I've found these excellent for lighter sheet materials -
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-PC-20-La ... minate+saw
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bahco-PC-20-La ... minate+saw
Specific Table Saw Advice (I know, I know).
- Thread starter Bramis25
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Sorry, I think I should’ve been more clearer. I wasn’t going to buy full sheets and break them down on a table saw, I have a Timber Merchants nearby and would rather ask them to break the sheets down into a manageable size and then cutting then to the exact dimensions on the TS.
At this point I have a lot to consider, I think possibly a combination of a TS and a Track Saw night be the solution I need.
Thanks for everyone’s help it’s very much appreciated. I’m gonna have to upgrade my Chop/Mitre saw Sion so that will be some fun for another day!
Thanks to all who commented and have a lovely weekend!!
At this point I have a lot to consider, I think possibly a combination of a TS and a Track Saw night be the solution I need.
Thanks for everyone’s help it’s very much appreciated. I’m gonna have to upgrade my Chop/Mitre saw Sion so that will be some fun for another day!
Thanks to all who commented and have a lovely weekend!!
Steve Maskery":2eossbym said:MikeJhn":2eossbym said:
I, on the other hand, couldn't disagree more!
With my track saw I can cut as many panels as I like, setup takes seconds and all the panels will be accurate and identical. I mean identical.
I use a setting gauge. It's the very first thing I published on DVD over a decade ago now and I know from what my customers tell me that it is a very popular gadget. I have one customer in South Africa who makes them as presents for all his woody mates.
You can see me using the setting gauge in my workshop build thread, but I'm afraid I can't direct you to a particular page, it's too long. But look to where we are covering the outside with OSB.
Edit: Here you go
Vested interest reply I see, so what you are saying is setting up a track saw, is quicker and less hassle than repeat cuts on a table saw, consider this, setting up a track saw: measure the piece to be cut, lay track, clamp the track in place then cut, next cut, measure the piece to be cut, lay track, clamp in place then cut, repeat the same set up on each cut, over and over again, alternatively on a table saw: set fence to width required, cut and then cut and then cut, the simplest form of repeat cuts there is, less hassle, less set up time and very accurate.
Mike
Steve Maskery
Established Member
Vested interest yes.
But no measuring of the track position, the setting gauge does that, no clamping of the track, it is self gripping.
If you use a tablesaw you are limited to physical sizes (I can't manhandle an 8x4 sheet on a tablesaw) and you may well have to change the blade for sheet goods. A track saw will (well, mine does) have a suitable blade already installed. I can have the piece cut before I'd even have the old blade off the tablesaw.
It is every bit as accurate and a lot safer and less hassle. I wouldn't do it if it were otherwise, would I?
Try both and then tell me I am wrong.
But no measuring of the track position, the setting gauge does that, no clamping of the track, it is self gripping.
If you use a tablesaw you are limited to physical sizes (I can't manhandle an 8x4 sheet on a tablesaw) and you may well have to change the blade for sheet goods. A track saw will (well, mine does) have a suitable blade already installed. I can have the piece cut before I'd even have the old blade off the tablesaw.
It is every bit as accurate and a lot safer and less hassle. I wouldn't do it if it were otherwise, would I?
Try both and then tell me I am wrong.
I have tried both and IMO you are adding complications to justify your view point, changing the blade can equally apply to the track saw so that is a complication that does not exist, not clamping the track is not an advisable short cut, why else would the manufacturer supply clamps for their saws when cost cutting is at the forefront for any manufacturer these days, I will give you that man handling an 8 x 4 sheet onto a table saw is difficult, but can be done and the results are accurate, I have Arthritis in my hands, shoulders and any other joint you care to mention, but still have managed 8 x 4 sheets of 25mm MDF onto my table saw, with the right infeed and outfeed tables its not that difficult, but in any case this does not apply for the OP.
Mike
Mike
Steve Maskery
Established Member
You've tried both? You've made a setting gauge like mine and found it to be less accurate and slower than using a TS? Well, OK, fair enough. But that surprises me very much.
But each to his own.
Personally I would only break down a sheet with a track saw (even in my workshop an 8' infeed and 8' outfeed would be challenging), and only afterwards, with pieces no bigger than the tablesaw itself, would I use the tablesaw.
I grant you that if you are only ever going to cut up small pieces of MDF then a tracksaw is not suitable, but that is not what they are for, not how they are designed to be used. But you have to get from a full sheet to those smaller pieces in the first place.
I'm not going to get into an argument about this. My original point was that a tracksaw can be every bit as accurate, and consistently so, as a tablesaw, if you do it right. It does not have to be a poorer quality cut.
But each to his own.
Personally I would only break down a sheet with a track saw (even in my workshop an 8' infeed and 8' outfeed would be challenging), and only afterwards, with pieces no bigger than the tablesaw itself, would I use the tablesaw.
I grant you that if you are only ever going to cut up small pieces of MDF then a tracksaw is not suitable, but that is not what they are for, not how they are designed to be used. But you have to get from a full sheet to those smaller pieces in the first place.
