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The previous owner pleaded ignorance. Having said that, the pillar drill was made in the 1940s so it's probably got some stories to tell. I have heard of people filling the holes with weld then grinding it back flush.

The table on my mill looks like the surface of the moon too :roll: :cry:
 
DTR":1x3epbym said:
The previous owner pleaded ignorance. Having said that, the pillar drill was made in the 1940s so it's probably got some stories to tell. I have heard of people filling the holes with weld then grinding it back flush.

Isopon P38 should be perfectly adequate
 
pcb1962":1tig4uel said:
Isopon P38 should be perfectly adequate

Hmmm interesting idea. The filler won't reinforce the weakened table like welding would, but it would be an easy way of levelling it. Thanks for the suggestion :)
 
Finishing the garter......

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The finished screw with tommy bar:

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And finally the finished vice:

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That looks great, especially in the moody lighting.
I predict that it will inspire more people to extend their woodworking with a bit of metalwork.
 
It's been a while since I posted anything in here, not that I've been making much apart from thumbscrews.... Here's something a little more interesting, a flanged threaded thingamabob for one of Doris' projects.

Started with a lump of aluminium and faced off both ends:

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Turned down the diameter to form the flange, shoulder and OD for the threaded portion:

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Set the gear train up to cut a 14tpi screwthread. As it's such a short length (and in ally too), it was easier to use a mandrel handle than keep starting and stopping the lathe on power:

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Part II coming up........
 

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Part II

Finished screw thread:

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Not pictured, but next I drilled a 1/2" hole through the middle.

Then I hit a snag. I intended to reverse the stock in the chuck and finish the flange, but I found there wasn't any way to fit it in the jaws (at least not safely, or at risk of damaging something). Instead I turned up a random stub into a mandrel that closely fit the 1/2" hole I'd drilled earlier:

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Then the thingamabob could be mounted either way around on the mandrel, and secured with a screw and thick washer:

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As an added bonus, this method also ensures that all of the outside diameters will be concentric with the bore. Not that it's important on this job.

Part III coming up......
 

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Part III

Just needed to drill some mounting holes around the flange now. The rotary table on the BCA is perfect for this sort of job:

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Finished flanged thingamabob:

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Thanks for looking!
 

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EXACTLY my own reaction and question too Andy!

Come on Dave "thingamybob" just doesn't cut it in these "high tech" days! :D

Nice work BTW, as was your chest in another thread - accomplished metal AND woodworker eh?
 
Well that looks suspiciously like a back plate. But we shall call it a flange, because people seem to find that word funny.

Tidy bit of work that Dave.
 
I've said too much already! Official Secrets Act and all that, very hush hush. I'll give you a hint though, the thread is 14tpi with an OD of 0.825".......

Thanks chaps
 
DTR":2pupyjv3 said:
I've said too much already! Official Secrets Act and all that, very hush hush. I'll give you a hint though, the thread is 14tpi with an OD of 0.825".......

Thanks chaps
That's one of two parts used for connecting the rod of a Unicorns mouthing bit (that as opposed to a D ring snaffle)
It's important to deep mouth your unicorn early in training of course. Unlike horses you don't want those blighters tossing their heads at you. Dangerous game that. It's either a horn in an eye or magical unicorn mane glitter all over you best riding breeches. No one wants that, it's a pita to get out.
Ask me another. Go on. Last one was too easy.
 
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