SIP 01344 PLANER THICKNESSER - calibrating thicknesser bed

[Cret]

Hi all

I recently picked up one of these machines (basically same fundamental machine as a Metabo HC260 and Record Power PT260 etc) for an ok price, and aside from the blades needing reversing, it seemed to be ok.
Unfortunately I quickly realised that the sprockets inside the machine are worn out for the chain which distributes the movement needed to raise & lower the thicknesser bed.

I've got some replacement sprockets, but wondered if anyone here has had to do this task themselves?
I'm happy enough dismantling whatever is necessary to swap them out, but not sure yet what the technique is to get all 4 leadscrews for the bed to be calibrated so that it is level & even. Am currently going through youtube videos to see if I can find something that shows the process as it's a fairly common machine and I believe a common issue, but if anyone has experience of carrying out this process and can advise then I'd be grateful of course!

Cheers

 

[Cret]

Guess not then.

On closer inspection earlier this evening it looks like actually just removing these worn down sprockets is going to be much more of a task than I anticipated, so I'll attempt to remember to take pics through the process in case it makes things easier for someone else in future.

 

[tomatwark]

Difficult to see on diagram
But if the bottom will unscrew without taking the machine apart, I would turn the machine upside down, take off the bottom.
Then wind the bed to its thinnest setting, you may have to turn each leg by hand if the gears won't grip
Then change the gears, before you out the chain back make sure that all 4 legs are fully wound up and the table
Is at its thinnest setting, don't force them however.
This should mean that the calibration stays correct.
You should be able to reset the measure gauge once the machine is running so don't worry about that.

 

[Cret]

Thanks for the input.

Yes that makes sense I agree cheers. I have it currently on its side and will have to remove the entire metal motor housing because while the sprockets are visible there doesn't seem to be sufficient clearance beneath them to withdraw them from the shafts they're on. Which is a bit of an irritating design oversight when they could have just had some recesses in the metal housing and it would have saved a lot of time.

Think you're right that I'll have to wind up each leadscrew by hand but my only concern with that is whether that still makes the table genuinely level. Hopefully there's something I can reference at each corner with vernier calipers or something to measure the gap between the table and the overhead bit where the cutter is, but I suppose that probably depends on whether the castings of the machine are accurate and level or what have you.

And sorry, as I ought to have added pics to the original post but will try to add some.

 

[ObservantGround28]

So I’m in the same boat, with exactly the same p/t as you and the same sprocket issue. How did you get on? Any tips?

 

[Farm Labourer]

Bizarely - my first post today about 1730 tells how I solved this!


Mod edit- that would be here: post1304426.html#p1304426

 

[Myfordman]

Perhaps this link will work better? The one above gets a 404 error.
It looks like a forum coding error. A mod has put a html link into a post from a new member who is not yet allowed to post such links.
post1304426.html#p1304426

 

[ObservantGround28]

Bizarely - my first post today about 1730 tells how I solved this!


Mod edit- that would be here: post1304426.html#p1304426

Thank you so much! I had thought about looking for a professional to recalibrate, but I’ve got the courage to give it a go after your post!

 

[Farm Labourer]

How did you get on?

 

[ObservantGround28]

Literally not had a chance as I’ve been sorting the outbuilding into a proper workshop. I’ll update you when I get a chance (hopefully next couple of weeks).

Whilst I’ve got you here though, it had some trouble with the feed and I had to push through some very old 2x4 reclaimed joists by hand at times. New rollers? What other spares would you recommend changing/checking whilst I’m doing this?

Thanks!

 

[beech1948]

Just a side thought but worn out sprockets usually mean the chain has a lot of wear as well and would need to be replaced also.

 

[Farm Labourer]

When I took mine apart, the outfeed (soft rubber) roller was royally shagged, so it evidently needed replacing and as it was cheaper than the belt that drives it - it made sense to replace it!

I'm beginning to think that the chain drive table lifting mechanism is a sub-optimal solution having had a look at a friend's solus pillar table lift on his Sedgewick! This morning I'm pretty sure it jumped a tooth again whilst raising the table - so may need new sprockets and a chain, they are not expensive but this is becoming more pain than pleasure.

Last month, I also replaced both start and run capacitors, the relay and the motor bearings - so the thing owes me too much money to replace on a whim!

 

[ObservantGround28]

Only just got round to doing this FL. Where did you pickup your spares from?