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By DomD
#1296582
This is my planned 'schedule' for tomorrow:
1) Pour concrete and move to fairly even
2) Use poker to compact concrete in trenches
3) Use wooden board to screed concrete
4) Use float to push larger rocks below surface
5) [after I can step on concrete leaving 1/4in impression] float concrete with weight on two boards

I can't believe this but I managed to forget to buy an edging trowel! Is that much of an issue?
Thanks
By DomD
#1296618
Also forgot about electrical supply...
Done now sketchily - I imagine this will collapse in and I may have to manually place it in the concrete.Image
By DomD
#1296754
Concrete poured and screeded - some imperfections but overall ok. Used poker in ditches. Need to float later today.ImageImageImage
Last edited by DomD on 30 Jul 2019, 19:44, edited 1 time in total.
By DomD
#1296759
Woody2Shoes wrote:Very exciting! Don't forget to cover the top (esp. in this weather!) so it cures properly and doesn't risk cracking (first 72 hours are critical). Cheers, W2S
Thanks for the reminder! Any ideas how long till I should float - I'm thinking a couple hours but don't want to miss the ideal time.
User avatar
By will1983
#1296781
Just keep checking it with your thumb and a float. As soon as it's strong enough to stand on without making a mess of it it's soon enough to start floating.

Don't get to carried away with the floating though, like Mike said it's possible to over work it and get a surface that's no longer really suitable for a floor. A scattering of saw dust on a smooth surface can make it like an ice rink.

Also if you've got any rolls of hessian get that on it after you've floated and give it a good soaking with the hose. You'll have to keep drenching it in this weather or it'll dry out and crack. Concreting is not all about the prep and placing, curing is more important than all with regards to getting a quality result.

Looks like you had a bit of excess there, unless you are keeping that where its lying you need to get it moved as soon as its green enough to break up easily If you wait until it's cured it'll be a pig of a job to break up into pieces small enough to be movable.

Looks good by the way, especially considering you've not done any of this sort of work before. It's certainly more than most people would attempt so hats off to you mate!
By DomD
#1296808
Keeping it wet, have put dpm over it to slow evaporation. Dug out a lot of the excess and moved to bulk bags.

Very glad it's over with and I can move on to the more fun parts of the build.ImageImage
By DomD
#1297229
First two corners laid with help from a relative who is a former bricklayer - good to have someone with experience on hand.
Little slants due to slightly uneven corners (slab itself is flat).Image
Last edited by DomD on 30 Jul 2019, 19:45, edited 1 time in total.
By DomD
#1297365
What screws should I be using to screw the fir band strapping into the bricks?
Also if I build the longer walls in two sections, is connecting them together with nails through each side stud and at the double top plate acceptable?
Thanks
By DomD
#1297618
I'm going to use these screws for attaching the strapping.

I have been doing some more brickwork and the back wall is now complete. Frog is up on the top course - should that be filled before dpc goes down?Image
By DomD
#1298019
Quite a few bits done over past few days:
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First I finished off the brickwork... Not perfect but I'm happy with the two facing sides.

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Next I used a hammer drill to drill into the concrete - went through it very easily, I suppose it has not reached full strength yet.

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Then I screwed down the metal strapping- first time using an impact driver and I'm confused as to why i didn't get one earlier!

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Then I attached the blocks, sawn in half with a dodgy jig so there is some slant in each. There are some gaps between the blocks and bricks which I will fill with grout.

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I also got the windows, the big one is 1870*935mm and the smaller is 480*750. I plan to use doubled up 2x8s for the header over the larger.. will put in one trimmer stud which I believe is enough for a window of this size. Is it fine to put the header right up against the top plate and add cripples below so the window could be moved up in future?
Thanks
By DomD
#1299344
Did some more earlier this week - hope to get walls constructed and up next week but am away at the moment.

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I filled in all the frogs and added a thin layer over the blocks and bricks to create a smooth surface for the frame to sit on. You can see slab is not completely flat as water runs to back - this must have been down to an imperfection in the cleat or bow in timbers.

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Then this arrived... all the timber for the walls (and sheathing for everything, 11mm osb).

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Then I cut all the studs down to length (2090mm, tall ceilings I know but still below 4m at ridge with 30° roof).

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Marking up all the walls, went for a double trimmer for this window in the end. Used 24in oc spacing.

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These are my corners (California corners).

Also got a paslode nail gun and will be using 90mm smooth galvanised nails for the frame so it should go together quickly.

Dom
By DomD
#1299605
Three walls framed today and braced; hopefully last tommorow.
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Finished walls.

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Measuring diagonals.

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Braced walls (with 25*50s).

I am face nailing the frames with 2 3in nails per stud face.