Looking for some advice on building this kennel and run ...

[blackbulldog]

Hi there,

I've recently retired and decided to take up some woodworking projects to utilise my time. I've decided to build a dog kennel and run, something like the attached picture. The actual one I want to build is a 4ft x 4ft kennel area with a 6ftx 4ft run area. So, 10ftx4ft in total.

I haven't got much experience in wood working so I'm looking for some advice.

My idea is to build a frame from 4x4 posts (4 for the kennel area and 2 for the run area) and join them using 4x2 rails.

Once the frame is built then I plan to attach the relevant panels (which I think I'll build myself) to the frame then add the galvanised panel and roof.

Does that sound like a reasonable plan or is there something (many things?) I've missed?

Thanks in advance,
Mark

 

[MikeG.]

4x4 is pretty damned chunky for such a small building. My 30 sqm workshop is built of 4x2s, and an 8 foot square shed is plenty strong enough built of 2x2s. I would suggest just scaling back the timbers somewhat.

 

[blackbulldog]

Hi MikeG,

Thanks for responding.

Told you I knew next to nothing :lol:

So would you use 4x2 for both posts and rails or 2x2 for both posts and rails?

Also, would you use rebates (I fancy ding a bit of rebating!) to screw the posts and rails together or would you just simply screw them without rebating?

Thanks again

 

[MikeG.]

I would build it precisely the way I am building a shed at the moment: 45x45 CLS treated timber with plates top and bottom, and studs at 600 centres between. So long as there is sheathing board or diagonal bracing (9mm OSB for sheathing, or 200x25 sawn for bracing), and all the timbers are cut accurately, there is no need for any jointing (albeit a butt joint is technically a joint).

 

[blackbulldog]

I would build it precisely the way I am building a shed at the moment: 45x45 CLS treated timber with plates top and bottom, and studs at 600 centres between. So long as there is sheathing board or diagonal bracing (9mm OSB for sheathing, or 200x25 sawn for bracing), and all the timbers are cut accurately, there is no need for any jointing (albeit a butt joint is technically a joint).

I'm beginning to understand ... I think ...

ok, use 45x45 for the frame and at every 600mm insert an upright stud.

could you explain what 'with plates top and bottom' means?

9mm osb for sheathing, that means cover the frame in 9mm osb board, right?

Thanks for your time.

 

[MikeG.]

Plates are simply the top and bottom members of a frame. The timbers nearest the camera here are plates:

They are what the studs fix to, and the part of the building which transfers the load to the plinth or ground (in the case of the sole plate), or bears the weight of the roof (that's the wall plate's job). The OSB is optional. You can either fix a board such as ply or OSB over the walls to stiffen everything up, or you can attach diagonal braces. If you don't the first wind will have the building leaning like that tower in Pisa.

 

[blackbulldog]

That makes perfect sense now.

Thanks for your time.

EDIT: just occurred to me ...

If I was to brace the panel then the brace would run from one bottom corner to the opposite top corner of the whole panel - I wouldn't have to brace in an X shape would I?

If using osb ... if the height of the panel is 2m, what height should the osb brace be?

Also, when using either type of brace you would always brace on the internal wall, right?

Last one ... would I have to treat the osb with anything to make it last outdoors?

Thanks again...

 

[MikeG.]

A timber diagonal brace only needs to run in one direction, as it works in both compression and tension. If you were bracing with, say, a stainless steel wire as you see in many modern buildings, then you would need a cross as wire works in tension only. Sheathing board would normally cover the entirety of the wall.

The location of the OSB depends on the use of the building. If it is heated and insulated, then the OSB should be on the inside face of the wall. If it is an unheated building, as yours appears to be, then it doesn't much matter, and outside the frame is probably easiest. If you do this, then you put battens over the OSB in line with the studs behind, and fix your external feather-edge board to those, leaving an air-gap behind the boards. This is precisely how I am building my current shed, and with a low brick plinth raising the timber off the ground, it is a method which will guarantee even the most neglected shed will last decades.

OSB doesn't need treating. It is essentially a panel of dried glue, with a bit of wood chip pushed into it for aesthetics.

 

[blackbulldog]

I know I should sit for a while and get all my questions together then ask them ... but I just don't seem able to summon the physical and mental resources necessary to do that!

So, more questions (sorry) ....

Once the panels are built, is it just a case of screwing them together (after pre-drilling) at right angles?

Are there any special screws (coach screws?) I should use?

Thanks again ...

 

[MikeG.]

You make all the pieces up as panels, and simply screw the corner pieces together when you stand everything up in place. Have some help at this stage, as two panels flapping about are hard to control alone. It doesn't take much to make the corners very secure, just 2 or 3 screws, or even just fixing through overlapping OSB.

You're on your own for the next week or so, as I'm off abroad. Sorry!

 

[blackbulldog]

I'm sure you deserve a holiday after putting up with my drivel for the last week.

Have a good one and thanks again.