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There's lots of discussion on the safety of woods and finishes for particular uses, and you read lots of different positions. In the end, I decided to have a look at what woods larger commercial outlets were using for specific items, and stick with those.
 
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Copper beech with inlaid painted maple band.
 

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CHJ":2tghgmdl said:
Yosarian":2tghgmdl said:
I can't find any end diameters in your pdf, have I missed them? It only discusses "small parts".

Copy of TIE Article in JPG format Gives dimensions for Test Gauge for small components.

Thank you Chas I was looking for the other one I had which explained in better detail but I have so many files I was going cross-eyed.

Yosarian":2tghgmdl said:
Thanks. I can't find any end diameters in your pdf, have I missed them? It only discusses "small parts".

What other woods are considered safe? I note from the toxicity table beech is a sensitizer, can cause nausea, can cause irritation in eyes, skin, the respiratory system, dermatitis, decrease in lung function, eye irritation and nasal cancer.

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Sorry for not getting back to you see my reply to CHJ above.
As for wood as already mentioned it is the dust that can cause many of the problems in the toxicity list. Yes there are woods that are poisonous even if chewed.
Beech is a good wood for many things that is why you see it used for many cooking implements
 
CHJ":2q79tjvx said:
Yosarian":2q79tjvx said:
I can't find any end diameters in your pdf, have I missed them? It only discusses "small parts".

Copy of TIE Article in JPG format Gives dimensions for Test Gauge for small components.
I'm still not seeing anything relating to end diameters? Only requirements for not fitting entirely within the small parts cylinder, or for ball or ball like objects with a diameter of less than 44.5mm.

Sorry for labouring the point, I am just trying to follow though all comments to understand if:
1. What I have made is unsafe.
2. If so, how I can modify/remake it to be safe.

Interestingly, what you linked to would seem to prohibit ceramic baking beans being used if their diameter is less than 44.5mm ("no small balls in toys").

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Dalboy":13yel52q said:
CHJ":13yel52q said:
Yosarian":13yel52q said:
I can't find any end diameters in your pdf, have I missed them? It only discusses "small parts".

Copy of TIE Article in JPG format Gives dimensions for Test Gauge for small components.

Thank you Chas I was looking for the other one I had which explained in better detail but I have so many files I was going cross-eyed.

Yosarian":13yel52q said:
Thanks. I can't find any end diameters in your pdf, have I missed them? It only discusses "small parts".

What other woods are considered safe? I note from the toxicity table beech is a sensitizer, can cause nausea, can cause irritation in eyes, skin, the respiratory system, dermatitis, decrease in lung function, eye irritation and nasal cancer.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk

Sorry for not getting back to you see my reply to CHJ above.
As for wood as already mentioned it is the dust that can cause many of the problems in the toxicity list. Yes there are woods that are poisonous even if chewed.
Beech is a good wood for many things that is why you see it used for many cooking implements
No problem. Yes I agree wood dust in any form is not good for anyone, let alone little ones. And poisonous wood doesn't sound ideal either.

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
 
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Copper beech, finished with grape seed oil (on recessed section only) and wax, 36 cm diameter (approx.)
 

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Only had a Lathe a few weeks so just trying a few things.
Made this earing stand with box and a basic spike for rings.
Used a bit of cherry and shellac to finish.
 

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_MG_8523.jpg

Holm oak, about 8" diameter, finished with sanding sealer and wax. The wood was incredibly splitty, turned once from green, and filled with crystal clear resin.
 

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Plum wood. This wood is already beautiful. Nothing I have done with it has added to that.
Rough turned green, dried in it's own shavings for a couple of weeks, and then finished. I put some friction polish on it but it's a bit old and I didn't get as much of a shine as I was hoping for. Tried some paste wax on top but that didn't add any shine either. The BLO tinted the wood colour more than I was expecting so I wouldn't do that again.

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Steliz":2yvg953w said:
…. The BLO tinted the wood colour more than I was expecting so I wouldn't do that again.
Did you wait several days- maybe weeks, for the BLO to cure to a skinned surface before you applied the wax? If not you may just be blending the wax with oil residue and making it difficult to buff to a shine.
It may shine up more at a later date.
 
Bowl with stand, took a while as coloured and lacquered, lots of waiting time but leaves a good finish.
 

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_MG_8529.jpg

Walnut, finished with acrylic sanding sealer and wax. It's small and only 1" thick, the base turned with face ring and about 7mm depth of screw. At the centre is the pith, running through the bowl, and as it's decayed (presumably on the tree) it's formed a honeycomb-like pattern. I decided to finish with acrylic spray to try to reinforce the fragile structure but not affect its form (I did think of crystal clear resin but thought it might spoil it visually).
 

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Thanks for your kind comment, gregmcateer - it means a lot when you're still struggling to get things right on the lathe!

This one didn't have the option to cut along the pith, and the sapwood is stained a bit, but I like the knotting and grain:
_MG_8535.jpg

It's a bit bigger but now less than an inch thick, as the blank had some warping and needed turning down to level. Finished with grape seed oil this time, I might wax it once the oil's dry.
 

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I hope this works.

I was looking at the lovely things and thought to post a photo of the little jewellery chest my dad made for my mum when they got engaged in 1955, or there about. She kept her rings in it. He cut all the brass by hand with a chisel and stamped her name in the top. He stitched the padding inside too.

There are turnings he has done but this came to mind as something to share here as I get to know folks

Linda
 

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