Moderators: Random Orbital Bob, nev, Noel, Charley, CHJ

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By Alder
#1193415
If using a sheet of ply for a router table am I correct in thinking that a collet extension is required or you will only a minimal depth of cut?
Russell
By Stevedimebag
#1193420
Alder wrote:If using a sheet of ply for a router table am I correct in thinking that a collet extension is required or you will only a minimal depth of cut?
Russell


I will be routing out a recess for the router base to sit in below the surface of the table. Might take 5-6mm off my cut depth but I am ok with that.
By Rorschach
#1193449
If you remove the plastic base from the router you will gain about 5mm extra depth of cut, that's what I did and I removed enough material from the back side so that it equalled the thickness of the plastic plate, therefore I haven't lost any depth of cut at all with my table.
By whatknot
#1193453
Can you expand on the part about a lead on pin please

And do you mean for use with the type of bit as per attached?

If its that type of bit, whats the need for a lead pin?

Just trying to understand if I need one and why


E.

Small PS: I'd add a removable block nearer the router, as a "lead-on pin" for bearing-guided shape routing "freehand". But it's a very simple thing and will only take a few secs to do whenever you first need it.[/quote]
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By Stevedimebag
#1193459
Rorschach wrote:If you remove the plastic base from the router you will gain about 5mm extra depth of cut, that's what I did and I removed enough material from the back side so that it equalled the thickness of the plastic plate, therefore I haven't lost any depth of cut at all with my table.

yep - was thinking of this too - just have to check my router base and see how to get it off.
By PaulR
#1193508
Sorry to hijack the thread (slightly) , what sort of wax do you use to make plywood slick ?

Thanks


Paul

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk
By sunnybob
#1193542
The starter pin is vital when you are first starting out.
If you don't use one, when you first put the wood to the cutter it will grab and throw the piece clear across the room.

You should place the wood firmly against the starter pin, make sure your fingers will not get anywhere near the bit, and slowly rotate the wood into the bit. Once the cutter is fully into the wood and the top (bottom) bearing is engaged with the wood, you can then start to move the wood around the cutter.

Later on, with much experience, it is possible to do without the pin. I now just use the fence as a resting point, but still don't just go in freehand
By PaulR
#1194003
MattRoberts wrote:Pretty much any wax will do the job, even a candle. I use clear briwax
Thanks Matt

Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk
By Chris152
#1243801
I'm thinking of doing a table for a Katsu following this plan. Rather than cutting a recess to depth for the router to attach to, could I cut a hole right through, then laminate a sheet of 6mm ply over the table top, attach the router to the ply (and drill a smaller hole in the ply for the cutter/ collet)? I think I'd find that easier but would it work?
By sunnybob
#1243807
A revived thread! =D>
Chris, an unusual approach, but nothing to stop you. As long as you have access to adjust the height and replace the bit on that router.

If access is restricted, it would be simpler to make a smaller ply insert so you could lift the router and insert out for bit changing.

Think it all through before you start, changing bits needs to be simple and easy, or youll soon have to make yet another table.

8 months on, and I have to admit i no longer use the starter pin. i just go straight in with the piece firmly and safely held.
By Rorschach
#1243810
Yes I think that would work fine, play is not a super smooth surface though so you might want to consider that, it's why I used MFC.

I am considering an upgrade on this table, it works nicely but I fancy something a little bit smarter. Either i am going to use some aluminium sign board for the top and a similar fence/base system, or I am also considering making a fitting for my table saw so I can make use of the table saw fence and mitre gauge. Not decided yet, no panic for it.
By Chris152
#1243816
Ok, just ordered one, arriving tomorrow. i think you're right Bob, I need to look carefully at it and figure what'll work - at the moment it's totally abstract, I've not even used a router before. And for the moment Rorschach, your design'll be just fine I think - when I get the hang of it I can think about improvements. We'll see...

I was thinking to get a couple of straight router bits from axminster - I don't want to do complex profiles, just shallow grooves for inserting other strips of wood.
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By Bm101
#1243823
Might want to have a look at wealden bits Chris. I don't have anywhere near the experience to recommend bits but each time the question of router brand bits gets mentioned they get overwhelming commendations. Nothing against the axis ones btw.
Excellent service and bits for the few times I've bought from them.
Might help. Just a heads up.