods when using up the bits and pieces.

Elm, Ash & Walnut Body, Burr Elm Lid. (100mm dia.)
By Bemused
The woods complement each other very well.

How long does the 'blank' construction take, would you use just a pva adhesive or something special?
User avatar
Bemused wrote:.... would you use just a pva adhesive or something special?

You can use PVA but I find that you can get joint creep after time with wood movement, not enough to be a problem in cabinet work but enough to be felt across the joint boundaries in work such as above.
The bulk of my pieces are now assembled with Cascamite which does not show this problem.
Bemused wrote:How long does the 'blank' construction take

Job to be specific, in order to avoid constant changing of setups I try to do my preparation in batches, usually spend 2-3 hours in any one session.
Cutting enough segments for 4-6 rings and glueing up.
Sorting and preparing base and top blanks to suit.
True up a couple or more of rings and machine top and bottom pieces and glue up immediately before wood moves.

Example, the piece above was trued and glued 2 days ago with another set, both finished turned yesterday and 2 other sets trued and glued.
The second set was finished turned today and the lid for the above made.
Hopefully the next session will complete the other 3 lids but that's dependant on lifes other duties.
By Bemused
Thanks for taking the time to explain, I will look forward to giving this technique a try, just had a browse of the site in your signature which is also helpfull.

By boysie39
What a great start to the year Chas. looking fwd. to many more of your Bits and Bobs.
Always an inspiration thank you .
By boysie39
Chas ,love that shape, when you say rot what way do you stabilise it. Glue?
User avatar
Yes Eugene, Thin CA before final cuts and any areas that show softness in finishing, if there is a risk of CA migration staining surrounding wood I seal surrounds with cellulose sealer to stop CA penetrating.

With well figured wood if you get a bad run of CA on a near enough finished piece a rapid wipe over the surrounding area with a cloth can blend the stain in and not look out of place with natural colour differences.

Don't have fingers in contact with cloth rear though, gets a little warm.
By boysie39
Thanks Chas, have a piece of Elm that sell by date looks to be just around corner,

It's a plank of 22"x 3"x 4' long, guess I'll have to order C/A by the 5lt can.
User avatar
Alternate Eugene is to soak it in thinned PVA, not as hard a result and obviously not an instant drying solution, have done it in the past but now resign anything looking like needing that level of support to the firewood sack. Get enough day to day aggro. without looking for it.
User avatar
By Bodrighy
If it is only mild you can harden the wood with neat sanding sealer but Chas's method is more certain.

I wish I had your skill with all those little pieces you cut Chas especially the ones with the curves sections i the lids. I have access to so much walnut and poplar offcuts that I don't even bother collecting a lot of it which galls me a bit but there is a limit to how much I can keep. All kiln dried as well LOL. Ideal for little boxes such as you make. If you want any let me know and I can get some to you probably.