Second attempt!
- Thread starter HeliGav
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CHJ
Established Member
For the basic finishing then used with the correct stiffness mop it speeds things up considerably, and in some instances abrades away surface defects that you most likely will not remove with white diamond.Mike Bremner":3nng8820 said:
A bit like starting your sanding with 320-400 grit, you may get there in the end but whose got the time.
Remember 'white diamond' is tin oxide, just a bit coarser than rouge.
There are instances with pale woods and an already fine surface when using the white diamond alone is easy enough, all depends on you turnings and style of finishing.
nicguthrie
Established Member
Awesome thanks. I didn't see the link after the photo, it didn't work/show up properly on my mobile where I've been reading this.
Is there any final finishes that the Tripoli or white diamond compounds might interfere with? Or are these methods only actually suited for use when using wax as a final finish?
Certainly looks awesome once it's done. I was thinking of investing in the reasonably cheap Axminster buffing set for wood. http://www.axminster.co.uk/polishing-kit-for-wood Would that set me up for a good start, do you reckon? I know I'd still need to find some of this white diamond compound, as the only compound I have is the flexcut gold that I use for stropping my chisels as a final polish.
Thanks guys, I'll let you know with pictures when I get sorted!
Nic.
Is there any final finishes that the Tripoli or white diamond compounds might interfere with? Or are these methods only actually suited for use when using wax as a final finish?
Certainly looks awesome once it's done. I was thinking of investing in the reasonably cheap Axminster buffing set for wood. http://www.axminster.co.uk/polishing-kit-for-wood Would that set me up for a good start, do you reckon? I know I'd still need to find some of this white diamond compound, as the only compound I have is the flexcut gold that I use for stropping my chisels as a final polish.
Thanks guys, I'll let you know with pictures when I get sorted!
Nic.
CHJ
Established Member
Mike Bremner":1j4asgwj said:
Yes, when buffing you are normally only polishing the hard sealed surface (some dense woods can be buffed without sealing but that's not the norm.) Therefore you are not interfering with the coloured surface.
I'm not saying that you can't damage a stained surface but that would only be because your sealing was not robust enough and/or you have cut right through it.
KimG is a great exponent of the art.
nicguthrie
Established Member
Oh, my bad. Read that linked thread through in full and realised that it's a particular recommended buffing system by chestnut, not just any old wheels.
I'll make that my investment for the benefit of a shinier future then. Stiles and Bates, here I come!
Nic.
I'll make that my investment for the benefit of a shinier future then. Stiles and Bates, here I come!
Nic.
Thanks Chas! 
I will endeavour to explain my process a little. First off, don't attempt to buff any coloured item that has not been thoroughly sealed with either a lacquer or possibly a polymerizing oil such as finishing oil, the colour will transfer straight to the buffing wheel and can be a devil to remove (guess how I know!) Also if you don't remove it, the very next item you buff, it will come right off and colour that, but not in a pretty way.
So, you have coloured your piece and are ready to seal, with oil it will just be a case of wiping on several coats (three or four) and leaving a good 24 hours between coats (you can denib between coats for a better finish, but do it with care, yellow nyweb should be plenty) once the final coat has been applied, give it a good few days to properly harden, then starting with the tripoli wheel, and a light pressure, work your way round the item, checking the finish against a light for blemishes, if you get a stubborn bit, don't try pressing harder, or leaving it rub the same spot for too long, this will only heat the surface and destroy the finish (I found out by the same method as before).
Just keep using light brief touches to the wheel till it smooths out, if that fails, finish the rest of it and apply another coat or patch that bit, then repeat.
Follow that with the DW wheel, the lighter you keep your touch, the better the finish.
Finally, use the wax wheel, apply wax if you wish, or just use it to get that last bit of gloss going and remove any smeary looking patches.
With Lacquer I apply 2 coats of rattle can sealer (Chestnuts acrylic) and three or four coats of gloss lacquer, leaving each coat to dry thoroughly and denibbing in between each, the final coat will look stunning when wet, but dries to a light dimple pattern, this is a bit irritating and you have two options, A: sand the surface smooth with 400 grit (600 if you have wet and dry, use it wet or it will clog and cause drag marks) then dry it and buff out the scratches with the tripoli using the same technique as before right to finishing, remembering always to keep you touch light, but also keep a good grip on the item to avoid it being snatched out of your hand and flung around the workshop at near light speed, acquiring many dents on the way (tediously, this lesson was repeated several times)
B: Just go for the dimples with tripoli from the start.
The main thing with the lacquer is to really give it time to harden before buffing, two or three days in a warm dry environment will mean it fully cures (longer if using Melamine)
The advantage being, it takes a better gloss, is less prone to dragging and in the long run is less work.
You can also see a video of the buffing wheels being used on my website, just go to the videos link at the top and you will find it.
Oops! It's not on the site, it's here
I will endeavour to explain my process a little. First off, don't attempt to buff any coloured item that has not been thoroughly sealed with either a lacquer or possibly a polymerizing oil such as finishing oil, the colour will transfer straight to the buffing wheel and can be a devil to remove (guess how I know!) Also if you don't remove it, the very next item you buff, it will come right off and colour that, but not in a pretty way.
So, you have coloured your piece and are ready to seal, with oil it will just be a case of wiping on several coats (three or four) and leaving a good 24 hours between coats (you can denib between coats for a better finish, but do it with care, yellow nyweb should be plenty) once the final coat has been applied, give it a good few days to properly harden, then starting with the tripoli wheel, and a light pressure, work your way round the item, checking the finish against a light for blemishes, if you get a stubborn bit, don't try pressing harder, or leaving it rub the same spot for too long, this will only heat the surface and destroy the finish (I found out by the same method as before).
Just keep using light brief touches to the wheel till it smooths out, if that fails, finish the rest of it and apply another coat or patch that bit, then repeat.
Follow that with the DW wheel, the lighter you keep your touch, the better the finish.
Finally, use the wax wheel, apply wax if you wish, or just use it to get that last bit of gloss going and remove any smeary looking patches.
With Lacquer I apply 2 coats of rattle can sealer (Chestnuts acrylic) and three or four coats of gloss lacquer, leaving each coat to dry thoroughly and denibbing in between each, the final coat will look stunning when wet, but dries to a light dimple pattern, this is a bit irritating and you have two options, A: sand the surface smooth with 400 grit (600 if you have wet and dry, use it wet or it will clog and cause drag marks) then dry it and buff out the scratches with the tripoli using the same technique as before right to finishing, remembering always to keep you touch light, but also keep a good grip on the item to avoid it being snatched out of your hand and flung around the workshop at near light speed, acquiring many dents on the way (tediously, this lesson was repeated several times)
B: Just go for the dimples with tripoli from the start.
The main thing with the lacquer is to really give it time to harden before buffing, two or three days in a warm dry environment will mean it fully cures (longer if using Melamine)
The advantage being, it takes a better gloss, is less prone to dragging and in the long run is less work.
You can also see a video of the buffing wheels being used on my website, just go to the videos link at the top and you will find it.
Oops! It's not on the site, it's here
