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By DomD
#1301342
Looking at roof and wall structure now:
For the roof I will have the breather membrane draped over the rafters and hanging over the end of the building enough to run into a gutter. Then will be battens at 1000mm centers and a metal box sheet roof.

The walls I am planning to use a breather membrane, battens at 500mm centers and then the feather edge. Corners will be this:
Image
not as elegant as Mike's solution but quicker and requires no rip cuts.

A few questions:
Is there any way to cover the breather membrane from below the rafter tails (so when you look up you see something other than just a membrane)?
How is the void between the roof battens ventilated?
How is the gap behind the top of the featheredge in the 'How to build a shed' diagram created with this eaves detail?

Thanks, Dom
By DomD
#1301360
Ah right.. what should I be using then? They are just schedules I have found online. I could cut down to two each?
By DomD
#1301465
Gable roof almost done - couldn't do final four sets of rafters as my last jigsaw blade, used to cut the notches for lookouts, broke.
Also added some of the eaves closers.Image
By DomD
#1301649
I was test fitting the sheathing today and have found a problem where it overlaps onto the blocks. Because of bowed timbers and slight misplacement the osb is unable to lie flat on across the overlap.
I see too potential ways to go around this:
I could just nail the sheathing on down over the blocks or I could cut the sheathing so it does not go below the timber frame; I would then need to find something to cover the blocks later.Image
By DomD
#1301758
Gable ends done; I added a 2x4 above the ends as a point to attach the sheathing.

Still unsure how I will solve the above issue if anyone has any ideas. Perhaps I could add some osb spacers between the sheathing and frames?

DomImageImage
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By MikeG.
#1301764
Four nails equals a bolt, I think. So two or three nails from the tie into each rafter end, and one or two into the plate, and you then don't need a bolt. Personally, I wouldn't nail so often, and I'd bolt, say, every third tie.
By DomD
#1302361
I've already nailed enough then so won't put them in.

Lots of progress - installed both gable ladders, planed down all eaves closers and have begun sheathing the inside with osb.
Image

The more time I spend on this the more I want to put something nice on the roof. I was having a look at clay tiles (used lots in our area) and may use them instead of a sheet.

I also am regretting not planning to put roof windows in - I know they are an extra expense but would provide far more light than the large window.
Would cutting through a rafter and adding double 2x6 'lintels' above and below the window opening be a possibility? The velux ones seem fairly straightforward to install.

Thanks
By DomD
#1302460
MikeG. wrote:If you are planning on using tiles, then cutting a rafter and trimming an opening is only do-able if you double-up the adjacent rafters.
If I were to install a proper (e.g. velux) roof window on an onduline roof (I checked and this is supported) would the extra rafters be required?

I have sheathed a gable end wall. The tops and bottoms are not nailed as they have nothing to nail onto; I assume that's not a problem as gable end walls are non structural?

Thanks
Image
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By MikeG.
#1302486
Put something on the plate (scraps of batten off-cuts, for instance) so that you can get some nails in along the free edge of that sheathing. You don't want flapping bits of OSB, as it can soon take on a shape of its own.

If you have an Onduline/ Coroline type roof then you probably don't need to double up the rafters around a trimmed opening......but check first that Velux have a suitable flashing kit for that type of roofing. You wouldn't want to end up with a hole you couldn't fill.
By DomD
#1302488
MikeG. wrote:Put something on the plate (scraps of batten off-cuts, for instance) so that you can get some nails in along the free edge of that sheathing. You don't want flapping bits of OSB, as it can soon take on a shape of its own.

If you have an Onduline/ Coroline type roof then you probably don't need to double up the rafters around a trimmed opening......but check first that Velux have a suitable flashing kit for that type of roofing. You wouldn't want to end up with a hole you couldn't fill.
Ok, will do that with the battens

Velux have a section in their guide for profiled sheets and have confirmed it works with coroline, I will just need to add a sheet overlap at the right place.
By DomD
#1302793
Final gable end boarded:Image

Then I went onto the roof window opening, dark photo unfortunately:
Image

There are certain places (e.g. under the lookouts) that 100mm insulation won't fit, should I just be filling this with expanding foam?

Finally, should the roof be boarded with osb horizontally or vertically?
Thanks