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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2017, 13:18 
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If using a sheet of ply for a router table am I correct in thinking that a collet extension is required or you will only a minimal depth of cut?
Russell


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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2017, 13:27 
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Alder wrote:
If using a sheet of ply for a router table am I correct in thinking that a collet extension is required or you will only a minimal depth of cut?
Russell


I will be routing out a recess for the router base to sit in below the surface of the table. Might take 5-6mm off my cut depth but I am ok with that.


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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2017, 14:46 
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If you remove the plastic base from the router you will gain about 5mm extra depth of cut, that's what I did and I removed enough material from the back side so that it equalled the thickness of the plastic plate, therefore I haven't lost any depth of cut at all with my table.


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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2017, 15:08 
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Can you expand on the part about a lead on pin please

And do you mean for use with the type of bit as per attached?

If its that type of bit, whats the need for a lead pin?

Just trying to understand if I need one and why


E.

Small PS: I'd add a removable block nearer the router, as a "lead-on pin" for bearing-guided shape routing "freehand". But it's a very simple thing and will only take a few secs to do whenever you first need it.[/quote]


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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2017, 15:42 
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Rorschach wrote:
If you remove the plastic base from the router you will gain about 5mm extra depth of cut, that's what I did and I removed enough material from the back side so that it equalled the thickness of the plastic plate, therefore I haven't lost any depth of cut at all with my table.

yep - was thinking of this too - just have to check my router base and see how to get it off.


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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2017, 16:16 
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On mine (Katsu) it was just 4 screws and I used these same 4 screws to attach the base to the table.


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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2017, 19:19 
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Sorry to hijack the thread (slightly) , what sort of wax do you use to make plywood slick ?

Thanks


Paul

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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2017, 20:50 
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Pretty much any wax will do the job, even a candle. I use clear briwax


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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2017, 22:27 
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The starter pin is vital when you are first starting out.
If you don't use one, when you first put the wood to the cutter it will grab and throw the piece clear across the room.

You should place the wood firmly against the starter pin, make sure your fingers will not get anywhere near the bit, and slowly rotate the wood into the bit. Once the cutter is fully into the wood and the top (bottom) bearing is engaged with the wood, you can then start to move the wood around the cutter.

Later on, with much experience, it is possible to do without the pin. I now just use the fence as a resting point, but still don't just go in freehand


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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2017, 09:08 
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MattRoberts wrote:
Pretty much any wax will do the job, even a candle. I use clear briwax
Thanks Matt

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