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By DomD
#1299636
MikeG. wrote:Great to see your progress, Dom. Like you, I'm always pleased to get out of the ground and start doing "the fun bits".

The concrete definitely stressed me out a bit just because I have never done anything like that before; probably quite a big job for a first.

Quick question on windows. The second hand uPVCs I bought do not come with sills, so I assume along with 5mm on each side for packing I add 40mm height in the opening for standard uPVC sills. This is the only video of UK windows being installed in a timber frame I can find - does that look like the correct method?

Thanks
Last edited by DomD on 11 Aug 2019, 08:15, edited 1 time in total.
By ManowarDave
#1299670
Can't speak for timber frame but have put in the odd one over the years to brick. The only concern I'd have with timber is over packing the spacers. If the timber swells you might struggle to open the window.

If you are looking at using expanding foam, mask off REALLY well. Sticks like dung to a blanket. And never, ever try to clean it up before it sets...DAMHIKT. After that one experience I've always just used frame sealant to fill the gap.

BTW, his saw in that video had me reaching for a scotch brite pad and some WD40 :D

Dave
By DomD
#1299676
ManowarDave wrote:Can't speak for timber frame but have put in the odd one over the years to brick. The only concern I'd have with timber is over packing the spacers. If the timber swells you might struggle to open the window.

If you are looking at using expanding foam, mask off REALLY well. Sticks like dung to a blanket. And never, ever try to clean it up before it sets...DAMHIKT. After that one experience I've always just used frame sealant to fill the gap.

BTW, his saw in that video had me reaching for a scotch brite pad and some WD40 :D

Dave
I will make sure not to pack too tight.

Another question: currently making largest header out of 2x8s but no plywood spacer (window). I'm going to glue then nail the header together before framing the wall. As I have double trimmer studs should I nail one to the king stud first then add the next to that?
I'm also putting header right up against top plate for all openings, and having cripples under that to the top of the opening.
May be too late for advice as I'm doing it now :p
Thanks
By DomD
#1299679
This is the largest header glued then nailed 3in apart on the red diagonals; on the alternate side nailed across the green line at 12in oc. I then nailed this beam to the king studs with 8 3.1in nails a side (4 per 2x).Image
By DomD
#1299736
MikeG. wrote:
DomD wrote:This is the largest header........


Stop watching American youtube clips! That's a lintel. :wink:
Heh - that's what happens when you get all your info from the web; is it 'trimmer' or 'jack' stud in British English?

The first and second lintels are now in place. Both glued, nailed with the pattern above: for the 2x8 I used 4 nails a 2x8 and for the 2x6 I used 3 per 2x6.

Lintels are right up against the top plate as in images.
ImageImage
By DomD
#1299919
DomD wrote:Image
Just realised I forgot trimmer studs for the door. Will add later.

Four walls up now but I have lost my helper and can't lift them on my own: rest will have to be tommorow. You can see the walls are quite high (maximum without planning permission).
Image

This is the view from the landscaped steps up:
Image
By DomD
#1299974
Drawn out plans for eaves detail: Image
Wondering if that looks okay. I assume the movement of air into the void below the roofing sheets and through the foam filler is enough ventilation? Does the foam filler also act as insect mesh?
Thanks
User avatar
By MikeG.
#1299987
You'll find that eaves closer difficult, and it doesn't provide anywhere for the top of the boarding to finish against. Take a look at my workshop build thread at The Woodhaven 2 to see photos of an easier and neater approach.
By DomD
#1299993
MikeG. wrote:You'll find that eaves closer difficult, and it doesn't provide anywhere for the top of the boarding to finish against. Take a look at my workshop build thread at The Woodhaven 2 to see photos of an easier and neater approach.


I have had a look and will switch over to that - looks simpler to execute too. Are those 22x150s against 50x100s? What boarding are you referring to? - as I plan to have exposed rafter tails.
EDIT: after further analysis they appear to be 50x50s and 50x150s

Other than that do you think the voids etc look reasonable and work with the metal box section roof?

Sorry for all the questions :)

Thanks
Last edited by DomD on 15 Aug 2019, 16:04, edited 1 time in total.
By DomD
#1300095
All walls up - I nailed the last in too soon and ended up having to use a hacksaw to cut through them to readjust to level.
Double top plate is also on, this is the state it will be left in for ~1week as I go to Scotland. Roof on when I return.
The walls are parallel ±10mm so fairly good I think.
Image
By DomD
#1300441
As far as loft insulation and wall insulation, is it just cheapest mineral wool with the required thickness? I will be using cavity batts in walls and roll insulation between rafters.

Do I completely fill the rafters leaving no gap between the membrane and insulation or should I get thinner insulation to allow the membrane to sag?

Thanks, Dom