I'm not going to get into an argument about this. My original point was that a tracksaw can be every bit as accurate, and consistently so, as a tablesaw, if you do it right. It does not have to be a poorer quality cut.
I'm not arguing, just discussing a view point, but I did not suggest that a track saw was not accurate used correctly, just slower to set up for repeated cuts, I also did not say the cut was of a poorer quality.
Mike
Mike
Steve Maskery
Established Member
OK, not poorer quality in terms of finish, but you did say it was slower to set up and I inferred, even if you didn't mean to imply it, that it was difficult to get identical, accurately sized parts. That's what I am challenging.
Rough cutting into smaller sized pieces before cutting again on a tablesaw has to be slower that just cutting them Right First Time Every Time.
Shall we agree to disagree?
Rough cutting into smaller sized pieces before cutting again on a tablesaw has to be slower that just cutting them Right First Time Every Time.
Shall we agree to disagree?
For repeated cuts on sheets with a track saw, there's an extension of Steve's setting gauge idea which attach to the rail and make for extremely quick, repeatable and accurate setup. There's a few variations made by a few different companies but here's a pic of the Seneca ones to give you the idea:
Most manufacturers also do gizmos that work off the same principle but have bits that slide in under the track to do rips narrower than the width of the rail. For someone without the space (or balls!) for a table saw, these have seen me right for a few years now and are quick to set up and very accurate indeed (you set one to the width you want and then set the matching gauge off of the first one). And, with the track grip stips and the gauges catching off the far edge, you really don't need to clamp so long as your material is fully supported underneath.
Most manufacturers also do gizmos that work off the same principle but have bits that slide in under the track to do rips narrower than the width of the rail. For someone without the space (or balls!) for a table saw, these have seen me right for a few years now and are quick to set up and very accurate indeed (you set one to the width you want and then set the matching gauge off of the first one). And, with the track grip stips and the gauges catching off the far edge, you really don't need to clamp so long as your material is fully supported underneath.
My tuppence worth. I have a table saw which is great but I found that the 8x4 sheets were the proverbial PITA. That's when I bought a plunge saw and never looked back. I've never had a problem with accuracy. And I have never split open my finger nor broken my thumb on the plunge saw 
But, I do prefer to use the table saw when possible with reasonable sized pieces, so a recent job where I have to construct 40+ panel doors I've had cut roughly to size by the supplier so that I can trim on my table saw. There is of course a cost associated, but there you go.
Then again, I guess the table saw makes all the difference. I'm using a Dewalt DWE7491, so not one of the huge Axminster, Sheppach proper jobbies designed I guess to accommodate big panels.
But, I do prefer to use the table saw when possible with reasonable sized pieces, so a recent job where I have to construct 40+ panel doors I've had cut roughly to size by the supplier so that I can trim on my table saw. There is of course a cost associated, but there you go.
Then again, I guess the table saw makes all the difference. I'm using a Dewalt DWE7491, so not one of the huge Axminster, Sheppach proper jobbies designed I guess to accommodate big panels.
memzey
Established Member
IMHO both tools have their place and ultimately which one works better for you depends on your setup as you need space and in/out feed support for the table saw option and jigs etc. for the track saw. Having said that I do find myself agreeing with Mike when I look at how I work. I will rip everything on the table saw and only really use the track saw for cross cuts that are very wide or on very long stock.
Very nice wardrobe doors by the way Mike!
Very nice wardrobe doors by the way Mike!
memzey
Established Member
Very classy!
What’s best is very budget dependant in my opinion.
Much better to have a top quality track saw than a bottom end table saw.
Fixed machines will always be quicker for repetitive work but frankly that’s the only real trade off. I achieve equally accurate results using either track saw or table saw. I do find the tracksaw gives a slightly better cut quality though. The tracksaw also has no learning curve whereas from personal experience, Setting up and using a Tablesaw does have a learning curve to achieve quality straight cuts.
Everyone will have their own preference so the op really needs to have a go with both and see what they get on with best.
Much better to have a top quality track saw than a bottom end table saw.
Fixed machines will always be quicker for repetitive work but frankly that’s the only real trade off. I achieve equally accurate results using either track saw or table saw. I do find the tracksaw gives a slightly better cut quality though. The tracksaw also has no learning curve whereas from personal experience, Setting up and using a Tablesaw does have a learning curve to achieve quality straight cuts.
Everyone will have their own preference so the op really needs to have a go with both and see what they get on with best.
THanks guys!
I've been very busy finishing the garden room and finally got electrics in yesterday, very tired but looking forward to filling it with tools.
I understand the argument for both and ultimately I will find out in due course.
I will keep very one posted on what I decide but agree it's all relative to how people want to work I guess.
Thanks again!
I've been very busy finishing the garden room and finally got electrics in yesterday, very tired but looking forward to filling it with tools.
I understand the argument for both and ultimately I will find out in due course.
I will keep very one posted on what I decide but agree it's all relative to how people want to work I guess.
Thanks again!
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