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ok been looking into prices and ive been quoted around £3500 for a shed to be built and erected and most of those quotes would either use only 2 x 2 framework or even bearers that were only dipped which is not what I want. I think I can build it cheaper I just need to try and work out how to do this.

Floor will be 4 x 2 treated bearers held together with those metal clip things. As I cant get 17' lenghts of wood I guess I have to do it in two sections, hows best to join them? bolt the two frames together or screw or what? also would that be strong enough and do I need to double up the edges or anything? Finally what spacing should I use for the flooring ie 600mm or 450mm etc. Im trying to work out how much wood I need so I can price up the flooring.

Sides are going to be 3 x 2 framework so as its too big for the lengths I assume I again build and join the different sections together?

more questions to come but thats all for now.

thanks

Colin
 
Colin. Surprised you can't get 17' lengths. I found anything up to 6m (20') was easy to source from local timber merchant. If you can't get them, then you could just build two half frames then add an extra length across the joint, like staggered Flemish bricks. This would give you a strong base. The spacing will depend on your floor thickness, you may get away with 600mm and 25mm ply but for the extra cost and hassle handling big boards go with 450mm spacing and an 18mm Osb floor

My frames (front and back) were 20' X 6' tall,600mm centres, and they became pretty hard to manhandle on my own, looking back making two half frames and bolting together would have been sensible. I bolted my frames together with M10 galvanised bolts, they a a few quid for a pack of 10 from Toolstation and worked great.

F.
 
Thanks mate, Will try a few other merchants then as two I tried here said they didnt have any.

ok 450mm with 18mm OSB3 will be the way to go then.

Do I need to double up the sides and edges of the frame or will 1 single piece of 4 x2 or 3 x 2 be fine?

i think I will try and do some pics and upload of my idea and see what you all think.

thanks for responding Fitzroy.

Colin
 
Just got single edges in mine and other builds seem to only use singles, so should be fine.
 
ok heres another update so far.

Ive solved the issue (hopefully) with the dpm. I got some flashband flashing stuff from screwfix and used that to seal all the edges of the dpm against the concrete slab and then coated the whole lot with some grey sticky rubber fibreglass stuff which is 100% waterproof so hopefully now that will mean the slab stays sealed around the edges.

I was about to order the materials to build my own shed when a company came back to me with a quote for my shed which was quite abit cheaper than a few others I had received so after seeing some questions back and forth I have ordered from them so week of the 23rd October it should be delivered but I have to eract the panels which hopefully should be a do-able job. Ive ordered an 17' x 8'6" Apex shed, 4 x 2 pressure treated floor bearers, 3 x 2 treated framework. 19mm tongue and groove cladding. two large windows and 5ft wide double doors. Roof is poly coated metal with condensation barier and all wall framework will have breatheable membrane installed ready for me to then insulation and line the inside. I will order some 50mm sheets of kingspan or equivelant in advance so I can install that in the floor before the shed is built.

The double doors wont have enough space to open fully so may need to convert to bi-fold doors or even make sliding doors. Anyone recommend strong hinges to use to make the doors bi-fold or anyone have any ideas on how to make sliding doors? Could I use computer server rails as I work in IT and have loads of them lying around and they are built to hold some weight.

Think thats all for now.

Colin
 
Thanks all.

My sheets of 50mm Recticel insulation which is Jewsons equivelent of Kingspan have arrived today. I am away on holiday to Florida for 3 weeks and workshop is due to be delivered the Tuesday after I return so now im thinking of how I go about insulating the floor. Do I just cut this sheet to the correct width of the joists and slide it in place or do I need to use little noggins to hold in place or even staple strips of dpm across to hold it in place? Also is it a big issue if theres a few small gaps around the edges and can I just join pieces together or do they need taping with duct tape or something? I think I read somewhere about using expanding foam but if the gaps are only say 2mm then expanding foam seems overkill.

maybe I could use expanding foam in blobs to hold in place, is that a silly suggestion?

thanks inadvance.

Colin
 
OK another update with some pics (hopefully)

We arrived back from Florida (after dealing with Hurricane Mathew) on Sunday and my workshop turned up on a flat bed lorry. Each panel weighed a ton (not literally but close enough) and we set about unloaded etc.

The floor panels were coated in Creocote and then Recticel insulation was fitted and screwed in place so they wouldnt drop once the floor was turned the right side up. I also screwed 20mm thick perspex blocks to each 4 x 2 floor bearer along the lengths so the workshop then doesnt actually sit on the concrete floor. Hopefully this will allow more air circulation underneath and also prevent the bearers rotting due to rain etc.

The panels were then screwed together and eventually the roof, although the roof sections did have to be moved as I first installed with a overhang and then found out that it wasnt needed.

Next step is to insulate the walls and then fit vapour barrier and finally wood to warm it all up abit. Still loads to do but its good to see it coming together.

Anyway heres a few pics.....
 

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Nobody interested??

Any thoughts on the insulation, is rockwool ok for the walls and roof as B&Q have loft insulation on special at the moment for only £9 a roll.
 
Smart looking workshop and quite substantial for a ready made structure.

Personally, I would choose celetex sheet insulation, much better u value for a 75mm frame and less messy to fit.

The metal roof looks very good, I do wonder if there is risk of condensation as it isnt possible to convert it to a warm roof and there is no cold roof ventilation option. I guess if you insulate the roof and fit a vapour barrier, there wont be hardly any moisture able to hit the underside of the roof.
 
I looked into doing the workshop in celetex insulation for the walls but its going to cost way too much at the moment so have had to go with loft insulation, not my first choice but budget restraints dictated what I had to go with.

I have been stapleing the vapour barier on the battens but wondered if that is ok as I think I read somewhere about someone using some kind of tar stuff to completely seal the edges of the vapour barier sheeting so have I made a mistake or is staples good enough?

thanks
 
I now have to board around the windows and as I have large 8x 4 sheets they are going to cover parts of the window when fitted in one piece so am I best roughly cutting out the shape of the window and then using a router with flush trim bit while the board is in place to trim the wood around the window frame?

Or does anyone have an easier idea?

thanks

Colin
 
I boarded over my window openings with the complete board, then drilled a hole to stick the flush cut router bit through and routed round, worked a treat.

Fitz.
 
Fitzroy":1b75u3av said:
I boarded over my window openings with the complete board, then drilled a hole to stick the flush cut router bit through and routed round, worked a treat.

Fitz.

Thanks Fitz thats what I thought but just wanted to double check before I started it.

cheers

Colin
 
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