Oak and Iroko Utility Worktop Finish

[Jamster21]

Hi everyone,

I have aquired an old chemistry lab type bench top, thought to be Iroko and I'm going to skim the top off it and fit as a utility room worktop. It doesn't fill the space so I am intending to use jointed oak boards to fill the gap.

Question is, how should I finish this? I had thought about PU as I may well mount a sink on top of the iroko piece. Any other thoughts? I don't need / want a top end finish but rather something that is robust for a fairly busy room.

Cheers,
Jamie

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

I would be inclined to use good old fashioned oil based varnish, it is very waterproof and hard wearing. PU is also waterproof and hard wearing but if it starts to crack and peel...and it always does you will have little option but to strip it off and start again. With varnish you will just need to flick it down and apply another coat. Also PU is horrible stuff to work with!

 

[ED65]

Also PU is horrible stuff to work with!

Are you referring to two-pack stuff??

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

Yes. Is there any other?

 

[ColeyS1]

I thought they were the same thing. Polyurethane oil based varnish- ronseal for example

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[Phil Pascoe]

Single pack PU is much different to two pack stuff. The counters in what used to be my local were done in two pack, they're now wearing through on the edges. Not bad for twenty years in a busy bar.

 

[ColeyS1]

Cheers Phil. For some reason I'd always thought those finish's were epoxy- learn something new everyday !

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[ED65]

Yes. Is there any other?

I presume oil-based polyurethane varnishes are what most here would think of when poly is referred to generically.

 

[Jamster21]

I would be inclined to use good old fashioned oil based varnish, it is very waterproof and hard wearing. PU is also waterproof and hard wearing but if it starts to crack and peel...and it always does you will have little option but to strip it off and start again. With varnish you will just need to flick it down and apply another coat. Also PU is horrible stuff to work with!

Thanks very much - any particular brands? I found both this thread on wiping varnish https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post992111.html?hilit=varnish#p992111 and this one on Ronseal useful... https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/post847456.html?hilit=varnish#p847456

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

I have never tried wiping varnish but always thought it was more a finish for furniture, Any yacht vanish will do the job such as this one https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense- ... 5ltr/95447
If you want a 'best' quality varnish, your local ships chandeliers will be the place to go.

 

[ED65]

Jamster, couple of things to mention in case you don't know. First is that any varnish can be converted to 'wiping varnish' by thinning it down somewhat. Generally the advice is to thin by about 1/3, but you can actually thin by any amount you wish and varnish with tolerate it. The tradeoff is the more you dilute the slower the build, so best practice is probably to thin by the least amount that'll get it to act the way you want, which could be as little as 1:5 or 1:6 (it's quite surprising how much difference even modest dilution can make).

Second is just to do with varnish types. Spar varnishes are made for exterior use (marine environments in the case of proper ones that you'd get at a chandlers) and formulated with higher oil levels to deal with expected conditions. This may be key for a working surface in that the extra oil makes them softer. If you want maximum durability on an interior surface that's intended to take some abuse oil-based polyurethane varnish is the way to go.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Osmo.

 

[ColeyS1]

Probably worth wiping down/degreasing with meths before applying the finish. It'll help it adhere.

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[Jamster21]

Thanks for your responses everyone, much appreciated. Will send some images around or heaven forbid a WIP!

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