Tenoning jig for table saw - it's rolling...

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Niki

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Joined
18 May 2006
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Location
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Good day

I know that I'm going to "Get it" (especially from Scrit and Tony) but I'm used to "get it"...don't I... :lol:

Anyway, I'm so pleased with what I did and I would like to share it with you

I had it long time in my head and today I did it (after drilling 400mm walls for vents installation).

For the center part I used two 40mm counter top boards (chipboard covered with Formica) and for the sides 18mm plywood covered with Formica (everything from left-overs).

As Vertical rollers I used iron rollers (just found them in the drawer) but if you are planning to roll it on the table, use the plastic ones.

I planned it, to leave some 0.5~1 mm between the Horizontal rollers and the fence, and then, I tight the rollers to the fence with the "Bolts".

The travel, is limited by your fence length (maybe I'll make longer fence).

It's rolling nicely without any side play and the test results (on the pics) were excellent...now I have to find some project...

And the rest is on the pictures

Regards
niki

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Nice one Niki and yet again cost pence to make, keep them coming we need creative people like yourself on this forum... :wink:
 
I like it Nikki, especially the addition of rollers. Very neat.

Might just mak :wink: e one of those
 
Thank you so much for your kind words

OK Tony
This time I "passed" you without a scratch :)

Now lets see what Scrit will say...:)

Thanks again
niki
 
Don't understand how you keep the fence dead parallel to the blade, do you have to do the wing nuts uo and measure each time?

Dom
 
Thank you

Shultzy
You are correct, I don't watch TV so much but not because of the jigs, it took me 5~6 hours to build and test (and I'm working slowly)

Dom
the fence is aligned to the blade.
The left horizontal rollers are actually "stationary" they don't move left or right just run along the fence.
The right horizontal rollers are "adjustable" but the "adjustment" is only to press the rollers more or less to the right side (and by that the left side) of the fence. In no way they will effect the left rollers position.

Just imagine that the left side of the unit would run directly on the fence and pressed to the fence all the time, it would run on or with the fence line, all the change is that I installed rollers between the unit and the fence.

niki
 
That looks really good Niki - as ever you are an inspiration :lol:

Just two quick thoughts looking at the design. Firstly, I wonder if it wouldn't be better to put a threaded insert into the ply for the adjusting bolt and then putting a locking nut on it. That way, it would be less likely to loosen off in use. Secondly, I think that it might be best to have just one handle in the centre of the jig so that when you push on it you keep both front and back rollers only have one equally in contact with the fence. As you have it, there may be a tendency for the jig to tilt up at one end or the other if you only have one hand on the jig - the other perhaps steadying the workpiece.

Keep up the good work,

Steve
(from a chilly Nairobi :( )
 
Thank you Steve

Yes, you can screw a threaded insert or T-nut and secure it with another nut or wing-nut but, I found that the thread that I made in the plywood is very tight and the bolt cannot move by itself, the best way is to try it and see.

The unit is quite heavy (I think, 4~5 kg but, with my 63 years, I'm not so sure), the rollers are in a good distance and I did not feel any tendency of tilting up.

I made especially two handles. After I finish the set-up (clamping), I'm standing on the right side of the unit with my left hand at the rear handle (close to my body) and the right hand at the front handle and I feel that I'm controlling the unit.
Standing on the right of the work, also keeps me out of the "line of fire" if anything goes wrong

Another reason that I use two handles is for "silly person proof" (or safety proof) for me, that way, I don't have another hand to push into the saw blade (I'm using the same "iron rule" on the circular saw, two hands on the saw till it stops).

I think that the handles number and location is a personal matter and everybody feels different with the location and number of handles.
For example, I was working 10 years with the fence located to the left of the blade (homemade table saw) and I felt very comfortable and safe with it, with the new table saw I must work with the fence on the right of the blade because of it's design and I don't like it "so much"...

By the way, I think that it's much more safe and you have much more control when the work piece and your body are at the left side of the blade, you never have to extend your hand over the spinning blade, guarded of not...and you can pull your hands toward your body (instinctively) if something goes wrong....but the manufacturers are deciding for us...

Best regards
niki
 
Niki

How about boring a larger stopped hole under the outboard roller with no screw in it & putting a compression spring underneath it.
No need for adjustments then.
You'd just need to compress the roller plate to slide it on to the fence.

Chris.
 
Hi Chris

Yes, it can be done but not with my resources

I think that the spring has to be very strong so you (or the blade) will not be able to move the unit accidentally during operation.

Also the roller base should be on hinge (on one side - the side that I have only one screw) so the spring can be functional.

Anyway, that's beyond my abilities and capabilities...

I love the "silly person proof" way...as I made it, it cannot move.
About the "adjustment"; when I say "tight the bolts till there is no side play" I mean "tight" not "TIGHT".
In my limited experience with the jig, I noticed that ones I tight the bolts, I can take the unit out of the fence and re-install it without the need to re-adjust the bolts.

Thanks
niki
 
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