Chest of Drawers wip - slow hand tool project

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AndyT

Established Member
Joined
24 Jul 2007
Messages
12,028
Reaction score
538
Location
Bristol
I think it's time to start on something challenging again. Ages ago now, I had a lot of fun stretching my skills making a chair that turned into steps, but I've only made little quick things since. Also, I have an accumulation of wood that needs to be used.

So the idea is to make a chest of drawers. This will replace a grotty little plywood bedside cupboard which has been 'good enough' for years, so it's a small scale job to fit in the space available. However, I want it to have proper trad construction - all proper wood, proper joints and all by hand, so it's quite labour-intensive. I've made some tables and I've made dovetailed boxes but I've never done full-on drawers with thin sides, solid bottoms and all the nice details.

This is the design:

IMG_3484_zps6363a837.jpg


- and I'm imagining internal runners and nicely dovetailed drawers. There might be five drawers or maybe six - I want them to be quite shallow - though that does mean quite a lot of joints to make.

Before I draw a more detailed design with all the sizes thought about, I need to make sure that I do have enough suitable wood. After much rummaging and restacking, I think I do.

20150128_121459_zps94ca68b2.jpg


This is most of it, roughly allocated to be from left to right, internal runners etc; main cabinet sides; drawer fronts, sides, and backs. I can't be sure that the wood is right until I've done a proper drawing but there is no point in drawing something bigger than the timber I have available.

I've another idea for the top, so let's check that first.

I bought these little bits of Yew about four years ago at the Westonbirt Treefest show. They will be the only wood that hasn't been recycled.

20150128_121517_zpsa8b157ae.jpg


They are fairly thick but not quite straight enough to glue together as a solid top, so it's time to get ripping. I've still not made any proper sawing trestles, but my workshop floor is so wavy and bumpy they might not work very well, so meanwhile an old Workmate will do.

20150128_142145_zps7169c7b4.jpg


Here I am just getting rid of the contrasting sapwood and the bark, to leave as much straight sided wood as I can.
The first one works best as two pieces meeting at the kink in the middle, but this one can just cut straight through:

20150128_140236_zps6074bd09.jpg


This looks enough for the top, but I need to be sure I can get a nice enough surface on what is really quite difficult wood.

20150128_151659_zps52e4c0e9.jpg


Let's do some more planing: I need to get one side looking decent, to prove that I can, and to get an idea of what the finished thickness can be, though what you see here is not the finished surface, despite the appearance of a smoothing plane.

20150128_153531_zpsea086a6f.jpg


20150129_150353_zps73165ed4.jpg


20150129_153223_zps1f63fd55.jpg


That's getting there. I've not used yew before. It gives a lovely smooth surface but is very hard.

That's the first instalment - a few seconds for you to read, but a long morning's workout for me!
 
I do enjoy seeing stuff made with nice old hand tools. Let me know if you want to borrow my domino!
 
Woodmonkey":1tbpn4r3 said:
I do enjoy seeing stuff made with nice old hand tools. Let me know if you want to borrow my domino!

That's a very generous offer but I think I will manage without out one just this once... :)
 
excellent andyT, i love all your posts. the ladder chair was awesome and im sure this will be too.
TT
 
I've spent a lot more time looking at the wood that I've got put by, thinking about the proportions of the chest of drawers, and doing some experiments.

I don't have enough thin plywood for the drawer bottoms but not very long ago I was walking through central Bristol with a like-minded friend when we spotted some nice bits of cedar cladding in a skip. We both agreed that it was far too good to throw away, so carried it home.

This is the stuff:
IMG_3462_zpsa58e062a.jpg


It's beautifully straight and clear and I reckon it will deep rip into some classic drawer bottoms. I've never done this before, so let's have a go!

IMG_3451_zpsdcf68c93.jpg


Hmm, not too bad; but a bit rough where I turned round to start from the other end to finish the cut.

IMG_3452_zpsebeb7825.jpg


However, it planes beautifully and is soon smooth, and the workshop smells pleasantly of pencils:

IMG_3457_zpsb790af8b.jpg


For the second board, I switched to a slightly coarser saw and it was quicker and easier

IMG_3464_zpsc7863232.jpg


- there's plenty of margin for error as it's about 3/4" thick and I'm initially aiming at a thick 1/4"

IMG_3465_zps85d3e04d.jpg


IMG_3459_zpsb3836800.jpg


I may well take these boards down thinner later; at the moment I just want to prove that I can get enough pieces to do the job - it looks like I can: each of these boards will cut into three pieces which will be enough for one drawer, so I can do six drawers if I need to - but the finished chest will probably have five.

IMG_3474_zpscd24cee3.jpg


I was pleased at how easy that was to do. There will be quite a lot of physical work in this project - I reckon it's better value than joining a gym!
 
