Moderators: Random Orbital Bob, nev, Charley, CHJ, Noel

 Reply
By swagman
#1207858
Work on refurbishing this traditional moving fillister plane has been completed.

Reglued the boxwood wear strips;
Reworked the irons bed to flat;
Flattened the sole of the plane;
Shortened the wedge length at the toe by 1/4";
Resharpened the iron and nicker;
Restored the patina to the worked areas of bare wood;
2 coats of wax;
Tested the planes performance;

Image

Image

Image

Image

The planesmaker is Griffiths-Norwich. The following covers their history.
https://www.sgriff.com/planes/griffiths ... ndproducts
By swagman
#1207934
Woody; I used a high concentration of Van Dyke Crystals. The higher the concentration of crystals within the hot water dissolve, the darker the tint. Apply to a test wood to fine tune the concentrate. As for the depth stop, you will need to remove the adjuster assembly to identify where its binding.

Stewie;
By swagman
#1208093
Woody; I removed the adjuster assembly on my moving fillister plane to give you an idea of their design. If the top mounting screws are steel their likely rusted in by now and may give you some fun trying to remove them. 1 of the screws broke on me as I was removing them. I managed to dig out the broken thread and epoxy filled the original holes to allow me to replace them with 7/8" brass wood screws.

Stewie;

Image
By D_W
#1209259
On a binge, stewie? I went on one last year thinking I might like to make a few of the type (i'd still like to, but they're cheaper in whole planes than the hardware is, so that sort of squashes that), and bought 7 of them (only still have two - even two is an indulgence).
User avatar
By AndyT
#1209260
Using brass screws is nice - it will give a clear signal that work has been done on the plane and that it's not in original condition, even if the blending in of new wood surfaces is not noticeable to a future owner.