Food safe finish

[Anthony Mason]

Hi Guys, I was asked to make a cheese and wine board, I will try to attach a photo i was sent, but as always the parting shot was “as long as it is cheap enough, i’ll Buy it”, so therefore i was left with no option on using a nice wood, so i used scraps of pine i had, i will try to add a photo of the one i made, but my question is what would be a good food safe finish for it, it shouldn’t go through the abuse of a heavy duty chopping board, but cheese, bread and grapes etc will be on it

Thanks for any advise

Sorry cant seem to add photos, it says the file is too big?

 

[lurker]

liquid paraffin BP

I buy it from places that sell horse stuff (country store types) horse owners use it as a constipation remedy.
Tends to be around £5 for 500ml

Don't try olive/walnut/ etc oils, as they go rancid

 

[Anthony Mason]

Thanks Lurker,
I,ve never heard of this liquid paraffin BP, so i had a google and as you say it is used as a laxative, I can only assume when applied and dried it looses its laxative properties, sorry if i am stating the obvious but i thought i better check as it going to have food on it and dont want to cause any issues, also does it enhance the looks of the wood or darken it in any way as at the moment it is plane and pale pine coloured, so would like to darken and enrich the look if possible, obviously i am no finishing expert so whatever advise i can get is great
Thanks

 

[CHJ]

Food safe Oil (Liquid Paraffin BP) is inert mineral oil, used as a laxative because the body just ejects it and acts as a lubricant.

In propriety form sold specifically for wood finishing it is often a Thinner Grade than normally sold at pharmacies to encourage it to penetrate the wood more readily.

There are numerous other finishes that are food safe, it's a case of reading the small print on the specific product to see if it is certified as such, not all distributers of similar sounding products have had their product tested to the appropriate standards.

 

[Rorschach]

I use mineral oil though in the future I plan to use flaxseed oil which is the edible version of Linseed oil, from my research it will provide a much harder wearing finish since mineral oil doesn't last too long when washed in hot soapy water etc as it's non-hardening. Flaxseed will harden, with some help. Boiled linseed is out of of course, you can buy raw linseed oil but I don't trust that to be food grade. They do make linseed oil for horses same as the mineral oil I use, so I might try that.

 

[lurker]

The bp bit is British Pharmocopia
which sort of guarantees the purity from dodgy contaminants.

 

[k4wils]

I’ve used lemon oil on bowls, cutting boards etc. Food safe and a nice lemon aroma!

 

[CHJ]

I’ve used lemon oil on bowls, cutting boards etc. Food safe and a nice lemon aroma!

Brand could be important regarding Food Safe, check labels & safety data sheets for product.

The one I use it White mineral oil (petroleum) (White Spirit?) based and is toxic if inhaled or swallowed.

 

[k4wils]

I’ve just looked under the sink, the usual storage place for such stuff and no joy.
It was bought as food safe but unfortunately I can’t remember the manufacturer. You are correct CHJ, I have just done a quick search and brands like Chestnut seem to have petroleum based products in them.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Some hardwax oils and Danishes are food safe, as obviously are vegetable oils (although it's generally recommended not to use olive as it can go rancid). Personally I wouldn't use P.Oil on something that's to be handled and look nice, I'd use either of the former. It depends whether you are selling - virtually any finish is safe once dry.

 

[CHJ]

From a practical point of view I think there is a very big difference in the definition of and generic comments about Food Safe, most finishes once cured and volatile solvents have dispersed will be fine with dry foodstuffs like a Nuts, Crisps, Fruit Bowls etc. There is a whole lot more to consider if using for Salad Bowls etc, where astringent dressings are applied that may react with the components of the finish which can then transfer to the food being consumed.

Soft fruit like Grapes, Pears etc, left in a bowl for a few days and starting to degrade will soon react with basic waxes and lighter polymerised oil finishes to wreck the finish. The only finish I've found resistant to leaking Grapes and the like is a multi coat of Melamine enhanced lacquer or a two part coating.

A some Oil finishes are non drying or at least take many days to polymerise or weeks to disperse enough so that they will not mark a polished surface if placed without a coaster.

A good test for the latter is to stand on a tissue for a while and see if the finish wicks out.
Unless the product is certified as FOOD SAFE on the labelling or manufactures literature the only one I would use in this none drying category if it's likely to come into close contact with food is the Liquide Paraffin BP.

All the above are of course only my perceptions of the subject but they are the criteria I personally use when considering a finish.

 

[thick_mike]

I use walnut oil on the kitchenware I make. Not super durable, but easy to apply and you can find it in your local supermarket.

 

[pcb1962]

I use this oil from Ikea
No idea what it is but it gives a nice finish.

 

[CHJ]

I use walnut oil on the kitchenware I make. Not super durable, but easy to apply and you can find it in your local supermarket.

For use just within the family or for gifts to others, Nut allergies can be fatal.

 

[CHJ]

I use this oil from Ikea
No idea what it is but it gives a nice finish.

I think if you read the label it is Liquid Paraffin BP, from my experience it's a slightly lighter grade (thinner than the Veterinary of Chemists product) but a little thicker than the Light Food Safe version available elsewhere.

I have all versions in my cupboard, the thicker stuff gets used on the more absorbent pieces the thinner viscosity versions on the more denser woods.

 

[Anthony Mason]

Thanks guys,
some great advise and as always lots to think about!
This forum is a fantastic resource for the likes of myself that are not experts, and finishing it definitely not one of my strong suits, so i usually stick with Danish oil and i have found this. http://www.yandles.co.uk/hampshire-shee ... afe/p21130
Any thoughts or experience with it?

 

[CHJ]

Danish oil, is another description that has become Generic, although usually consisting of a similar blend there can be differences between sources and they are not necessarily tested to the same standards or behave the same in all applications.

 

[thick_mike]

I use walnut oil on the kitchenware I make. Not super durable, but easy to apply and you can find it in your local supermarket.

For use just within the family or for gifts to others, Nut allergies can be fatal.

Ah, good point. Thankfully not an issue in my house.