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By MikeG.
#1302805
OSB: whichever way suits. And yes, if you can't get 100mm of insulation in, then get in what you can. With solid stuff either side, expanding foam is fine and a useful weapon in your armoury.
By DomD
#1303013
Ok, I have a gun so should be easy enough to apply.

Did the lower parts of the roof today:
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There are definitely gaps e.g. between boards and around the cutouts but hopefully not large enough to compromise the vapour barrier.

Do I just leave these sheets flying top and bottom? I will add an off-cut for the edge on the unsupported side of the cutout.

I then put one upper board up which took two people and lots of work
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- others won't go up until Saturday as I am out of osb; hopefully wall insulation and membrane tommorow.

Dom
By DomD
#1303101
John15 wrote:I'm enjoying your workshop build Dom. It's making my workshop look pretty shoddy!

John
Glad you're enjoying it, I'm avoiding taking photos of all the minor mistakes!

I've got the drip edge in now, onto cutting insulation.
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By DomD
#1303106
Door detail:
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Corner detail:
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Unconvinced about these but that seems the best I can get - should I fill any potential ingress points with silicone?
By DomD
#1303178
Wall insulation done
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Just adding the membrane now but it's not going too nicely around the corners. I may just make a cut and seal it with the tape?
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Will hopefully finish later tonight.
By DomD
#1303639
Have now done membrane on roof and walls - just gable ends to go.

First I put it on the walls:Image

Then I finished boarding the roof and added insulationImage
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Today I did the roof membrane. Really hard to get right, didn't help that I didn't realise you put battens on as you went, but the wind was what really made it tricky.
This was the first side I did, not perfect but I think the creases are exaggerated in the photo:
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The back side went on perfectly:
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Then I used a makeshift 'roofing ladder' to do the taping:
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I then added a ridge sheet but it was too dark for photos.

I have left this tonight with no battens on, though there are quite a few staples and the sheets are taped; hopefully it survives. I will add battens tommorow though may have to be temporary as not 100% on spacings.

I did have to staple below the overlap due to the high winds, will this impact the waterproofness of the membrane?

Dom
By mindthatwhatouch
#1304182
Hi Dom,
Cracking along nicely.
I may be a bit late with this but for the membrane, if you nail a metre length of temporary batten through the start of the membrane (ie on the fascia for the roof, or around the corner on a wall) leave the nails proud so you can remove it later. It holds the fabric nice and tight when you lay it out then do the same at the other end of the roof or wall. Once you’ve battened it out you can remove the temporary batten and cut the excess membrane.
It’s one of those jobs that an extra pair of hands goes a long way, especially when it’s windy.
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By MikeG.
#1304249
mindthatwhatouch wrote:......It’s one of those jobs that an extra pair of hands goes a long way, especially when it’s windy.


It's always windy when you use a membrane! It seems to be one of those immutable laws of nature.
By DomD
#1304265
Battens now on the membrane, rained last night and dry inside.
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Now I just need some doors - you can see the start of what I was doing in the interior photo.
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By John Brown
#1304283
Sorry for the dimb question, but dou you nail the battens on through the membrane?
By DomD
#1304367
John Brown wrote:Sorry for the dimb question, but dou you nail the battens on through the membrane?
I did and I think that is the right way as the battens need to be attached to the roof structure.
I assume the batten forms a seal, and water instead runs down over the membrane in the sag between the rafters.
By DomD
#1304500
For the door I am planning on a structure of OSB->insulated 4x2 frame-> shiplap. I think I will try to bend the hinges as demonstrated on Mike's workshop thread.

Is it a good idea to have breathable membrane over the frame (and perhaps a batten ventilated void) behind the door cladding? This would thicken the door quite a bit.

Also, what paint/primer should I be using over the OSB and how should I apply it? I have heard the cheaper HVLP spraters work resonably, though I could just use a roller.
Thanks
By DomD
#1304802
MikeG. wrote:Just be careful that door isn't too heavy. It sounds a monster.


I will see - maybe can leave the OSB off it.

I think I will use a couple coats of white masonry paint on the OSB3 - I've read this way I won't need to prime? I have also seen bedec barn paint recommended - unsure of how reliable any of this information is!