Ideas for Wardrobe built in the eves of a loft

[swinster]

From this post (http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/...ardrobe-in-an-alcove-the-technique-t8558.html), and for the sake of trying to cut back on the £3-£4.5k quotes I have been receiving I have been inspired to have a go at building in wardrobe in the loft eves. Some of the following I can mange, but I'm not sure of the design below work top the best of my advantage or if there is something else I should try.


Step 1 - Sub Base
Made from 100x50 (4"x2")

Step 2 - Base board
Made from Veneered (black walnut) MDF/Chip[board. Overhangs the sub base from 100mm to give a recess (I know this was discussed above, but I like it that way and I think in this instance it will be appropriate)

Step 3 - Stud work
More 100x50 along the eves of the ceiling

Step 4 - Supporting Stud work
Either 50x50 or 100x50 to attach plasterboard and face frame

Step 5 - Plasterboard.
As draws and a bedside cabinet are going left an right, I think this would be the easiest option. Also mean that I shouldn't need to scribe the face frame on the left and right of the wardrobe.

Step 6 - Wardrobe frame
Everything is relatively easy up until here. Because I'm trying to utilise all the available space, I designed this so that the two centre doors are shaped to fit the room line which means they will need to be centre hung, hence the middle style. However I;m not sure if this will be strong enough to support two doors.
I have toyed with flat top doors or a 5 door solution, but I loose storage space and access to the dead areas.
Was going to use 32x32, but advice here welcome.

Step 7 - Shelves and uprights
Made from 18mm Veneered MDF/Chipboard. May need to drop the side panels down further and have additional panels far left and right to support lower hanging rails. Will probably staid the pine to kind of match the walnut

Step 8 - Face Frame
Made from ??? Walnut strips. This is where me skills may fail me. I can scribe the top as seen in this article but this will be a big frame so not sure how to assemble.

Step 9 - Doors
Not sure what to do here. Acrylic will probably be expensive (just about to find out how much!) but not sure if I can spray MDF to the standard i want. Also worried about the Centre hanging for the two door from a single style.
There will be doors all the way across I just haven't draw them. I also saw a funky bi fold trail system which I think I can get from Woodfit that will allow for better access to the dead space.

Any and all help very much welcome

 

[swinster]

Here's what the loft currently looks like, looking at where the wardrobe would go

Different view, with dummy placement of drawers.

 

[jasonB]

34x34 will be too thin for hanging two doors especially if its the B&Q stuff as they do that size, you will also need more depth to be able to fit the concealed hinges to as the holes need to be 37mm from the front face. 69x36 would be the minimum preferably 94x36.

Is your face frame set behind the doors to just dress up the framewoks as it looks like that from the way its drawn

Having said that I would build it all as boxes from MFC and just use studwork at the sides.

Jason

 

[DTR]

Interesting idea, I look forward to seeing how this turns out.

 

[swinster]

34x34 will be too thin for hanging two doors especially if its the B&Q stuff as they do that size, you will also need more depth to be able to fit the concealed hinges to as the holes need to be 37mm from the front face. 69x36 would be the minimum preferably 94x36.

Is your face frame set behind the doors to just dress up the framewoks as it looks like that from the way its drawn

Having said that I would build it all as boxes from MFC and just use studwork at the sides.

Jason

Thanks for the comments. I did think that the middle stile was a little unmanly, so beefing it up wouldn't be a problem.

The face frame is not to provide any structural integrity, but as you say its just to finish off the look. I'm after a black walnut style finish for the interior of the cabinets, but the stud work and interior framing would be stained. The frame itself could then be relatively thin real wood, say 12mm.

However, I have already considered actually getting 3 carcasses instead of framing the whole thing. I came across this site (http://www.diywardrobes.co.uk) which will allow me to specify the sizes of the cabinets to suit and then simply stud up the remaining wall. I will still need to add a middle style to the main cabinet (as I would like to maintain a full width handing space), and potentially do the same for the other doors if the bi-fold track system doesn't work out (the one from woodfit I don't think will do it, although I actually saw a demo bedroom in B&Q from Chasewood that is similar what I would require). Also, I would need the smaller cabinets to have no left or right panels it give access to the dead space.

I think by getting cabinets cut to suit from a place like this might give me the best of both worlds. Certainly I won't have the problems of MDF dust cutting all the panels, and although Ican deal with strip wood, sheets are a different mater.

 

[John Brown]

A few years back I made a couple of sloping top doors for under-stair cupboards. If the doors are to be flush, rather than "laid-on", then you may experience problems at the top of the hinged side. I know I did!

 

[swinster]

A few years back I made a couple of sloping top doors for under-stair cupboards. If the doors are to be flush, rather than "laid-on", then you may experience problems at the top of the hinged side. I know I did!

Cheers for that. The doors are intended to be liad on using Euro style hinges., so hopefully this won't be an isse.

I have been in further talks with the guy from DIYwardobes, and it seems that the carcaseing idea is making more sense to me now. I can then get the wardobe carcases cut to my spefic sizes with all the edges finished as I want. It will cost a bit more than a DIY frame build, but i think it will be more sturdy and acturate.