Jaybo
Member
Just wondering what is preferred wood glue and also if the foaming type wood glue is any good, or if it’s just too messy. As I can get my hands on plenty of this glue for no cost.
Wood glue
- Thread starter Jaybo
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Tasky
Established Member
So far I've stuck (pun intended) with just bog standard PVA type stuff, either the Diall or the Evostick stuff from B&Q. They've worked well so far - My abysmal sawhorses still hold well over 200kg without the slightest creak!
Which brand is this foaming stuff?
Which brand is this foaming stuff?
MARK.B.
Established Member
Jaybo ,the type of glue that you use will depend on what timber you are using and indeed what you are using the timber for. The pu foaming sort can be messy (wear gloves) and don't use to much or it might push the joint apart. Do a search on here as there is a lot of useful information to be found. Don't be tempted to buy large amounts at one time (unless the job requires it) or it will end up in the bin.
topchippyles
Established Member
The foam glue was mainly brought out for flooring on timber framing houses so not really the stuff for fine joinery work,A good pva is fine or a cascamite based glue is an excellent option.
Mike Jordan
Established Member
Hi jaybo
Cascamite powdered resin is a very good ,totally waterproof and easy to use general wood glue. I buy it from Adkwik.
For internal use titebond II is good and reasonably priced from lots of suppliers. The foaming PU has its uses but you need to protect yourself from it and the sanding dust, it's best kept away from until you are a practised woodworker.
The more expensive epoxy glues are only important when working with oily timbers like teak and Iroko etc
I recently bought a litre of glue from a national tool retailer, It only cost £7 odd and it looked to good to be true since to was described as waterproof and high strength. I used it on a test piece using two pieces of planed oak after24 hours I broke the test piece and the joint proved to be stronger than the timber, so far so good. I left the broken pieces in my fish pond overnight and was then able to pick off the softened glue with a finger nail.
You can learn a lot by ad hoc testing !
Cascamite powdered resin is a very good ,totally waterproof and easy to use general wood glue. I buy it from Adkwik.
For internal use titebond II is good and reasonably priced from lots of suppliers. The foaming PU has its uses but you need to protect yourself from it and the sanding dust, it's best kept away from until you are a practised woodworker.
The more expensive epoxy glues are only important when working with oily timbers like teak and Iroko etc
I recently bought a litre of glue from a national tool retailer, It only cost £7 odd and it looked to good to be true since to was described as waterproof and high strength. I used it on a test piece using two pieces of planed oak after24 hours I broke the test piece and the joint proved to be stronger than the timber, so far so good. I left the broken pieces in my fish pond overnight and was then able to pick off the softened glue with a finger nail.
You can learn a lot by ad hoc testing !
John15
Established Member
Titebond 3
John
John
MikeG.
Established Member
John15":1n65ynl9 said:
Not if you are using blond timbers.....ash, beech, sycamore, maple, pine and so on. It dries brown.
Mike Jordan
Established Member
Funny you should mention that one!
I've just broken up a rack that was glued with it that's been outside for two years - even where the water had got to it the glue was rock solid.
Mike Jordan
Established Member
Perhaps my goldfish are peeing battery acid! I think I will treat it as PVA and use only inside , if at all. It's interesting that we have had very differing results.
I use 502 inside - it's got a little more open time and not quite so much grab.
I use Everbuild 502 PVA for Oak and Pine
Sometimes Cascamite gets used too
UV glue is in my garage but not used much
Sometimes Cascamite gets used too
UV glue is in my garage but not used much
MatthewRedStars
Established Member
Foaming glue is fine for anything getting a full clean up. For example, a table top getting a full sand.
It's too messy for delicate joinery, cleaning up in corners and nooks is a PITA.
Otherwise go for it. Glue debates take a flavour of the sharpening debate on here. This glue, that glue, this glue, that glue. But we're arguing about tiny percentages. Wood glue, whether PU, UF, PVA etc, applied a well made joint will stick.
Maybe if it's a true heirloom piece then get give it some more thought, but let's be honest that doesn't apply to 99.99% of us.
Oh yeah, and wear gloves, PU + Dirt = black hands for days.
It's too messy for delicate joinery, cleaning up in corners and nooks is a PITA.
Otherwise go for it. Glue debates take a flavour of the sharpening debate on here. This glue, that glue, this glue, that glue. But we're arguing about tiny percentages. Wood glue, whether PU, UF, PVA etc, applied a well made joint will stick.
Maybe if it's a true heirloom piece then get give it some more thought, but let's be honest that doesn't apply to 99.99% of us.
Oh yeah, and wear gloves, PU + Dirt = black hands for days.
Have had good results with Evostick Resin W, all the Titebonds and Gorilla glue (which is foaming), Cascamite, Aerolite... All have different properties - choose the right glue for the job.
Point to note is that Gorilla may foam but it's not a gap filler. Make a tight fitting joint, use a thin layer, dampen according to the instructions and clamp it up hard. That way it makes a strong joint.
Point to note is that Gorilla may foam but it's not a gap filler. Make a tight fitting joint, use a thin layer, dampen according to the instructions and clamp it up hard. That way it makes a strong joint.
There loads of good glues out there. I reguly use PVA, polyurathane (foaming), epoxy's (West system) and should probably use Cascamite more but it's got neglected. For PVA I cant fault the Everbuild and at £5 per litre this is the cheapest option on small quantities I have found. During a boat build I started using polyurethanes for the convenience (one pot) as much as it's water resistant properties. This has become my goto glues now more due to it's long open times which is a big bonus during complicated glue ups. I have found there are big variations in PU glues though in the foaming and drying times. Balcotan was my favourite but now unavailable but Collano Semparoc is the next best thing IME. All of the above can be used for top quality work with invisible glue lines and strong holding power.
beechman
Established Member
I guess there is no definitive answer. My experience has led me towards the Gorilla products - glue and duct tape. I've made two outdoor projects using the "foaming" Gorilla external glue. I think it's outstanding. The more traditional Gorilla yellow wood glue has always worked well for me and I would not hesitate to recommend it. The one thing I love about their yellow glue is the glue cap. it is simple and ingenious. It never never clogs if you close and clean after every use.
