Making a window with basic tools (lots of pics)

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JFC

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Well seing as i dropped myself in it i thought id better get on with it :lol:
The aim is to show how to build a window with very basic or cheap tools (the way i started making things as i built up my workshop and work load ) I will be using my bigger machinery to speed up my progress but i will try and show the tools that i used to use .

To start i measured my old window , i had to remove the arcitrave to get the outside measurements of the frame . My window is 540 mm wide X 1220 mm high and the cill over hangs on the outside by 70 mm each side , there is also a top opener and a bottom opener .
I'm going to make the new window to comply with the regs so it will be rebated to take a 4mm , 16mm gap , 4mm k glass double glazed unit .


First the frame ,

I took some old stock from my timber rack and cut two side rails at 1240mm , a top and mid rail at 560mm and the cill section at 680mm .
(please note the detailed drawing at the bottom of the picture)

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I then marked out one side rail and one cross member and transferred the marks over to the other members .

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For the side rail i allowed 10mm waste 45mm for the cill then up to mark out the mid rail 45mm and then up to the top rail at 1230mm (adding the 10mm waste allowed at the bottom) and then measure back 45mm for the top rail . The cross members where 10mm waste 45mm , 550mm and back 45mm .
The 45 mm is to allow for the joints . I hope that made sense :shock:

I then had to mark out the mortice and tenons , i hold the tape across the timber to read 120mm or what ever is easiest to divide into 3 . 120mm lets me mark off at 40mm , 80mm and i can set my mortice gauge to those points .


DSC00297.jpg


Time to start cutting , i mark an M for mortice and a t for tenon on all my parts as the bigger the window or windows the more parts you have and could chop off the wrong bit . The mortices on the top and cill can be ripped down with a saw as the will be an open ended mortice and tenon anyway .

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The cross grain on the mortice holes can be drilled out with a 3d bit and cleaned up with a chisel . I still do this for my frames as it's quicker than setting up the mortice machine for one offs .

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For the mid rail you will need to cut out on the back of the mortice for the wedges

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Cut the cheeks off your tenons , you could set the depth stop on your chopsaw if you have one but again for one offs i just cut them by hand as it's quicker .

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don't forget to keep your tenon cheeks as they are one third the size of your timber so ideal to make the wedges .

I find it a good idea to make sure my joints are a good fit as i cut them and number them if i'm doing a big window as by the end you could have loads of parts that look the same .

Thats it for this instalment . 1/2 the frame made but it was getting a bit late to be banging out the rest of the mortice holes .


DSC00306.jpg
 
I hope its ok , i'm afraid i'm no expert when it comes to explaining things and showing pics that explain things but i did my best :oops: I'll try and do a bit more tomorrow .
 
Thank you so much Jason

I never made doors or windows and it is very interesting for me.

Looks like next time I'll visit Japan, I'll have to buy a few good Japanese saws and chisels since on my garage door it's written "No entry to hand tools"...well, I shall have to "jump to the cold water" one day...:)

Thanks
niki
 
nice one jason, thanks.

worryingly looks like you have tidyied up since my last visit???
sure you can find things???

your words are perfect when put in with the pictures

paul :wink:
 
I did have a tidy up after the fire and promised myself to keep it that way as it was a pleasure to work that way ........but i'm so busy it's mayhem again :cry:
 
More Please :D

I find myself keep logging on to check any further updates :shock:

I really do need to get out more i know :D

Still where i live (#-o ) I think am going to light the woodburner and get the coffee on :D

Thanks for your time and effort =D>
 
Thanks JFC. Looking forward to the next installment.

Quick question - what's the timber you're using & what would you recommend for windows? TIA.
 
I'm using Meranti but Sapele would be better . A good quality softwood would also do , like Douglas fir . Most of the windows i do are either Meranti or a Joinery grade redwood .
 
I've finished the rest of the mortices so now the frame is ready for glue up .

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Once the joints are glued and put together check for square and add your clamps . I clamp up and use 3" screws to hold my open M&T 's together .



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Once the open joints are done it's time for the wedges

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I now remove the clamps so i can check for square and wind , i like to make sure every thing is in order before the glue dries and to be honest with the screws and wedges in place the joints are going nowhere .
To check for square i use a pinch rod , a nail in a bit of wood . Put the nail into one corner and mark of the diagonal corner , now do the same to the other diagonal , if the mark is in the same place your square , if it's not (hammer) (hammer) (hammer) it till it is .


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Now check that the window frame is in wind , if you look along the top of one rail and it meets the bottom of the other rail when you move it up and down with your line of vision then its in wind

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If it's not (hammer) (hammer) (hammer) it till it is :lol:
you will need to pull it into wind the same as squaring it so by holding one diagonal against something and pulling the other diagonal round you should be able to pull it into wind . This is why i take the clamps off right away , so i can do all this if needed while the glue is still wet .


Now we are square and in wind you can replace the clamps if you like , i don't bother and get on with cleaning up . So cut off all the 10mm overhangs and 10mm tenons sticking out of the mortices . If moving the frame around alot then it's a good idea to leave the top and bottom horns on to protect the corners until it's ready to be fitted .

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A final clean up of the glue and a quick sand up and our frame is ready to measure for the openers and stop beads .

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If your window frames are bigger than this one i.e. have a middle upright or two then the process is the same at marking out as the side rails but when you are cutting them instead of cutting a mortice for the mid rail cut the timber in the middle of that joint and do two stop tenons on them and put the mortice holes in the mid rail .
 
Something not right here.
Is it just me isn't there a fundamental problem in your frame. Frames usaully have rebates which the opening window or door closes against. The rebate is the secondary weather defence and where building reg require you to have a weather seal, I fit the Aquamac 21 to frames I've done.
The bottom cill is completely wrong in my mind. Even if you put slap on strips for rebates your going to have problems.
Just my take on it though.

Please correct me if I've missed something here. :?

Alex
 
Your quite right if you want to build things the "new way" i prefer the "old way" tried and tested for a few hundred years and allowing for the new glass regs . I'm glad for your input though , this is just the way i do it .
 
hi jason
welcome to the forum :lol: :lol:
have you ever considered doing an article for the magazines ???
im sure youd turn "fine woodworking" into a best seller
keep up the good work mate
are you sure you dont do this for a living ???
 
Hi JFC, I look forward to the learning curve. :lol:

I find the more I learn the less I know. Well ignorances is bliss! :lol:

Alex
 
Adding seals seems to be the trend for some reason . I cant see why you would want to cut a rebate into a brand new frame to add a seal that will last a couple of years before it splits , stops the door or window from closing and is a PITA to paint around aswell as trapping water. These seals also mean you have to hang the door / window away from the stop so when it does get ripped out your left with a gap and have to go through the whole process again .

These frames are about 120 years old and have plant on stops . The frames are fine and i'm making new openers for them .

DSC00317.jpg



I agree with you on the cill section , the idea of this thread was to show how to make a window with basic tools , this means i bought in the timber sections rather than making them . The cill section i have has a 4" flat and a 2" bevel . It would be better to have a 2" flat and a 4" bevel but it doesn't . Adding a weather bar to the window should stop any water sitting on the flat .
 
Jason

Do you add a cold stop groove around your frames? Also what about a drip groove?

Scrit
 

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