Mechanical Pencil suggestion for marking out?

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MrDavidRoberts":16421dg2 said:
.......there's no wonder if a chalk line is an acceptable marking method... :roll: ....

Standard practise if you're dealing with large lumps of green timber with no reference face. Don't roll those eyes too much.
 
transatlantic":23q3ufuk said:
Mechanical pencils are great, but I think a knife still wins for me as it also aids the cut too.
I don't think it is a case of one over the other. There is a place for a knife - particularly for hand tool work, but also a time to use a pencil - for visual clarity, rough marking and leave the line/take the line situations.



Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk
 
I only ever use one of these ( https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Giant-pencil ... 0677.m4598 ) nowadays. Sometimes I lose it for a while but then I look out the shed and see all the local kids have nicked it and are using it as a maypole to dance round and sing songs to the devil around. So its always easy to find.
I tend to sharpen it with a 9" grinder as this saves on HSS planer blades. It wont be everyone's solution to their pencil problems of course but when I tamp the lead down a bit, after an hour or two with a closely set capiron on the pencil sharpener I can get a good grade. Quite often after that I will mix my sharpening mediums. Japanese Waterstones, a diamond set. Occasionally a Washita Green with flecked almond paste. 6 or 7 hours later its done. Just Like That.
I have found that after many years experience I can get the lead down to about 7.7"
Which is great for fine work and an ambitious target for the beginners here to work towards.
I only use this pencil for my precision work though.
Obviously.
When I'm doing site work I tend to go for this
https://www.roadsideamerica.com/tip/49570
as it doesn't ride the grain so much. Little bit of ooompfh to it. It's a man's pencil. Quite literally.
You pays yer money you takes yer choices of course.
 
“Seems like hardly anyone uses mechanical pencils on this forum,there's no wonder if a chalk line is an acceptable marking method”

Perhaps Mr Roberts has jumped to a false conclusion as there are people on this forum who cannot be bothered to respond to his post.

I think the reality is that there are horses for courses (chalk line for the roughest timber; carpenter pencil for sawn timber) plus personal choices (sharpest pencil, mechanical or knife) for more precise work.

I would suggest that most experienced or sensible people would understand this?
 
“I would suggest that most experienced or sensible people would understand this?”

At a stroke Martin you have summed up the OP’s modus operandi which is to ask for advice, ignore that advice, deride manufacturers and label everything as either junk or proper junk.

I cannot for the life of me understand why people reply to him as he has already answered his question before posting.

Re-arrange this well known phrase.....”waste complete time of”.
 
Simou1":2qcz7yj5 said:
“I would suggest that most experienced or sensible people would understand this?”

At a stroke Martin you have summed up the OP’s modus operandi which is to ask for advice, ignore that advice, deride manufacturers and label everything as either junk or proper junk.

I cannot for the life of me understand why people reply to him as he has already answered his question before posting.

Re-arrange this well known phrase.....”waste complete time of”.


Where did you get this from? There was only one actual product recommendation in the thread, and the OP looks to have gone with a cheaper alternative that was mentioned here, but got info from another thread on the specifics.
 
Having used a regular mechanical pencil before I bought the pentel graph gear, the frequency of snapped leads from being dropped or knocked was a major irritation. The retractable mechanism really does make it much better suited to use in the workshop than the alternatives.

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Asked for a suggestion for a MECHANICAL PENCIL, 10 people started suggesting some other unrelated stuff , 1 person actually suggested something which was an actual mechanical pencil which looked decent, went on YT to see that Pencil VS others, concluded that the Kuru Toga Is really nice, went & bought the best version of it at £8 ( so actually more expensive than the suggested).

No wonder I don't listen to some ''suggestions'' when someone is trying to sell me on a chalk & other nonsense when I asked for a Pencil for precision work in first place..
go figure.. #-o
 
I suggested a pencil and someone else added it was a good piece of kit. You completely ignored both suggestions !

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I’ve got several more expensive pencils for drawing but these cheap PaperMate ones are great for the workshop.

1359478d8a865154abaa59fd9cdfd917.jpg


Rod
 
I cant say Ive ever tried a mechanical pencil for marking out, perhaps I will give it a go.

I tend to keep HB, H and 2H pencils -HB for face edge markings, H or 2H for line marking.

Really precise marking I would use a knife.

I prefer a mechanical pencil for drawing -Im going to order one of the ones recommended on here.

Im not sure I buy the: 'it doesnt matter how wide the line is caper'!
 
Been working wood since i was in school. Never came accross this problem before...

As most people have pointed out it doesn't matter how thick the line is if you are cutting the waste side.

Roberts is a character, sometimes you wonder if hes for real. At first i found him slightly irritating and couldnt be bothered to reply to him. Now i find his posts comedy gold. I have to commend those who persevere with educating him (yes mr roberts i know you like to think you are an expert but your questions and statements *see chalk give you up as an amateur)

Id love to see something this guy actually made or watch him in action. It has to be like a comedy sketch. The only question is..if this is how he is on here how long is it before his wife snaps. Mr roberts gets the pointy end and this forum needs a new joker..
 
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