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By bugbear
doctor john have found my in the states it is darn near impossible to find souls that love, or understand. record planes.....the best made in my estimation....thanks for the sharpening tips on the 2506...i am gearing up on home made jambs and will need the little pipper soon.....thanks to you all...

Oh, I don't know. There are some good people on the OLDTOOLS list that tend to appreciate and enjoy good tools, regardless of country or company of manufacture.

By doctor john
.....good mornin' bugbear....i guess i hang around in the wrong circles.....i have been told stanley is the experience is otherwise......i will be more conscious of my choice of circles in the future!....thanks for the pat up the side of the head...i needed it.....jj
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By jimi43
doctor john wrote:.....good mornin' bugbear....i guess i hang around in the wrong circles.....i have been told stanley is the experience is otherwise......i will be more conscious of my choice of circles in the future!....thanks for the pat up the side of the head...i needed it.....jj

Old pre-WWII Stanleys are as good as the later Records and I love some of the older ones...the SLR Co ones for they are not all bad and due respect has to be given to Leonard for the design.

I totally agree that if you compare the like for like...i.e. a newer Stanley with a Record then the Record wins hands down on build quality and finish.

Welcome to the UKW by the way.... :wink:

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By Eric The Viking
I finally got round to fettling my 2506 last week-end.

Given the discussion about sharpening earlier in the year, I thought I might post some details:

  • The right-facing blade has a bed angle of 9.5 degrees. The left one has a bed angle of 13.5 degrees.
  • The skew angle on the plane is 30 degrees (the two blades make an equilateral triangle with the nose).
  • I sharpened both to around 40 degrees of single bevel, 29 degrees of skew.

Works a treat.

I also cut about 1/4" off the screwthread used to attach the handle. The end in the plane is probably 3/16" Whit, but the other end is a woodscrew thread, and it's the woodscrew I cut off. This is because it finished very close to the end of the knob. Losing that much should prevent it splitting, and now allows the knob to fit down onto the plane better.

Might be useful to someone.


PS: I used an Axminster "de-luxe" honing guide - it's basically a broad plate on top of a wide roller, with a rubber padded clamp. It looks ideal for skewed tools, as you can easily scratch the surface with angled lines, or draw them in marker pen, and it doesn't wobble. No good for Bailey plane irons though as a camber would be tricky!
By jim_hanna
A resurrection of an old thread. However there is so little information available online about the 2506 that it seems better to keep it together.
I won a 2506 (with the fence) on ebay recently and searched for sharpening information. I found this thread, a note on Matthew’s blog (of workshop heaven) about sharpening cutters in a Quangsheng 2506 by inverting them and using the body as a holder and a thread on an Australian bulletin board which focused mainly on grinding off the projecting corner of a blade when it extended below the skate.


My example seems to have been used mainly in right hand mode, the blade on that side had an interesting collection of bevels and the outside corner had been nicked off. The left seemed almost unused.
There is a number stamped on the top of the front nose. I thought at first it was a school or workplace mark. Then I removed the handle and found the same mark. Probably manufacturing marks so that the body and nose are machined together and must remain related afterwards.

As best I can measure it the skew angle of the blades on the base on mine is 31 degrees, certainly not 30. The bevel angle on the blades themselves is a shade over 30 degrees, certainly not 35 degrees.
I would be dubious about trying to mark and clamp a blade at a precise angle in a honing guide. Repeatability would be a big problem for me.
I looked at Matthew’s idea about inverting and swapping sides with the blades and using the body of the plane itself to hold the blades. Easy enough to see that this would work with the short blades on the Quangsheng which presumably are at the same bed angle.
It seems wrong that this would work on a Record with the longer overlapping blades at different bed angles.
Inverting and extending the blades a small distance I looked at the alignment.

Right way up.

Right way up the edges of the blades are aligned with the front of the plane. I drew a square line from the edge of a board, extended the inverted blades and put the side of the plane against the line. The blades still looked to be in the same alignment. While the different bed angles for the blades would introduce some error it “might” be small enough to be insignificant.

I wasn’t brave enough to try this immediately but it looks as though it might work. Shown held in an Axi honing guide, to hand when I was taking the pic, but the 2506 does fit an Eclipse type guide which I would have used in practice.

Then I had a different idea.
I have another Stanley honing guide which clamped the blade easily and has a convenient guide to set a 30 degree angle but trying to mark and then set a 31° skew alignment would be the problem.
stanley2.jpg (12.23 KiB) Viewed 2592 times

Then it occurred to me to use the body to set the alignment. The front face of the honing guide can be used against the front of the plane body and the machined bed in the plane body then used to accurately set the skew angle.

This worked very well, I was able to get a single 30° cutting bevel at the correct skew angle. I was able to cut full width thin shavings, admittedly only in pine so far, but the plane has been made useable and further sharpenings will be repeatable.

Hope this is of some help to others.

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By Eric The Viking
I just clamp the blades in the Axi guide you show. It works for me.

Regarding bevel angles: at best approximate - it doesn't really matter, I think - these planes are metal-guided skew chisels really. The detatchable nose is only for alignment. It doesn't serve to change the 'mouth' as in a Bailey plane.

I'd guess someone took the corner off to keep fingers intact. It's so tempting to set both sides, "just in case", then end up sucking whichever finger you were careless with!

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By Derek Cohen (Perth, Oz)
A good many years ago now, before Veritas brought out a skew jig for their Mk II honing guide, I wrote up a few methods for honing skew blades. This included the Stanley #79. ... %20II.html

These days what I prefer is to hollow grind the bevel, and then simply freehand on the hollow. Quick and easy.

Regards from Perth