Left handed Union graduate modification

[minilathe22]

I have a Union Graduate with the long bed on the righthand side and the short stubby bowl turning "bed" on the left. I have found I rarely use the longbed side as I have got into making large/flat style bowls. I am also left handed, so find using the bowl turning side much more convenient.

However I find the bowl turning side a bit limited, firstly without any option of a tailstock to keep things steady/drilling, but also the range of movement in the single slot for the toolrest is often restrictive. If I was right handed I could just swap to the shortbed version with a tailstock arm, but I am wondering if I can create a left handed version by purchasing the shortbed and mounting it upside down on the left hand side of the lathe? I would need to drill three mounting holes in it, and perhaps bolt the tailstock arm and toolrest arm to the bed with a large washer. Does anyone see any issues with this setup before I buy one and find it doesn't work? You can see the reverse side of the shortbed in the last photo here:

http://www.gandmtools.co.uk/shop/union-graduate-short-bed-lathe-bracket-used-80206844/

 

[CHJ]

If you have a VFD (3ph.) you could you not just reverse the motor direction and work from the other side of the bed, for safety you would need to fit locking grub screws to your chuck and faceplate collars to stop them coming loose from a catch or heavy load.

 

[minilathe22]

Unfortunately I don't think that helps me, the issue with the shortbed in its normal configuration, but chuck running backwards is that it is biased towards the right handed side, with one sideways slot much longer than the other. So I would not be able to reach the edge of larger bowls. With the bed upside down the longer slot is now on the correct side (but I am worried it may not work well upside down until I try it).

Mounting it on the left hand side means I can use the LH thread and not worry about grubs screws etc.

 

[minilathe22]

Having given it more thought, I think a free standing tool rest would be a more flexible alternative, but they seem very expensive.

I might consider a homemade free standing tool rest, does anyone know how much the Wadkin free standing tool rest weighs?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I have a freestanding one for mine, commercially made from 4" x 4" and 4" x 2" box section steel which I concreted - it's probably about 100kg. inc. the banjo and rest.

 

[minilathe22]

That sounds very heavy, I was hoping 40kg would be enough to hold it still. Do you have any photos of it out of curiosity?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I've a new camera so struggling a bit at the moment, but I'll try.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You should get some pics. shortly. They aren't good - it's a lump to pull out - but they'll give you an idea. That'd the only place it can be put that it's not in the way, so the fourth leg gets bolted on when it's used. There is one adjustable foot, the others are just wooden blocks.

 

[graduate_owner]

Could you make use of a lighter version by (a) having it made from box section steel welded to a base plate which is large enough for you to stand on while turning. Your own weight should be a considerable help (I'm not being personal here !!), and (b) bolting a strut from rest to lathe casting so again, it's not going t0 move. As long as the strut is low enough so as not to interfere with the work, of course.

Axminster sell a freestanding rest for £430 (buy a spare while you are at it !!!) but the website doesn't give a weight. You could telephone and ask them, just to get an idea. Personally I think welding up a box section steel column say 4" x 4" would be rigid enough, with webs to help connect to the oversized base plate. Steel tube of suitable inner diameter to suit your existing tool rests would save buying additional rests. The awkward bit is the swivel arrangement, perhaps you could use the banjo from the inboard bed?

K

 

[minilathe22]

I think attaching it the lathe body, and still allowing it to moved about might be difficult. Yes I have seen the one axminster sell, I think it is outrageously priced for what it is. I am currently planning to get one of these:

https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-universal-bench-grinder-stand-340162

Remove the top plate. Cut it down so its the same height as the current left hand bed, and then weld a threaded rod coming out of the top. I can then attach the L shaped graduate toolrest holder, and rotate as needed.

In terms of weight, I plan to fill the hollow tube with sand, and if its still not heavy enough attached some circular weight lifting plates to the base.

Hopefully all in less than £100. Making my own from scratch probably cheaper still but starting with the bench grinder rest will save me alot of time. Also I don't have my own welder.

 

[graduate_owner]

Regarding a welder, you could probably pick up an arc welder for under £40. You would only need around 140 amp. They are not nice to use, often referred to as buzz boxes, but I have used one for years and have found mine incredibly useful. Also, arc welding really is not that difficult to do as long as you are not thinking of welding up structural frameworks or car trailers. Some practice on scrap steel after reading up on technique should get you going. Read up on safety too.


K

 

[graduate_owner]

Continued. - AT £66, that stand is not so bad, but still a lot dearer than box section steel. Plus you could make it the height you want. Does it have to be moveable? A strut securing it to the casting would stop any movement towards or away from the lathe. You could fix an L shaped bracket to the graduate, and bolt the strut to the bracket. That would be removeable, and firm when you need it. Might not need to be so heavy then.

K