Internal door linings

[johnfarris]

I have to make a internal oak door linings, so I am looking for some opinions on getting the depth of the lining right. The wall my lining is going into, is brick with a cement and gyproc finish. I have measured the depth of the opening and it varies between 130 to 140mm .
The depth is more 130mm than 140mm if that makes sense.

My questions are
What depth should I make my linings?
When making lining in general do you add a a bit on extra for the depth anyway?

thanks in advance
John

 

[HOJ]

Off the the shelf linings for your situation would be ex 32 x 138, finishing at about 27 x 132, I would stick with measurements in this range.

 

[MikeG.]

Is this an existing wall, already plastered? Or will the wall be plastered after the linings are fitted?

 

[johnfarris]

Is this an existing wall, already plastered? Or will the wall be plastered after the linings are fitted?

Yes existing wall already plastered

 

[MikeG.]

Then you're scribing, I'm afraid. Make it wider than the widest part of the wall, offer it up, mark the wall line on both sides, and plane down to that line.

 

[HOJ]

Are you fitting Architrave ? personally, I would scribe that rather than scribe the lining, quite often have to do it this way when walls are re- skimmed.

 

[johnfarris]

Then you're scribing, I'm afraid. Make it wider than the widest part of the wall, offer it up, mark the wall line on both sides, and plane down to that line.

Wouldn't scribing the linings cause potential problems on the hanging side of the lining. The closing edge of the door could protrude further than the edge of the lining?

Are you fitting Architrave ? personally, I would scribe that rather than scribe the lining, quite often have to do it this way when walls are re- skimmed.

Yes I am fitting the arcs. I thinking the way to do it is, make the lining depth wider add a fillet to the out side edge of the arcs first and scribe that.

When making any lining is a an amount added to the lining depth anyway?

John

 

[MikeG.]

Then you're scribing, I'm afraid. Make it wider than the widest part of the wall, offer it up, mark the wall line on both sides, and plane down to that line.

Wouldn't scribing the linings cause potential problems on the hanging side of the lining. The closing edge of the door could protrude further than the edge of the lining?.........

Yep. But I'm assuming you're planning on using planted on stops, and would just set the door slightly further in. I'm also assuming, of course, that the wall isn't too bad. If it is, then glue a strip onto the leading edge of the architrave and scribe that instead. I've done that around all the windows in this place, set in wonky old oak framing. It's a long winded chore, but produces a nice result. Or, there's always the chippies favourite get-out: leave a big gap, and the decorator will get over it.

 

[Doug71]

It's a case of making it look the best you can, I think it looks better if you can get away without scribing the arc, it just makes it look like something has gone wrong. If the casing is a bit narrow you can scrape off some skimming and fit the architrave on a slight angle. Often cheap casings seem to shrink and cup so you have to do this anyway.

I have seen a few jobs recently where the builders have skimmed before the casings have gone in and told the customers that is how it is done these days.

My local builder says the gap behind the architrave is there to tuck the wallpaper behind.

 

[deema]

You need to start to make something in the room correct, and that should be the door, the linings and the architrave. There may have been cowpeople (getting better at this PC stuff) plastering or indeed building the wall, but I would set the linings and the door straight and true on both sides. If you don’t, the door will have to be set out of plumb to line up with the edge of the linings. This in turn will lead to either the door self closing or a large gap under the door depending on whether it’s keaning back or forward. I would then replaster the wall to make that true as well. My house had exactly these problems on every single door where some master cowpeople clearly circled their wagons when converting it from an old chapel long before I got my hands on it. I ripped the lot out and started again.....uncovering more and more of their brilliance as I went.

 

[johnnyb]

Cut the linings at 130. Set them plumb. Pencil a line where the arcs will come on the protruding plaster. Chop it with a sharp bolster. Use nails and Ms polymer dots on the back of the arcs. 1 hour caulk( or other thick caulk)
As one poster mentioned though a nice job is a long series of smaller nice jobs. But by the same token rebuilding the house because of a wonky wall isn't going to float.