Wadkin 12" BAO/S Planer Thicknesser Project

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Underside of thicknessing table
 

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Taking weights, as I go.

Proximal top cover...................... 3.4kg
Distal top cover........................... 5.5kg
Planing tables........................... 21.1kg ea.
Thicknessing table assembly....42.2kg
 
I would be interested in the old cutter block if it has 3 cutters as my sedgwick 12 inch planer is only a 2 cutter block.
 
topchippyles":lwwv4klr said:
I would be interested in the old cutter block if it has 3 cutters as my sedgwick 12 inch planer is only a 2 cutter block.
It does. I'll let you know when I decide to part with it.
 
Managed to get a shot of the cutterblock motor nameplate through the access hole. Definitely 415V Wye only....
 

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I think (fairly sure) I have a 3ph motor from Brook Crompton that’s a match that’s star delta from new that you can have for £60 including shipping. I will check tomorrow if your interested.
 
deema":3ob0u0az said:
I think (fairly sure) I have a 3ph motor from Brook Crompton that’s a match that’s star delta from new that you can have for £60 including shipping. I will check tomorrow if your interested.
Thanks deema. I'd be grateful if you could check that.
 
I've had motors in the past that only showed one voltage on the tag but were changeable in the box
 
wallace":1mvkyptr said:
I've had motors in the past that only showed one voltage on the tag but were changeable in the box
Thanks wallace, that's interesting. I noticed that the machines Wadkin exported often had dual voltage tags.. My AGS (1977) is wired for Wye only. This BAO/S is 1982ish so, it's possible....
 
Checked the motor it’s a star Delta, 90L frame, 2.2KW, RPM 2850 Brook Crompton, foot mounted. It runs perfectly with having hardly had any use, no damage and with key. It’s a bit dusty and a few scratches from being in my workshop for ages. I’ve run it this evening to check everything is perfect. The shaft has a plastic protective cover in in the photo. No rust on the shaft.
It should be a like for like replacement, and a high quality motor.
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deema":6wonizsj said:
Checked the motor it’s a star Delta, 90L frame, 2.2KW, RPM 2850 Brook Crompton, foot mounted. It runs perfectly with having hardly had any use, no damage and with key. It’s a bit dusty and a few scratches from being in my workshop for ages. I’ve run it this evening to check everything is perfect. The shaft has a plastic protective cover in in the photo. No rust on the shaft.
It should be a like for like replacement, and a high quality motor.
Great! Email sent.
 
In the BAO/S manual it gives instructions on adjusting the belt tension of the cutterblock drive. This is done by screw adjustment acting on a jockey pulley (see extract below). In my machine there is no jockey pulley or adjustment system just an unused mounting hole! Can anyone with a BAO or BAO/S shed any light on this? Was it something that was left out after a certain date or is my machine a Friday afternoon job (like my AGS... grrrrr...)?
 

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No problem hanging into the motor for a week or two for you. If you find you don’t need it give us the heads up and I will make it available to anyone else / pop it on an auction site before it gets lost in the shavings again!!
 
Will do! Hope to get this thing on its back by the weekend. Need to take the cutterblock off first to reduce the weight a bit.

Wonder if we could use an engine stand to work on the BAO/S? Pity they don't adjust in height......
 
Take off the cutterblock, drive rollers, belt drive and chain drive. Insert plank into drive space. Chock the opposite side up to the balance point then use the plank to control the descent.
 

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I took the cutterblock motor out. It's definitely 400V WYE connection only, without opening up the case...

I've decided to buy a new motor so as to increase the power from 2.2kW to 3kW. I can do this in the same frame size (slight increase in length), so no problems with the mounting or fit.

I've also taken the cutterblock assembly apart.
 

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Do you plan on having locking castors as well or just wedge the machine into place when you're using it? Having a machine wander away from me as I'm putting timber through it would annoy me.
 
I plan to use wedges. Locking castors need a much greater swing radius than the space allows. Simon suggested using hockey pucks which I think is a great idea. I'll taper one face and can then just kick them under the skirt to stop movement.
 
Miles, alternative to pucks is to find an old/new HDPE cutting/chopping board and cut 4 (altho sometimes can get away with only 2 at opposing corners) U shapes out, generally the space should be thickness of your castor. These slide in and are surprisingly effective. Just pull 2 out when you want to move.
 
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