Is this bandsaw blade suitable for my application?

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julianf

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I have one of these -

Warco-startrite-Bandsaws-001.jpg

warco-jpg.127984


Also sold as -

f549cd62-1786-4c90-9f7f-5cf74437af50-jpeg.128124


etc.

Regardless...

I want a blade for it for straight cross cuts on thin (1/2 and below) hardwood. I do not need to cut tight, if any, curves. I would like a good finish to the cut, but do not want it to burn its way though!

I found this on ebay -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STARRETT...795062?hash=item4410923b76:g:wK4AAOSwvg9XbUuJ

Description -

STARRETT 2405MM / 95" / 7FT 10.3/4" X 5/8" X 14 RAKER BANDSAW BLADE CARBON


Is that the sort of thing i want, or is that going to be too high tpi? And is the 5/8 width going to be a help or a hinderence?

Ive done various searches, and it seems like the sort of thing i should buy, but if someone could just confirm, that would be great!

Thank you.
 
If I was you I’d get in touch with Ian at Tuff Saws and see what he recommends. He’s incredibly helpful and his blades are brilliant. I have a couple of them but to be honest I stuck his 1/2 inch 3tpi Sabretooth blade on my bandsaw and use it to cut everything (I don’t really cut much curved stuff). If you search Tuff Saws on the forum you’ll see they come highly recommended.
 
Hello,

The blade you show is too long!

I would probably use 10 tpi for ripping 1/2 inch stuff or even 6 tpi. 14 is a bit fine.

5/8 in wide needs a good bit of tensioning, check your saw is up to it. 1/2 inch is likely optimal. 3/8 is good too, TBH and a safe bet with light model bandsaws. It will cut straight.

Mike.
 
^^^^^ what he said. I've a larger saw than that, and I've not gone beyond 5/8". Unless you are using very thin wood all the time there probably isn't much need to go above 6TPI (and, yes, I know that is theoretically wrong :D ).
 
To save you possible delays as I had, Its best to remove the blade you have and measure it exactly rather than take the word of a sticker. My axminster machine sticker info was so far out that the blade length on the data plate would never fit on the machine.
as said, email Ian at tuffsaws and ask his recommendations as far as teeth and width. he's a true enthusiast and will not steer you wrong.

But heres some reading to go on with
http://www.allbandsawblades.com/blade_width.htm
 
Phone Warco 01428 682929 extension 212 and ask them what length blade you need, but as others have said buy one from Ian at Tuff Saws.

Mike
 
MikeG.":2rdrkl5n said:
I doubt that machine can tension a 5/8" blade properly.

Those pics are deceptive. Thats a 350 bandsaw by metric measurements, it should take a 5/8" blade.
of course, I dont think he NEEDS a 5/8" at all.
On my 350 i use a 3/8" or even a 1/4" on thin hardwoods and it works extremely well.
 
As Tuffsaw blades are the best around, don't buy inferior blades. Ian will talk you through what you need if you explain matters to him. He is difficult to get hold of so keep trying as its well worth it.

Malcolm
 
+another for Ian at Tuffsaws - when I emailed him about blades for an old Burgess I'd bought he replied pretty much by return with detailed recommendations. I think he must maintain a database, maybe he'll have come across your saw before.
Rob.
 
re: blade length -

Ive been chatting to people on another forum, who use 93 1/2 blades (the photo above is not mine) but this pdf on the axminster site says 98" -

https://knowledge.axminster.co.uk/wp-co ... 00x500.pdf

So i that is why i shortlisted 95" as it was in the middle of these two.

The unit has a blade on it at present, so i will take it off, and measure.

As above, the wheels are 350mm dia. Is this what, in a round about way, determines the max blade width?



I need to fit new tyres also, but that does not seem as simple as it could be (as in acquisition of tyres)
 
If there is any debate about the length, measure what you have but make sure it is somewhere in the mid region of the adjuster and not out at either end - just in case someone else has put the wrong length blade on it. The width of the tyre as much as the diameter of the wheel governs the width of the blade and the physical maximum is what is often quoted by (disreputable?) manufacturers, but the reality is that it is the strength of the frame that limits it as a weak frame cannot tension the blade properly. Most middle to bottom end saws have their capabilities exagerated, and it's probably wise to stay at least a size (in width) down.
 
As above ensure the wheel tension adjuster is in the middle of its range and measure the distance between the two wheel axels, multiply by two and add the circumference of one wheel = blade length, better I think than realying on what someone may have put on the machine.

Mike
 
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