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CHJ":3dzw23ac said:
the wall thickness is about 4mm except immediately under the rim..... .......photo perspective seems to exaggerate it somewhat.

It certainly does Chas!, to my eye in the pic it looks about 3/4 of an inch thick :lol:

JT
 
wizer":3657pvt1 said:
....However, I absolutely love these elm vases. I'm going to try one as soon as possible.

Tom, something you may want to build yourself before you attempt to go too deep with a tough wood like Elm, and any other wood where the chucking spigot may be suspect to take the side loads.

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Sorry for the lousy pictures but it is very sunny in the shop this morning.
 
Thanks Chas. The pics are good. Do you think you could take a pic and/or explain how it fits to the bed?

Also how do the wheels turn?
 
Hi Chas,

Agree with previous comments about the bowl but the elm vase is great.
Finish in both cases to your usual excellent standard.

Thanks for showing the steady design. I note a couple of features such as the clamping washers that make fabrication very simple. What did you use for wheels?

Regards,

Mike C
 
Tom, I think you can see the lathe clamping method, the Ply frame is sandwich between Oak Pads to give width and rigidity.Tom, Mike,the Wheels are made up of a small bearing with a piece of kitchen chopping board for tyre and an "O ring" set in a suitable location groove.
Mike, the metal arm clamps, the steel is 10mm thick, the ply layer 9mm, the washers have a thin 'Half Washer' under the one edge to limit tipping.

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Sorry for the big pictures don't have much time this morning to sort out thumbnails.
 
thanks very much Chas. I think I have just worked out what I will be doing in the workshop this Sunday ;)
 
Thanks Chas

The wheels will be cheaper to make up using bearings rather than skate wheels as I have all the materials. They will also allow steadying smaller diameter work.

Thanks for the details, like Wizer I will also be busy this weekend :D

Regards,

Mike C
 
Do skate wheels have bearings in them then?

I'll probably go that route as i'm lazy ;)
 
wizer":1mnf4lsa said:
Do skate wheels have bearings in them then?

I'll probably go that route as i'm lazy ;)

If you take the wheels off a skate or board then they will have a pair of bearings .
If you buy the wheels separately then they probably won't.

Boots and boards regularly come up of Freecycle and you often find them in charity shops. I picked up a mini board with 4 wheels for under £5.

Duncan
 
cheers duncan, will keep an eye out. It looks like the ones on eBay come without bearings
 
actualy, contradicting myself, would these work?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KART-17MM-WHEEL-B ... 0361108223

I assume you just turn a cylinder on the lathe, drill a hole through the middle the same size at the bearings, then chop them up into 4 equal parts\wheels and glue in the bearing.

Have I got that right? Or is it more complicated?
 
Tom, to make life easy for yourself just use the used inline skate wheels as suggested. They come with two bearings in each wheel, and the mounting bolts, nuts, spacers, and washers from the skate frame. All you have to do is supply the frame and arms.

If you think the wheels are a bit too big, remove the bearings, make a wooden plug for each side with a large bolt and nut through the middle, Put this in your chuck and gently turn the wheels down to the size you want. Having them the same size isn't critical as they adjust separately. Just leave enough meat to support the bearings.
 
Tom , sorry for late reply, other duties this weekend.
The 'Tyres' on my bearings are not glued on, I counter bore a recess from one side only, this traps the tyre on the bearing by the clamping washers.

The important bit is the spacing sleeve in the bearing, this needs to be long enough to give running clearance on trapped components when bolt tightened.
 
______
_________Another test for sharp tools________Click on image for larger view.

________
__________Cedar of Lebanon 190mm
 
mrs. sliver":1azfhn67 said:
... what is it like to use?

Like cutting a very aromatic but firm shortbread biscuit mrs.S, with distinct hardness differences across the growth rings, easily marked with stray grits or finger nail, endgrain tears readily if tool not sharp and presented as a slicing/shearing cut.
Will shear scrape to good surface if sharp burred scraper used on a diagonal to grain direction.

Easy to get tool bounce corrugations from a gouge due to growth ring density change.

The samples I have benefit from Cellulose sealer hardening of the endgrain (like spalted wood) to aid cutting.
 
Lovely form Chas, and that grain swirl is amazing. Someone's going to be lucky when they receive that.
 
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