table saw top not flat

[poodelek]

Hi everyone. Please advise. I own DW745 table saw which is out of flat near the insert plate by 0.02" comparing to the edge. It does effect my cuts and to get perfect 90 degrees I need to adjust the blade angle almost every time when I change a rip width. Dewalt do not give me an answer what manufacturing specs are. I am aware that there is a tolerance but I would like to know what is acceptable by standards. Dewalt say they can look at it (and charge me for it despite the saw is still under warranty) and tell me if its ok or not. I don't want just rely on their subjective opinion (I can imagine what the verdict would be), I believe there must be some guidelines saying what the tolerance is. How much off, would you say, is acceptable?

 

[MattRoberts]

That's a compact job site saw with (I presume) a cast aluminium table? I'm not sure it's designed to be particularly precise I'm afraid, so you may struggle to get them to see that sort of discrepancy an issue. If you're progressing to the point where you need more accuracy, it might be worth thinking of upgrading?

 

[Myfordman]

Assuming the edge of the table is say 8" from the blade and that edge is off by 0.02" as you say that is equivalent to an angular error of 0.15 degree or 9 minutes.
I can't see how that is much of a problem especially from a portable site saw.

 

[NazNomad]

As above, but if it's a huge problem sand 20 thou off the high spot?

 

[sunnybob]

I have a similar problem with my ryobi combi saw. The table is cast aluminium but there is a high spot in the centre. That is perfectly acceptable for the site work it was designed to do and there is no warranty claim on it, despite the fact it annoys me when I try to cut a 2" square stick of hardwood. I'm actively looking for a machine shop with a surface grinder to flatten it for me.

 

[poodelek]

thanks everyone, maybe I do I expect to much from site saw. I would not say I have a high spot, it's more like top is sagging it the middle around the blade. I would have to grind/sand 80% of the top surface to match the low spot, Im not sure how achievable that is

 

[Rorschach]

How about building up the low spot instead? Metal impregnated epoxy would likely do a fine job and then you could level it with the rest of the table.

 

[novocaine]

or if you never make full height cuts, a false table over it, a sheet of 22mm MDF will suffice.

 

[sunnybob]

If youre sure the sag is away from the blade square, then just fill it. mine is a rise, no way around it. I cant even add a ply surface because by the time I blocked it up level i'd only get about 30 mm of cut, plus there are several interlocks between the blade guard and the underneath mechanisms that have weird shaped holes in the table.

 

[Gregers]

or if you never make full height cuts, a false table over it, a sheet of 22mm MDF will suffice.

I've had a similar problem on an ageing, but otherwise surprisingly accurate, site saw. Got a local metal fabricator to make an exact replica of the aluminium table top in 20mm steel and I've now got a completely flat surface with no dip around the blade. As it's got a 12" blade there's still plenty of saw capacity left. There was a bit of faffing to re-drill bracket holes to raise the sliding carriage and fence by a commensurate amount but the end result is pretty good.

I am now wondering, though, if it wouldn't have been a lot cheaper to have simply gone down your MDF route. :lol:

 

[Bodgers]

or if you never make full height cuts, a false table over it, a sheet of 22mm MDF will suffice.

I've had a similar problem on an ageing, but otherwise surprisingly accurate, site saw. Got a local metal fabricator to make an exact replica of the aluminium table top in 20mm steel and I've now got a completely flat surface with no dip around the blade. As it's got a 12" blade there's still plenty of saw capacity left. There was a bit of faffing to re-drill bracket holes to raise the sliding carriage and fence by a commensurate amount but the end result is pretty good.

I am now wondering, though, if it wouldn't have been a lot cheaper to have simply gone down your MDF route. :lol:

Wow. I bet it isn't that portable now?!

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

 

[poodelek]

or if you never make full height cuts, a false table over it, a sheet of 22mm MDF will suffice.

I guess it is some idea but I would have problem with when fence

 

[poodelek]

How about building up the low spot instead? Metal impregnated epoxy would likely do a fine job and then you could level it with the rest of the table.

Thanks, I may go for that, need to do some research

 

[Gregers]

or if you never make full height cuts, a false table over it, a sheet of 22mm MDF will suffice.

I've had a similar problem on an ageing, but otherwise surprisingly accurate, site saw. Got a local metal fabricator to make an exact replica of the aluminium table top in 20mm steel and I've now got a completely flat surface with no dip around the blade. As it's got a 12" blade there's still plenty of saw capacity left. There was a bit of faffing to re-drill bracket holes to raise the sliding carriage and fence by a commensurate amount but the end result is pretty good.

I am now wondering, though, if it wouldn't have been a lot cheaper to have simply gone down your MDF route. :lol:

Wow. I bet it isn't that portable now?!

Sent from my MI 3W using Tapatalk

It probably isn't, but it's one of those 'site' saws that confines itself to wandering no further than one foot in any direction within my garage. :wink: