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By Ttrees
#1207347
Hi again
I only really got started this morning as I had to find plate big enough, and luckily I found some 4mm
plate, so I didn't have to make this out of that big 8mm plate, and grind it down :shock:
This plane is going to be 11/16" wide, so the thicker steel would have made too skinny an infil/wedge.
It would probably present clearence problems getting that iron flipped over to sit on the bed ,
I wonder if anyone relieved that area on any kind of plane? ...not happening on this one, so I'll try and stick to
the thread.
The thicker 8mm stock is for the sole.
Those 5" thin cutting discs from Aldi are useless, messy, and inaccurate, the regular cheapo slightly thinner discs are way way better.
Thats most of the messy part done, and something to do now in the metalwork shed.

I dont think I'm going to file another dovetail angle to the bottom, and pein the second set of dovetails, as it seems they will be solid.
I still have to see a good demonstration of that, because it seems a bit of an art to me.
I never had a tree trunk and a block of steel to pound on before though :D

Does anyone know the traditional way the bridge above the wedge is constructed on dovetail planes ?

Specs on the plane, at least the way I hope it turns out
George Miller inspired plane with some changes...I drew the best representation I could, with the changes I made,
which were...
Reducing it one inch in length.
Reducing its height by 1/8"
Reducing it to 11/16" in width.
Reducing the bed angle from 20 to 18.5 degrees.

Thanks for reading folks
Tom
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