Shaker Doors

[SteveF]

I have a pair of shaker style doors to build
I have the tongue and groove router bits to complete the task
however
the infil panel is 1mm chromed metal perforated (radio cover style)
so if I route the door 6mm groove how would you "pack" out the 5mm difference?
this is unpainted oak

Steve

 

[thetyreman]

.

 

[Adam9453]

There are numerous ways you can get around this issue but you could just insert solid oak strips to pack out the groove, personally I would fit 2.5mm thick strips each side of the mesh to keep the mesh centred within the door. Alternatively if you’re only bothered about the doors having a show face then you could just pack the back, you could offset the groove in the rails and stiles to keep the mesh centred with all the packing to the reverse.
Of course you could also celebrate the edge more by making an l shaped section of beading of which one leg of the ‘L’ would fit into the groove and the other leg would rest tightly against the rail and/or stile.
Another method would be to buy a 1mm router cutter and solve the issue by making the groove 1mm to match the mesh thickness.
What’s your preference?

 

[Just4Fun]

I would probably tackle this by using a saw kerf rather than a routed groove. Routing a 6mm groove to hold a 1mm panel seems an odd approach to me.

 

[MattRoberts]

I would probably tackle this by using a saw kerf rather than a routed groove. Routing a 6mm groove to hold a 1mm panel seems an odd approach to me.

The groove is used to join the rails and stiles of the door, as well as to seat the panel

 

[Steve Maskery]

I know you have bought the cutter, but I think that a better approach would be to make a M&T frame with a rebate. That way you could just fit the panel in with the equivalent of glazing beads.

 

[basssound]

I'd buy a 1mm groove bit for the router, pass this through the styles and rials then swap to the 6mm and only route out the width of the tenon, squaring off the groove with a chisel.
This should leave you with 6mm the width of the joint, 1mm the width of the infill and then the 6mm the width of the other joint.

 

[tomatwark]

Rebate and bead it.

This means you can apply any finish before the panel goes in.

 

[dzj]

Use the cutter you have. From the inside secure the panel with some kind of 'hockey stick' glazing bead.

 

[SteveF]

hi guys

thanks for options
hockey stick sounds a good plan
a saw kerf would still be 3mm
1mm router bit sounds fragile

Steve