Hot Plate Stands

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Sportique

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I thought it was about time I offered a WIP for your entertainment.

The first stage is to form a laminate with contrasting wood - this can be as many layers as you like (but for later simplicity they should be symetric about the centre-line)

1Firststagelaminate.jpg


The laminate is then cleaned up

2CleaninguptheLaminate.jpg


Then sliced on the bandsaw (this can also be done on the tablesaw but the number of slices and the kerf mean a lot of waste!) The slices are numbered as they are cut.

To help with this I use a shop-made sled

3Slicingonthebandsaw.jpg


Each alternate slice is flipped over - making a simple zig-zag patern.

4Alternateslicesflipped.jpg


This new laminate is re-glued

5Re-glueinglaminate.jpg


The excess "pointy" edges are cleaned up on the tablesaw (I use a shop-made taper sled)

6SquaringupontheTablesaw.jpg


Then I missed a couple of photos - doh :oops:

But the cleaned up zig-zag laminate is cut into large right-angle corner pieces and put back together in the form of 2 squares - to reduce waste the paterns are different.

7Laminatecutintomitresandre-gluedin.jpg


Frames fitted and corner mitre keys cleaned up

8Cleaningupthecornermitrekeys.jpg


The final Hot Pan Stands.

9TwoHotPanStands.jpg


BUT - not sure how they will deal with the heat - time and use will tell - maybe they will warp :oops: :oops: Or maybe they will be OK :D

Thanks for watching

Dave

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A very interesting WIP and an outstanding end result! :D

I wouldn't expect them to warp at all, as you've basically glued many tiny pieces together... What finish are you thinking of using, if you haven't used one already?
 
Very nice indeed! They look great, and you have so many jigs and such for your tools!! Got myself a few ideas there *yoink!*.... :p
 
Good project...but you'll find a large ceramic tile set into a frame works just as well, with no problems about damaging the finish (on a wooden one) should something mega toasty be deposited on it - Rob
 
I love your bandsaw jig! Those "stop blocks" are very clever.

Can you expand a bit on the use of the "red strings" and also how, if you do, compensate for "drift"?
 
Thanks everyone for your interest.

Olly - good point regarding the "anti-warp" factor!
Just 2 light coats of oil - experimental really.

CB - hmmm embarrassing - I tend to spend too much time making jigs etc :oops: :oops: But then that's part of my enjoyment.

Rob - good thinking Batman! But they will be used as dining table items, so I had not expected anything especially HOT.

Waterhead37 - drift is not an issue for many reasons: (1) adjust the bandsaw bearings, (2) the sled has a kerf-width slot which tends to limit drift, (3) sharp blade, (4) slow feed rate, and (5) cutting lengths are generally quite short - maybe 8-10cm

The "red strings" - these are guide wires and are used when cutting second or third generation patterns. The zig-zag design is a first generation, if you then slice the resulting laminate at an angle to create the second generation you will find that an end-stop is not sufficiently accurate and any errors will accumulate. It is vital that the pattern is cut at precisely the same part of the design each time. Because the wires they can be adjusted to equal the width of the full pattern, it is then easier to centralise the pattern beneath the wires and the blade therefore dissects the pattern in the same place each time. The wires are also height adjustable so that limits any parallax error. (Does all that make sense?)

I can't claim originality for the sled - saw the design in a laminate book, but PM me if you want to know more about the method.

Dave
 
I never saw this thread back in January, very interesting, could do with a 34 inch length. :wink:

I am surprised that the bandsaw gave a decent glue surface for the joins.

So you can guess what I have got in mind.
 
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