Repairing a table

[jon_c]

We have a somewhat battered antique table. One end wobbles, such that the top moves side to side as the top and legs go out of square.

There is a drawer at the wobbly end. A thin bar runs under the drawer and two stubs are present either side. Hopefully the images attached explain better.

Any ideas for stopping the wobble? Should I still up through the thin crossbar into the stubs and dowel it? Add an angle bracket between the legs and stubs/crossbar? The stubs are not attached to the crossbar, though I can't tell if they ever were.

 

[Orraloon]

Looks to me that the drawer opening has not left enough strength in the apron and the sideways forces have caused the wood to crack off near the M&T joints. Best repair would be a new apron and forget the drawer. There also looks to be worm holes so is it worth fixing.
Regards
John

 

[MikeG.]

Yeah, that's worth fixing. It's gorgeous.

If the top will come off I'd be tempted to take the whole thing apart and put it back together again. The fix would present itself then. Otherwise, how about something like this screwed into the corners:

 

[Hornbeam]

I wonder if this table has been lowered at some time in the past as there is no upper rail/kickers tying the top of the legs. You could fit the additional top rail and retain a thinner drawer. The design at present is relying on a fairly thin tennon to prevent racking. An additional rail at the top will create a very strong box structure
Ian

 

[jon_c]

Thanks everyone.

It's a weird old table. Mike, the top is nailed on, so would probably be destroyed trying to remove it. The whole thing has decades of woodworm holes giving it a lot of "character". It seems solid enough except for that end.

You may be right Ian that it was taller. It definitely seems to have been chopped about a bit.

Looks to me that the drawer opening has not left enough strength in the apron and the sideways forces have caused the wood to crack off near the M&T joints. Best repair would be a new apron and forget the drawer. There also looks to be worm holes so is it worth fixing.
Regards
John

I'm sure you are right about why it wobbles. I don't know how I could replace the apron without ruining the character.

Is there any unobtrusive way to reinforce the apron?

Mike, do you mean like an angle iron corner bracket?

I know there are rules about screening table tops and things to allow for expansion.

 

[jon_c]

There's very little clearance above the drawer for anything. Maybe 7 or 8 mm. I could conceivably get a flat piece of metal across the top, but not sure if it would be useful or how I would fix it.

 

[MikeG.]

.........Mike, do you mean like an angle iron corner bracket?.........

Well, I'd weld something up that was a bit bigger and beefier, I think.

 

[jon_c]

Well, I'd weld something up that was a bit bigger and beefier, I think.

I can't weld something myself, but may know someone who can or find something that would work.

Where would you be fixing something like that? Under the apron fixing the leg to the apron?

 

[MikeG.]

No, right in the corner, in the junction of the table top, the leg, and the (truncated) apron. It would have to be sized to not obstruct the drawer opening, and if you wanted to be really fussy you'd do slotted holes for the table top furthest away from the corner. Obviously re-make the joints etc first, and get it clamped up tight before fitting this. I'd do both sides of the drawer (ie both legs that end of the table), even if the other leg is still OK. If you're going to go to the trouble of sorting one you may as well make sure you don't ever have to come back to the job, I reckon.

 

[jon_c]

No, right in the corner, in the junction of the table top, the leg, and the (truncated) apron. It would have to be sized to not obstruct the drawer opening, and if you wanted to be really fussy you'd do slotted holes for the table top furthest away from the corner. Obviously re-make the joints etc first, and get it clamped up tight before fitting this. I'd do both sides of the drawer (ie both legs that end of the table), even if the other leg is still OK. If you're going to go to the trouble of sorting one you may as well make sure you don't ever have to come back to the job, I reckon.

Ok, thanks. I'll see what I can get that will fit. It's quite a constrained space!

 

[MusicMan]

+1 for MikeG's comments, a bracket like that will be useful given the lack of an apron. Though if the top is nailed on, there's not a lot of mileage in making expansion slots for the screws.

But study it carefully first and find out why it wobbles. What bits are loose? Is it the glue in the mortices? Or is it the fit of the dowels? Sometimes dowels can get loose due to wear, sometimes going into a hourglass shape. If you can't disassemble the lot, it may be worth trying to knock the dowels out and replace them either with new or with oversize dowels.

Keith

 

[Orraloon]

I guess if the top has been nailed on then table construction rules are now a thing of the past and some brackets will be better than it is now. Without taking the top off its about all you can do. Just out of interest could you put up some pics of the drawer.
Regards
John

 

[MikeG.]

Careful with the "nails = no expansion" thing. Nails do allow some movement: it's the reason ledged and boarded doors work. They're nailed, and the nails themselves are flexible, especially when compared to screws. Put a nail in a vice and you'll find you can bend it with your fingers. That can't be said of screws. Personally, I would slot the screw holes for those screws going into the underside of the top away from the edge.

Having said all that, in old wood like this and with central heating, it's unlikely there will be much seasonal movement at all.