Essential Power Tools for starting wood worker

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The advice I was given is not to buy anything until you need it, and when you do buy then get something which will meet your needs for the foreseeable future.

My son and I started setting up our workshops at about the same time. He was fitting out his house, and started with a mitre saw. I was making children’s toys, and started with a scroll saw. I’ve since avoided/deferred buying a bandsaw because I could cut out guitar body blanks with the scroll saw.

What we’ve both bought are chip extractors and dust collectors. Don’t forget these. A Henry domestic vacuum is sufficient for most hand tools, but you need something more substantial for anything bigger.
 
While I appreciate that you have specified power tools, I wonder if you have considered something like the Veritas combination plane. That together with a router plane (not functionally to be confused with a router) will do an awful lot of the things you need while not necessitating dust extraction or ear protection. It's also relatively easy to achieve precision with such tools.

On a similar note I had (still have) an electric drill from long before I started to take an interest in woodworking but now I use an old Millers Falls No 2 for 90%+ of my drilling tasks with the rest usually being done with a table top drill press from Proxxon when I need it. The MF is quicker, quieter and cleaner and it is more efficient unless you are going to drill masses of holes. It's also cheaper as would be the combination plane.
 
SammyQ":2ynti6qm said:
......The clue is the word "finishing". "Cutting" the shoulders can of course be done on either saw. "Finishing" needs a nice heavy shoulder plane, Record 73, 74 or similar.....

Whilst not wishing to involve myself in this altercation, I'd just nuance what you've said by saying that I don't own a shoulder plane, but get my shoulders bang-on with a marking knife and sharp chisels.
 
Andy Kev.":1as1497x said:
...... have considered something like the Veritas combination plane...

Why quote a maker's name? Is your point more or less valid by naming a favourite high end maker? A combination plane is a wonderful bit of kit, and any will do nicely. An old Stanley or Record amongst others, or an old wooden one. They're all very capable. It just bugs me that so many people seem to think that unless a tool comes out of one of a couple of factories in Canada that it isn't worth even considering. The reason it bugs me is that this sort of thing can put newcomers or improvers off. The hobby can suddenly look seriously pricey if they "have" to spend £150 or £200 on tools rather than £30 or £40.
 
I think that uniquely in the matter of combination planes there might be a case for specifying Veritas and that is that they claim to have ironed out all the difficulties associated with the older ones when it comes to getting the adjustments and settings bang on. According to the reviews they appear to have achieved that. Of course one can't comment definitively on that without testing the two side by side. (You may have noticed that I didn't refer to a manufacturer when mentioning the router plane.)

That said, in general terms I agree entirely with the point you're making e.g. I recently picked up an old Record No 6 and am convinced that a brand new version of it would probably not be worth the extra money.
 
MikeG.":1zhw7bhe said:
........ I don't own a shoulder plane, but get my shoulders bang-on with a marking knife and sharp chisels.
Well done!
What are the chisels for?
 
Whilst not wishing to involve myself in this altercation, I'd just nuance what you've said by saying that I don't own a shoulder plane, but get my shoulders bang-on with a marking knife and sharp chisels.

Absolutely Mike. Garrett Hack does it this way too. I was simply answering in the context of the O.P.'s query and subsequent posts. My arthritis makes chiselling difficult for me, so I have to limit it and I DO have a shoulder plane.

Deceasing cats with concentrated milk fat, ne c'est pas?

Sam.
 
Hi all,

Having just read this thread (and found it very helpful), I am in a similar dilemma as to what to purchase in order to complete a set of alcove cupboards and shelves.

I have a Hitachi non-sliding mitre saw. It has helped me complete a number of projects around the home but I realise it is on the 'cheaper' end of the scale in terms of quality etc. I have a good set of chisels and drill set, a Kregg pocket hole kit (the small blue jig, not the larger tabletop one) and various other bits and pieces.

I have done some homework into how these cupboards are made and the only part I'll have trouble with is making the shaker style doors, specifically the dado cut for the panel to sit in.

Me being me, I set out looking for a tablesaw. I then reigned myself in and decided to join this forum for a bit of advice. After reading some of the comments on here I'm now wondering if a table router would be best to achieve what I need.

Any help is greatly welcome and appreciated.

edit: I forgot to mention that space is indeed at an absolute premium. Before our house was refurbished I was working in a lean-to which is now part of the garden. The plan is to get a small shed and work out of there.

Cheers
 
I personally would go for a Router and Router table (you can build a router table, or buy a small table that goes on a bench/table); and a track saw for breaking down the sheets (MDF, Ply etc) which I assume (only an assumption at this point) will be what you are using to build the alcove cupboards.

You will also need clamps (sash cramps) large enough for your needs, and a plane (like a no 4 jack plane) if you don't already have one.

What materials were you thinking of using for the alcove cupboards?

I highly recommend Peter Millard on YouTube to learn from and see how a professional does alcove cupboards, and he has a great series on track saws.
 
Thanks for the reply Sammy.

I've watched a number of Peter's videos and in fact it was partly his and Gid joiner's youtube vids that made me want to try making my own cupboards. Peter builds a full framed cupboards whereas I would look to just build the front frame with doors as per Gid's videos.

I would make a front frame with a small return made from solid wood, perhaps beech or spruce. The shaker door stiles and rails would be the same material with the panel being mdf. I wouldn't need to rip this down as it's readily available in the widths I need. Everything will be painted in white.

The top would be an oak or something I could stain to match our oak wood floor. The cupboards would probably be ply (again painted white) with dados for the shelves and a rear baton to give some strength.

I'm leaning towards a router table and tracksaw as this would get the majority of what I currently need done. I'd also look to replace the blade on my mitre saw although I'd really like to upgrade this to a sliding version.

Cheers
 

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