Meddings Driltru Mark II / Respect to Meddings

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El Barto

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I picked this up yesterday after winning it on eBay for £200. It's in good working condition although the on/off dial is broken so the previous owner stuck on a light switch by the looks of things. Anyway, it works.

8TsJpi8.jpg


I called Meddings today to enquire about spare parts and they were so helpful. They identified the machine as being made in 1971 and emailed me the equivalent part to review and some scans. Their replacement part is going to be £200ish (!!!) and they can't source the original dial as it no longer meets standards, a shame. I'll stick with the bodged light switch for now. Still though, I appreciated the customer service.

Good job Meddings.
 
phil.p":1mzqmg7j said:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/KJD17-Release-Switch-Workshop-Machines/dp/B075JK4QY3/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1512046347&sr=8-4&keywords=no+volt+switch

I used one of these on mine - cut a hole out of the original plate.


Hey Phil, I’m just installing the new switch but the on button doesn’t stay on. You have to hold it down to keep the drill running. Any tips? I have a hunch that the p/o installed the light switch for this reason - it physically clicks on.
 
El Barto":2gyamyc0 said:
Thanks Phil! Just found this one incidentally...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/URBEST-KAO-5-S ... off+switch
El Barto":2gyamyc0 said:
Hey Phil, I’m just installing the new switch but the on button doesn’t stay on. You have to hold it down to keep the drill running. Any tips? I have a hunch that the p/o installed the light switch for this reason - it physically clicks on.

If your switch is the one you've linked to above, it appears to be a mechanically latching switch. Unfortunately there's not much to go on in the amazon listing. If you have to hold the button in, that can only mean the switch is defective. The previous owner's use of a lightswitch has nothing to do with it. I strongly suggest changing it for a proper NVR switch.
 
DTR":2u7skza2 said:
El Barto":2u7skza2 said:
Thanks Phil! Just found this one incidentally...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/URBEST-KAO-5-S ... off+switch
El Barto":2u7skza2 said:
Hey Phil, I’m just installing the new switch but the on button doesn’t stay on. You have to hold it down to keep the drill running. Any tips? I have a hunch that the p/o installed the light switch for this reason - it physically clicks on.

If your switch is the one you've linked to above, it appears to be a mechanically latching switch. Unfortunately there's not much to go on in the amazon listing. If you have to hold the button in, that can only mean the switch is defective. The previous owner's use of a lightswitch has nothing to do with it. I strongly suggest changing it for a proper NVR switch.

The reason I surmised about the light switch is that it very clearly has ON or OFF. Whereas this switch doesn't. Both the on and off buttons just push in without a click or whatever, similar to something like a keyboard key. You press it in but it doesn't hold.

Anyway, perhaps you're right and it's defective.
 
One of the customer reviews for that cheap switch says that the one the reviewer bought had to be returned as it was turning itself on. Not ideal.
It may be that you've been unlucky in buying one of a dodgy batch of switches. I've used a few Chinese NVR and emergency stop switches and not had a problem but there's a reason they're cheap I suppose.
I'm not convinced that buying an identical looking item from a UK supplier for more money is the solution as they're all likely sourced from the same place. Just luck of the draw I think.
 
Hot stuff":1w6g5opy said:
One of the customer reviews for that cheap switch says that the one the reviewer bought had to be returned as it was turning itself on. Not ideal.
It may be that you've been unlucky in buying one of a dodgy batch of switches. I've used a few Chinese NVR and emergency stop switches and not had a problem but there's a reason they're cheap I suppose.
I'm not convinced that buying an identical looking item from a UK supplier for more money is the solution as they're all likely sourced from the same place. Just luck of the draw I think.

You make a good point. The one I bought is actually the same make as the one in the first Axminster link earlier. I don't think it's faulty though, it's just the wrong switch for the job annoyingly.
 
Elbarto

I haven't read the whole thread, but you did have power going into the switch when you tested it, didn't you, latching relays will not work unless powered and there will be no click from the switch, just the relay, unless its a very expensive electronic version.

Mike
 
MikeJhn":1bxi2hyy said:
Elbarto

I haven't read the whole thread, but you did have power going into the switch when you tested it, didn't you, latching relays will not work unless powered and there will be no click from the switch, just the relay, unless its a very expensive electronic version.

Mike

Hi Mike,

So there needs to be constant power feed to the switch itself as well as feeds for on/off?? In that case, no. There are four pins on the switch, two for each button (I assume). And coming from the drill there are two feeds - on and off. :-k
 
It just seems that the hold relay is not kicking in, what is the voltage getting to your workshop? It may be that a long cable run to the shop may reduce the power sufficiently to prevent the relay from operating.

Interesting that you say two feeds from the drill, do you mean two feeds or one red and one black? assuming the age of the drill has non harmonised colours.

Mike

From the Axminster site description:

The switch uses push on terminals, with mains supply in on terminals 1 and 3 and power out on terminals 2 and 4
 
MikeJhn":2jm6c7if said:
It just seems that the hold relay is not kicking in, what is the voltage getting to your workshop? It may be that a long cable run to the shop may reduce the power sufficiently to prevent the relay from operating.

Interesting that you say two feeds from the drill, do you mean two feeds or one red and one black? assuming the age of the drill has non harmonised colours.

Mike

From the Axminster site description:

The switch uses push on terminals, with mains supply in on terminals 1 and 3 and power out on terminals 2 and 4

It could be that the power is insufficient. I was running it through two extension cables but unsure of the voltage at the supply. I tried a bunch of different configurations to wire the switch. There were only two noteworthy outcomes: either I had to hold down the on button for the drill to work, or the drill wouldn't work but I could hear the on button latching.

I got bored with it in the end and fabbed up something with some bits I had lying around. Not ideal but it works and it's better than what was on there before!

5EIMJnZ.jpg


ABLFk39.jpg
 
If the relay latches it should work, what sequence of connections did you have when you heard the relay latching i.e. mains phase to ? mains neutral to ? motor phase to ? motor neutral to ? As far as I can make out it should be Mains phase to 1. mains neutral to 3. motor phase to 4 assuming that 1 and 4 connect when the switch is pushed?

Mike
 
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