Oak front doors and a window.

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Bradshaw Joinery

Established Member
Joined
13 Mar 2012
Messages
369
Reaction score
0
Location
Youtube
Hello chaps, i have been really busy lately trying to move my workshop so i have been making preparations for that, hopefully share some pictures for you once im finished!

Here is a couple of oak jobs i am on the verge of completing, they are european oak construction, with teknos spray applied cypress gloss topcoat. The doors are sealed inside and out on the grooves on the outer face, and insulated with 1" ecotherm boarding. Rebated multipoint lock and double draught sealed. There is a stainless strip int he cill for the seals in the doors to hit, so the cill/seals cannot get damaged underfoot, and a continous seal through the rebate, that intercepts the bottom and top seals so there are no gaps when the doors close. No even at the bottom where the rebates meet.
IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/dm2vb8.jpg[/IMG]
28i3gcl.jpg

28i3gcl.jpg

2pt5t3a.jpg

1418mww.jpg

15ohyjs.jpg

2a5gpyo.jpg
 
Those doors are really nice Olly!!

Are those solid raised panels that then have the ecotherm board sandwiched between on both sides? Or veneered panels? Hard to make out.
 
Thankyou for the kind words guys, i will get some more pictures when i fit them, im not fitting the window though.

There is solid oak boards to both sides of the doors.
 
Lovely work.

How did you make the caulk (Teknos?) disappear? Does it dry transparent or did the finish colour it or....?
 
Mike.S":y6hbqopt said:
Lovely work.

How did you make the caulk (Teknos?) disappear? Does it dry transparent or did the finish colour it or....?
Its on the back of the boards ;)
Nice looking doors and window !- my only niggle would be the position of the window stay but thats down to personal preference I guess.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk
 
the sealant is called v groove sealant, this one is kodrin (the sikkens equvalent) and is very good stuff. it dries translucent, and accepts the waterbased coatings over the top. its also incredibly strong and stretchy. takes a lot to break/snap it. it was applied to both sides of the boards, just less liberally to the outside as i wanted it to be as invisible as possible.

im always in two minds with decisions like where to put the stay, but i quite like the window to open 90 degrees. ideally wanted a bigger stay....
 
Haha thanks Mark, got the handles fitted today! Oh and the doors too. Managed to find a nice little centre keep for the bolts on both doors, that works well and is easy clean!

1hdpav.jpg

j76u1e.jpg

33b2zut.jpg

vxn5p5.jpg

23m54ix.jpg



Edited:

A short video showing the locking mechanism.

http://youtu.be/H2jN_kbguXg
 
hi, nice job...out of interest who's 3 point lock system did you use..? and what finish did you use on the doors ?.

Regards Mick
 
woodnovice":21q69wem said:
hi, nice job...out of interest who's 3 point lock system did you use..? and what finish did you use on the doors ?.

Regards Mick

Hi Mick. the locks are ERA Ones, Bought as a kit from Marches Ironmongery, i then changed the gearbox on their lock kit to use the vectis gearbox, so it uses the more secure 5lever lock, not a euro cylinder.

johnfarris":21q69wem said:
Nice looking doors sir. Could you tell me why the height on the bottom rail is not bigger than the top rail?

Hi John,

The bottom rail in the door was around 10" tall, its just the boarding you see on the outside, and there all the same thickness top to bottom. If you look at the picture with the white sealant im gunning round, it gives you an idea of the rail size.
 
Hi John,

The bottom rail in the door was around 10" tall, its just the boarding you see on the outside, and there all the same thickness top to bottom. If you look at the picture with the white sealant im gunning round, it gives you an idea of the rail size.

I see very clever. Could you tell me what the thickness of the rails were & the the thickness of the panelling? Also how did you fix the frame around the window opening on the door?
 
Yeha

The rails were a smidge over 25mm, and the boards 16mm each side.

the outside side of the frame was stuck in with a sealant, ms polymer, (masked all edges before hand), and the inside pinned in place. The Butyl holds the glass on the outside, with a capping bead seal, again masked and pushed into the joint, and ht einside has a foam tape between glass and bead.
 
Nice job on the doors they look great in situ as well, I think the ironmongery is in keeping with the style and look good. Thanks for tip on the sealant, hadn't come across that one and will I think use it on some double Oak doors I have made for my property renovation. Will post some pictures for you to see and no doubt comment!! cheers John
 
Back
Top