Boiled Linseed Oil

[Steve Maskery]

I've made a nice little box for a friend. Recycled oak (from a cabinet my dad made, probably back in the 70s and never properly finished...). It has a quartersawn top and I quite like it.
I gave it a couple of coats of PolyX, which is my go-to finish as it is easy and doesn't require a spray booth, but I am a bit disappointed that the figure hasn't popped and the finish is very low sheen.
Now I know that low-sheen is very on-trend. But I'm not, I'd like a bit more of a satin finish.
So I tried a couple of coats of BLO over it and the figure shows a bit better, but it is still fairly matt.
Can anyone give me some pointers as to how many coats it will need or what else I can do to improve the finish?
In every other respect I'm very happy with the box, but wood finishing is not my forté. I don't really want to sand back to bare wood if I can help it.
PS The Osmo is just a couple of years old, the BLO is Roman...

 

[NickN]

I've used the Liberon Black Bison Neutral Paste Wax with good results over an oil treatment, just seems to boost the shine a nice (but not excessive with one coat) amount when polished.

https://www.axminster.co.uk/liberon-bla ... 0ml-340885

The Antique Oil I use doesn't begin to give any shine at all until after four or five coats over a couple of days.

 

[Steve Maskery]

That's helpful, thank you. I'll just keep going for a while then, I think.
S

 

[Jacob]

Raw linseed works fine. Thin coat rubbed out left for week or more, then another rubbed out etc. Eventually produces a very fine shine and a very durable surface

 

[Steve Maskery]

Why Raw rather than Boiled, Jacob?
I do have a bit of time before I have to hand this present over.

 

[Jacob]

"Boiled" has hardeners and goes off faster but as a tangible layer like varnish.
Raw is slow but soaks in and gives a very fine finish - eventually. It was regarded as superior to anything else, but french polish came along as a cheap, easy and glossy alternative, but utterly inferior in terms of wear, water resistance etc.

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

Steve, sand your finish down to 400g then use 0000 wire wool with a firm pressure until it starts to take on a burnished look then wax with anything other than a toluene based wax.

 

[Steve Maskery]

That is how I am doing it, Percy. Well P600 actually
I've got some Black Bison and some Chestnut 22, but I didn't want to put wax on until the oiling stage was done.
I think I just need to be a bit more patient.
Thanks for you input, much appreciated.

 

[ED65]

With all due respect to Jacob don't listen to him about raw versus boiled linseed oil. He consistently understates how long raw oil takes to 'dry' and building a decent finish with it takes months. The slow drying of cold-pressed linseed oil is the reason that "boiled" oils were developed in the first place.

So I tried a couple of coats of BLO over it and the figure shows a bit better, but it is still fairly matt.
Can anyone give me some pointers as to how many coats it will need...

At least 4-6, depending on how hard you rub. If you wanted a full oil finish it's well in excess of a dozen coats.

or what else I can do to improve the finish?

Shellac. Danish oil or teak oil (these are generally dilute blends of oil and varnish), or just varnish. You can wax of course but the shine provided by hard finishes is semi-permanent and not easily worn off with handling.

Shellac's the fastest by a long chalk, multiple coats can be wiped on with a rudimentary rubber in a single day and that would be more than enough shine for you.

...the BLO is Roman...

Doesn't matter. Gets better with age! Literally you can use it until it's nearly turned to a jelly.

 

[Jacob]

With all due respect to Jacob don't listen to him about raw versus boiled linseed oil. He consistently understates how long raw oil takes to 'dry' and building a decent finish with it takes months. The slow drying of cold-pressed linseed oil is the reason that "boiled" oils were developed in the first place. ....

No I agree it does take a long time (not months) but it doesn't take long to actually apply and it is a super finish - eventually.
French polish caught on because it's so fast - one bloke could finish 10 table tops (or some figure - a lot anyway) in a day. It works fastest for batch production so you work your way around the batch without having to stop. Not so handy for one offs.

 

[NickN]

French polish caught on because it's so fast - one bloke could finish 10 table tops (or some figure - a lot anyway) in a day. It works fastest for batch production so you work your way around the batch without having to stop. Not so handy for one offs.

Of course to be strictly accurate, the application of shellac in a liquid form is what can be very fast (and was, on my workbench).

French polishing is quite the opposite - if done properly and thoroughly anyway, several days needed. Ironically enough, often using raw linseed oil to assist in the process...