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By Jar944
#1334907
This was a quick jig that turned into a machine. I threw it together for notching beaded cabinet face frames. Its not as quiet as a morso, but was relatively inexpensive. I had less than $100 US in the parts (not counting the router and bit)

https://youtu.be/jjV2hB7MpH8

https://youtu.be/k58IAsGoMWE

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By Jar944
#1334930
Ha, sure. It's a machine that cuts a notch in the rail or stile of a face frame as part of the jack miter for the bead.

Mark out the parts (only one is needed I'd they are all thr same as I use stops to keep them identical)
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Place the part into the machine, activate clamps and make the cut.
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Using a stop the same setup miters the ends of the rails/stiles
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Check the fits
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If everything is good, make the bead cut on the spindle moulder/ shaper or router table
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Then assemble
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By Jar944
#1334931
deema wrote:Great idea, well done.
Which router bit do you use?

It's the kreg notching bit part number prs4200. They make different sized bits for single pass cuts, but with this machine I just make and additional pass (with a spacer) to get the correct width cut.

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By Jar944
#1334957
This specific kitchen has approximately 75 panels (door, drawer or false end panel) in 20 ganged together frames.

I have 2 more kitchens after that, then a library and study to build out.

So is short, a lot. This is the current pile waiting to be cut to length then notched.
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By Jar944
#1334972
Thanks. I'm really happy how consistent it is on the cuts. That was one of the reasons I built it. It goes without saying the parts have to be very consistent and machining spot on in width for all of this to work together.

This was directly off the machine
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And this is after glueup, but before any sanding or cleanup
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By ColeyS1
#1334975
Without the cockbead it looks good. With the mould added slap my bum and call me Shirley it looks ace !! I made loads back in the day as an apprentice with mortice and tenons and paring with a chisel. This looks so much quicker and the results the same so it's a worthwhile method of doing it ;@)

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
By Jar944
#1335439
The nice thing about this notcher it that if you wanted to build the frames with mortise and tenons you could just as easily as without. It's as simple as indexing off the shoulder. Helps if you have a tenoner or tenon discs for the spindle / shaper.

A afternoon's worth of notching.
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User avatar
By ColeyS1
#1338616
What's the name of the pneumatic hold down thing you use? My tenoner has a very poor hold down lever arrangement. I've seen the same tenoner with a similar thing to what you are using.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
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By Trainee neophyte
#1338635
Very impressed - watching the video, one thought was a foot switch might be helpful. Or at the very least, putting the switch on the other side of the workpiece so you don't have to reach across yourself. Trivial observation - don't mind me.
By Jar944
#1343447
ColeyS1 wrote:What's the name of the pneumatic hold down thing you use? My tenoner has a very poor hold down lever arrangement. I've seen the same tenoner with a similar thing to what you are using.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk


Sorry I missed this.

The clamp is just a 1.75" bore air cylinder. Its a single acting, spring return model. (Amazon purchase, about $25 US)

Air cylinders make great clamps. I have another on my pocket hole machine and plan on adding them to my spindle moulders and tenoner
By Jar944
#1343448
Trainee neophyte wrote:Very impressed - watching the video, one thought was a foot switch might be helpful. Or at the very least, putting the switch on the other side of the workpiece so you don't have to reach across yourself. Trivial observation - don't mind me.


It has a foot switch that operates the router plunge mechanism, so it would be difficult to add another. Though adding a second switch to the other (right) side so either switch could activate the clamp is a good idea.