Refinishing bathroom cabinet

[Sheffield Tony]

I made a cabinet and some shelves for the bathroom quite a few years ago, in steamed beech. It didn't quite match the (bought) mirror frame, so thinking I was being clever I mixed various clear and tinted spirit based polyurethane varnishes to get a nice match.

The finish is now getting tatty. Can't sand it much, or I'll go through to bare wood and create a patchy mess. Stripping it alk of would be too much like hard work. How best to refinish it ? I was thinking a light sand and more polyurethane, old style smelly stuff, can't imagine water bourne being a good idea in the bathroom (?)

Whilst I have your ear - what best to finish a new (as yet, unmade) beech bath panel with ? Satin finish preferable, durable essential.

 

[custard]

One of the weaknesses of polyurethane varnishes is that subsequent coats don't bond well to previous fully cured coats. So delamination is likely in the future which is what produces that horrible scabby look. That's why many yacht varnishes, which are designed for multiple coats over many years, have reduced or zero polyurethane content.

For a good quality, enduring job strip to bare wood and start again. You don't really need the abrasion resistance of poly for most furniture, so other varnishes are worth considering.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

That's not what I wanted to hear, but thanks anyway. The caution about polyurethane delaminating is news to me and useful to know. I may be able to take the top off, and just strip and re-finish that, if I'm being lazy !

And as you mention "other varnishes" Custard, which ones are worth a try ? In particular, what should I consider for new bathroom woodwork that will get splashed a bit ? Does not have to be a varnish, I'm open minded (=clueless !) on this one

 

[custard]

Le Tonkinois Vernis No 1 or Epifanes Clear are two I've used and can recommend.

 

[ED65]

Tony, you can often liven up a tired varnished piece with more varnish (this is irrespective of varnish type, including poly) as long as there aren't losses that go down to bare wood. Aside: you can still touch up flaking too – despite the reputation of varnish being an unrepairable finish – but it's a much harder job.

So you say it's tatty, how bad is it?

I was thinking a light sand and more polyurethane, old style smelly stuff

That's exactly it. I see you've received advice to the contrary but after cleaning you can just scuff up the surface and apply some dilute varnish AKA wiping varnish. It's much the same as the last coat or two after flatting off the build layers when finishing in the first place..

Before this launches a big debate the thing is you lose nothing by trying this but some time, thin some varnish, wipe it on an area with representative damage and see how it looks. If it does what you need then you don't need to go further, to a strip and refinish.

can't imagine water bourne being a good idea in the bathroom (?)

They can be fine actually, but they vary so much you'd need to be sure of what you were using.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

Mostly it is not bad.

I was thinking that, if the worst case is that a freshening up coat doesn't bond well and looks bad, then I've not lost much as I can still strip it all off and start again. I can appreciate that, if I were in the position of a pro like Custard, I'd want a solution that is sure to work - but as it is just for me I can afford to risk having to re-work it without reputational damage (well, except with DW :| )

The top is the worst bit as water splashes have got through worn varnish in one place, so I think I will have to strip that at least. But that's quick with a card scraper - the rest of it (frame and panel type construction) would be much more fiddly.

For the new woodwork, I'll have a look at your suggestions Custard. Thanks.

 

[Sheffield Tony]

B****r it, Custard is quite right. A fresh coat of PU (Ronseal satin) over old scratches off fairly easily with a fingernail, despite a rub down with Abranet before applying.

 

[ED65]

That's a shame, could have bonded fine. New finish can stick to old finish as long as the surface is clean and not shiny so there's texture for the new finish to cling to mechanically.