That must be a very satisfying feeling Andy, getting those lovely boards hand resawn.
Well done sir =D>
 
Looks good.
It might be easier, and you might have less waste, if you cut to length first, before any ripping or planing.
 
AndyT":3gqjij30 said:
... rip into some classic drawer bottoms. I've never done this before, so let's have a go!

IMG_3451_zpsdcf68c93.jpg


Hmm, not too bad; but a bit rough where I turned round to start from the other end to finish the cut.

I've ripped like that, and it makes my shoulder hurt; its too high in the air (at least for me).

Does anyone know what the "old" workholding method was for this task? The big cutting was done over a saw pit, ripping to width
is shown in several text books (and is fairly obvious anyway...) but what's the "textbook" technique for small scale
ripping to thickness?

BugBear
 
Jacob":6kbm3zs3 said:
Looks good.
It might be easier, and you might have less waste, if you cut to length first, before any ripping or planing.
My old woodwork teacher (I went to school when woodwork and metalwork were taught) used the same two phrase's over and over again, measure twice cut once and leave your wood as long as you can as long as you can.

Baldhead
 
bugbear":18nfn4ip said:
AndyT":18nfn4ip said:
... rip into some classic drawer bottoms. I've never done this before, so let's have a go!

IMG_3451_zpsdcf68c93.jpg


Hmm, not too bad; but a bit rough where I turned round to start from the other end to finish the cut.

I've ripped like that, and it makes my shoulder hurt; its too high in the air (at least for me).

Does anyone know what the "old" workholding method was for this task? The big cutting was done over a saw pit, ripping to width
is shown in several text books (and is fairly obvious anyway...) but what's the "textbook" technique for small scale
ripping to thickness?

BugBear
Looks difficult in the position shown in the photo. Ripping a board like that is a bit unusual but if it were me I'd want it cramped vertically at the right hand very end of the bench so that I'd have plenty of room. I haven't got a vice there so maybe thats something to think about. Or in an end vice, which I also do not have.
 
Baldhead":3hc33ccx said:
Jacob":3hc33ccx said:
Looks good.
It might be easier, and you might have less waste, if you cut to length first, before any ripping or planing.
My old woodwork teacher (I went to school when woodwork and metalwork were taught) used the same two phrase's over and over again, measure twice cut once and leave your wood as long as you can as long as you can.

Baldhead
Yes but easily misinterpreted.
I say it as; always cut to length (close to desired finished size) for longest components first, from shortest pieces available. But no ripping or planing until cut to length (though very short lengths could be combined in one piece of course).
 
Hmm... best way to do this deep rip cut. Interesting question and maybe an example of how so many ww books cover the same ground as each other but leave things out.

The only useful picture I can think of is this one from Ellis Modern Practical Joinery. It's of cutting tenons but if you just imagine a bit more wood it's similar.
20150216_092505_zpsgjgjnioo.jpg
[/url]

Some other observations:

What really really matters is having the wood rock solid. For me, with my bench screwed down, holding it in the vice like this works. It's quick and easy to adjust up or down in the vice so that the working height is comfortable. (The earlier rip cuts, bearing down on the Workmate, were harder because of the relative wobbliness.)
Keeping the pieces full length makes it easy to grip and adjust the height. I think that if I cut these into three first, I would struggle to hold them as half of the wood I need to cut would be locked up in the vice.

I can't work off the end of the bench as there is no room.

Overall, I was pleased how relatively easy and quick it was.
Under 10 minutes on the second and third cuts.

And thanks all for the enthusiasm - I may need it if this project slumps into being too much work or goes too badly wrong.

I'm off to the workshop to do the next instalment.
 
AndyT":13q086t9 said:
Hmm... best way to do this deep rip cut. Interesting question and maybe an example of how so many ww books cover the same ground as each other but leave things out.

The only useful picture I can think of is this one from Ellis Modern Practical Joinery. It's of cutting tenons but if you just imagine a bit more wood it's similar.


I hate to disagree, but...

I don't think that's similar at all; that is a joint cutting operation, for which precision and visibility are the priorities. A high position (think Moxon vise!!) makes sense.

Ripping is just work, and lots of it. body position and ergonomics become the new prioirities.

I certainly agree on the importance of having the workpiece solidly held.

BugBear
 
AndyT":2gecw4pp said:
20150216_092505_zpsgjgjnioo.jpg
[/url]

I'm off to the workshop to do the next instalment.

Hope you're not copying the attire Andy? He'd soon get a lather on ripping, wearing all that clobber. I bet there's a shirt and tie there somewhere too!
 
Graham Orm":2pfzz2f8 said:
Hope you're not copying the attire Andy? He'd soon get a lather on ripping, wearing all that clobber. I bet there's a shirt and tie there somewhere too!

Graham! Have you not seen my avatar picture? I'll have you know it was taken from the life, with one of those newfangled Daguerreotype contraptions! :wink:
 
Back
Top