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By sunnybob
#1187147
After applying a LOT of effort with pipe grips, nothing moved.
Looks like I am going to have to make some spanners. It might even need a hammer as well. Its very obvious these havent been moved before.
DAMN!
By AES
#1187160
OK, but this sounds like a tough job.

So before going any further, what does the machine sound like when it's running - at all speeds? And if you've got a DTI ("clock") how much run out is there (chuck something you KNOW is round and straight - a bit of silver steel, or at worst any old good really round bar, checked for straightness by holding up to the light against a rule)? If the lathe sounds OK, and doesn't got hot around the head stock bearing housing when running fast, and assuming the run out is reasonable, personally I MAY be inclined to leave the job well alone for a while until you're more comfortable with handling the lathe overall.

By then you'll either have found a suitable spanner/s, or, more likely perhaps, be happy with tackling making you own tooling for it.

Also (sorry if this is teaching Granny to suck eggs sunnybob) don't forget that as this is a RH thread, the 1st (outer) nut is a locking nut, so to get it undone you MUST grip the outer nut quite still - NO turning - while SLIGHTLY TIGHTENING the inner nut. If it was done properly at the factory and hasn't been touched since, you'll NEVER get it undone with just one spanner/pipe wrench/mole grip/whatever.

Good luck

AES
By J-G
#1187188
AES wrote:So before going any further, what does the machine sound like when it's running - at all speeds? And if you've got a DTI ("clock") how much run out is there (chuck something you KNOW is round and straight - a bit of silver steel, or at worst any old good really round bar, checked for straightness by holding up to the light against a rule)? If the lathe sounds OK, and doesn't get hot around the head stock bearing housing when running fast, and assuming the run out is reasonable, personally I MAY be inclined to leave the job well alone for a while until you're more comfortable with handling the lathe overall.

I concur with that sentiment.
AES wrote:... this is a RH thread, the 1st (outer) nut is a locking nut, so to get it undone you MUST grip the outer nut quite still - NO turning - while SLIGHTLY TIGHTENING the inner nut. If it was done properly at the factory and hasn't been touched since, you'll NEVER get it undone with just one spanner/pipe wrench/mole grip/whatever.

I would like to know what the 'Lock Ring' - - item 26 on page 9 of the manual - - does. I can speculate that it locks the chuck/main spindle but could be wrong. If that is the case then surely with that in operation the lock nut could be unscrewed - - maybe by putting a well fitting 4.5mm dia bar in one of the holes (as long as the hole is at least 5mm deep - deeper would be better) and clouting that with a hammer!
By sunnybob
#1187194
when the cogs are removed and the chuck spindle is free, there is a slight rubbing from the bearings. No notching or squealing, and no discernable movement.
I'm sure the lathe would still run fine for short periods, but theres enough there to irritate me and for me to want to replace them.

That "lock ring" is merely a plastic shroud "locked" down to the headstock with a tiny slotted grub screw, to cover the back of the chuck from stuff getting wrapped up in it.
The holes are quite shallow, no more than 6 mm deep at most, but there are plastic cogs and pulley wheels all around it. I would need to strip everything out to be safe from bouncing hammer blows.

Its a stupid design to have those collars completely smooth, whats wrong with two normal nuts?
I have quite a lot going on at the moment so this is now going to have to be put back for a month or so. I'm off to the UK in 2 weeks so may just let it go till I can buy the correct spanners.
Luckily I dont have any pressing need to use the lathe just yet.
By AES
#1187204
YOU may find SketchUp easy J-G, I do NOT! (Yup, "practice makes perfect" and all that - I get frustrated with such stuff too quickly/easily). Nice clear drawing anyway.

I didn't down load the Manual, but as J-G says, sunnybob, getting a simple bar which is a nice snug fit into one of the holes of the outer ring and then banging it with a hammer may well work.

But if you're off to UK anyway soon, buying the correct tools is an even better idea.

Welcome to the land of metalworking lathes BTW - a land of loads of frustration and puzzlement plus LOTS of satisfaction (a bit like being married really) - GREAT! :D

AES

Edit for a PS: How is the chuck held onto the nose of the main shaft sunnybob? Threaded? Bolted to an adaptor?
By sunnybob
#1187206
You cant just use a bar. There is no way to lock the spindle. It requires two spanners used against each other.
Even then there is nothing to rest one spanner against as you bash the other one, apart from the motor casing.
a REALLY stupid piece of engineering on an otherwise very well made lathe.
By J-G
#1187247
sunnybob wrote:You cant just use a bar. There is no way to lock the spindle. It requires two spanners used against each other.
Even then there is nothing to rest one spanner against as you bash the other one, apart from the motor casing.
a REALLY stupid piece of engineering on an otherwise very well made lathe.

It does look to be well engineered in many respects - particularly having twin taper roller bearings - so not having a spindle lock seems out of place. Ever seeking to circumvent deficiencies, I try to think 'outside the box' - - - - you could clamp a bar in the chuck which also extends into the gap in the bed. This would effectively 'lock' the spindle.

The plastic gears should not be taking any of the stress applied since they should be dis-engaged - surely they are only engaged when auto-feeding or screw-cutting?

6mm deep ought to be enough to provide sufficient purchase in a 4.5mm hole but I suspect that a 'tickle' with a hammer wouldn't do much - it would need a 'short sharp shock', maybe after a dose of penetrating oil ?
By J-G
#1187250
AES wrote:YOU may find SketchUp easy J-G, I do NOT! (Yup, "practice makes perfect" and all that - I get frustrated with such stuff too quickly/easily). Nice clear drawing anyway.

I will admit that it's not the first drawing I've done - I have a fully detailed SketchUp model of my Myford S7 and a brick by brick drawing of my property :)
By sunnybob
#1187268
I had reached the "lock the chuck" stage, but to be honest, this has gone from a half hour job to a major inconvenience as I would have to remove all the pulleys and plastic gears just in case the hammer bounced, so it is now too far down my urgent list for a few weeks, so my lathe practice is on hold.
By AES
#1187308
@J-G: I envy you both the Myford (I have a little Chinese "mini lathe") and the SketchUp competence.

"One day" - (maybe) :wink:

Sunnybob, in my world anyway, there's no such thing as "a half hour job". