Moderators: Random Orbital Bob, nev, CHJ, Noel, Charley

By D_W
A paint can or coffee can (anything around a gallon in liquid size) lined with refractory blanket and a TS4000 type torch is enough to heat and quench 1/4" thick O1 irons as large as just over 2 1/2".

It's actually a pretty good efficient setup that doesn't take much space and doesn't take long to heat. For practical purposes, the iron that I did in a skew shooter is probably only fully hardened an inch and a half from the tip, but I'll never use that much, and if I do, it can just be reheated and quenched.
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By Hattori-Hanzo
can we have some details on the forge?

Video incoming.

Like D_W says It's an old paint tin cleaned and washed out, I then drilled 4 holes and inserted bolts to act as legs.

Next I mixed fine builders sand with plaster of Paris and water to make a thick paste.
I filled the bottom 2 inches of the tin with the paste then inserted a plastic bottle in the centre to form the hole while packing the paste around it.
I also added a steel tube to the side which accepts a map gas torch.

After 10 minutes or so the plastic bottle can be removed and the tin left to dry for several days before use.

I had some time to make a new thumb screw for the lever cap, while I liked the first one I thought it maybe a little to small as I wanted the screw to be a dominant feature.

Really pleased with how the second one came out.

I managed to accentuate the dome and point more on this one.


And also added a round from the thread into the cap head.


Side by side comparison of the two.


I've also made a start on the blade.

I'm using 6mm O1 tool steel which could help to reduce chatter but it looks quite chunky for a smaller plane.
I've managed to taper the blade from 6mm at the cutting edge to 4mm at the heel, aesthetically I think this looks a lot better and also aids comfort when holding the plane.


And a short video explaining it all and the forge.
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By Bm101
I like that screw. The way the cone retains it's shape through the top cap bit looks distinctive in an understated way. Smart.
First effort is probably best sent to me along with the relative tap size and I'll make sure it gets binned.
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By Bm101
Lol. Fair play!
I've got a bronze casting from Bristol Designs sat on my desk that I can't justify starting really. Far too many other (real life) things to do. But it keeps winking at me! Especially when I read this thread. The only thing I can't do in my shed is the screw so when I finally get it started I'll put it up as a paid job on here. Or buy an old screw cutting mini lathe. *manic laughter*
No. That's not going to happen. Definitely.
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By Bm101
That's really kind but it could literally be years lol. I have a bullnose to finish but I'm on thin ice to get the house done well before I restart that one. It really was a tongue in cheek joke, not a request. :D
Many thanks anyway. You are very kind.
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By Hattori-Hanzo
With the blade nearly finished I've started to work on the wooden box for the plane.

Here's the box in the early stages. I'm using some nice European white Oak with beautiful medullary rays which should show up nicely once polished.


And here is it glued together with the tulip wood lining, I've got a few ideas I want to try out so still a bit more work to do yet.


The plane is nearly finished I've just got a lot of sanding and polishing to do now.
I'm really happy with how this plane has turned out and the mouth is exceptionally fine, I need to find my feeler gauges to measure it properly.

I've also uploaded the second part of the plane blade videos.

Almost ready for the final reveal!

As I said before, Hattori, you've come a long way quickly! Doing a bit of background reading probably helped, but I reckon you've displayed a lot of natural talent & a capacity to learn quickly. If you keep up this pace you really will be in the Holtey class before long... :D

Interestingly (to me, at least), I have just been reading Jim Kingshott's book properly for the first time. I've seen a few of his articles & some excerpts of the book, but hadn't read it 'til now. I wish I had read it a lot sooner! It would have helped me avoid some of the mistakes I made as I blundered along my own path. I recommend reading it to anyone thinking of getting into plane making, he's eminently practical and gives you choices of approach depending on your skills & access to gear. There's still lots to learn, of course, and skills to develop (like accurate peening), that only come by doing. It tickled me to see that I have independently figured out a few of the things he mentions . Convergent evolution at work....

So, onwards & upwards...!
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By Hattori-Hanzo
Honestly thank you so much for the comments guys I really do appreciate every one.

I still think my planes and techniques are light years away from Mr Holtey but I can aspire to his standards and workmanship.

Thank you for the recommendation on the book too, I will certainly check that out.

I feel like I want to try something different for my next project so watch this space :)

Thanks again all.
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By Hattori-Hanzo
Finally I finished the Mitre plane and box.
I spent a couple of hours taking some photos and video.

The box is made from European white oak with Walnut dovetail keys.








I added some Cedar curls for their lovely smell every time you open the box