Accurate representation?

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1/4HP motor apparently, so no that doesn't surprise me. He is also using far too high a speed for that cutter, lower speed = higher torque.
 
+1 for the above, totally unrealistic expectation.

Far, Far, too fast and a 1hp motor would not be overpowered.

Good job the motor was not powerful enough without that workpiece clamped.
Assume he would have had the sense to put some sacrificial wood underneath it if it was good to go.
 
Also watching the video, "pinky power" or not, with the feed handle of a drill press you can exert an awful lot of force with your pinky finger. He is also pushing constantly, not allowing chips to clear, being MDF they will be fluffy and clog up the teeth fast even if he is using a sharp cutter.

I would bet I could easily make that cut, in that drill press, with proper peck drilling technique or by drilling a clearance hole if the job permitted.

I see only user error really. The only fault of the machine is that something like that is really rather pointless, a 1/4HP drill with a 1/2" chuck is over advertising itself. Really it's best suited to maybe a 1/4" chuck and light drilling duties at high speed in metal or plastics. The lidl version of that drill (at least my version did) came with a 3/4HP motor and was quite capable for it's size, though a bit rough around the edges.
 
2 1/2" hole saw into mdf at high speed? the mans an silly person. Ignore any of his videos.
 
What Sunnybob said. Why would you buy a 12-speed drill and then use it at high speed for a job like that. Not sure I'd use a hole drill in the first place, but do realise that many people would use one if that was all they had.
By the way, P1 input power for that drill is 0.6kW - would be described as 3/4hp by many manufacturers.
Having said the above, RP are guilty of overuse of the term "heavy duty" on many of their products. Just look at their blurb on the Coronet Herald lathe. Very likely designed to mislead first time buyers.
Duncan, (who would have a great time sueing companies under the Trades Description Act if he had the time and money)
 
FWIW, agree 100% with all the above. The bloke doesn't know/understand much at all does he? That's OK "no one fell down out of the stork's beak knowing everything", BUT doesn't give him the right to make a video bashing someone's product without having the knowledge to know how to use it properly.

BTW I often use my pillar drill with sheet thick material and a hole saw (to make wheels, adaptors for DE, etc) but NOT at that speed and NOT without clearing the chips regularly!

"IMO, you are a Klutz Sir" (NOT for not knowing something, but for posting a video while thinking that you do know something)!
 
Propping up the workpiece on his knee means it's rocking all over the place, and when it rocks the circle cutter binds on the sides of the cut.

Someone with half a clue would have had a sacrificial piece underneath, a securely cramped workpiece, a carefully adjusted depth stop, the slowest possible speed, small cuts with pauses to clear the waste, and a freshly sharpened cutter.

But he's fairly typical of many DIY clowns. Expects first rate, instant results from cheap kit with zero preparation, and when it all goes pear shaped he gets sulky and blames the tools.
 
Good timing to see this as I'm about to get a holesaw for a 102 mm hole. Until I read the comments I thought the bloke in the video had a duff drill. I didn't know you had to slow down the drill when using a holesaw, ha that's me schooled!
 
That's fine Oscar, and exactly what Forums like this are for.

As my wife often reminds me, "no one fell down out of ......... ".

Like the man above said, just take it slowly, do NOT lean on the handle, set up the slowest speed you've got on your machine, and withdraw frequently to clear all the chips.

And if you want a nice finish, once the pilot drill has broken through the job into the scrap underneath, stop, turn the job over and finish the hole from the other side. (The "off cut" will be useful too!)
 
I bought the dirt cheap B and Q MacAllister pillar drill on sale a bit ago because it included a small vice (which I have used once in total) and I have to say I'd rather have the Record Power even after that performance. It's a lot quieter less rattling and vibration and generally looks a good bit more sturdy than mine.
 
Oscar, what material are you going to cut a 105 mm hole in?
For that sized hole I would suggest a jigsaw would be quicker and less frustrating.

If you insist on drilling, its going to take you a long while, and you will need to brush the teeth clear very frequently. if smoke appears (and it will), youre too heavy handed.
truly... jigsaw. Or if the piece will fit, bandsaw and then glue the intro cut back together.

Theres a thread somewhere back in history here where I cut a 42 mm hole through 10 mm mild steel using a wood hole saw in my small bench pillar drill. No problem.
 
Whoops, my wrong - it's a 16B, not a 58B as per OP post. He's still a plonker though, unless he's trying to be ironic.
Duncan
 
Duncan A":2vvgdmmm said:
Whoops, my wrong - it's a 16B, not a 58B as per OP post.

OP is a moron...


This thread never happened....never happened.... shhhh


Although I am pleased I managed to get the 58B on t'bay for a goodly price..
.
 
sunnybob":287er0g9 said:
Oscar, what material are you going to cut a 105 mm hole in?
For that sized hole I would suggest a jigsaw would be quicker and less frustrating.

If you insist on drilling, its going to take you a long while, and you will need to brush the teeth clear very frequently. if smoke appears (and it will), youre too heavy handed.
truly... jigsaw. Or if the piece will fit, bandsaw and then glue the intro cut back together.

Theres a thread somewhere back in history here where I cut a 42 mm hole through 10 mm mild steel using a wood hole saw in my small bench pillar drill. No problem.

Material 18mm MDF. This is for the hose to pass through on my dust extractor silencer box project.

Yeah I thought about the jigsaw but worried I won't get it neat enough and leave gaps for air/noise to escape.
 
thats what silicone was invented for. I use it on my joints regardless. the tightest wood to wood fit is still gonna leak air unless you hammer it in like a barrel bung.
 
What is that youtuber on?

Balanced on his leg, waving the piece around near the holesaw while its spinning and deliberately working it to a standstill. Then claiming he is fair and asking for people to send him tools!!!

He has another video where he is slagging off a welder machine and opening up the innards. Darwin award coming soon??
 
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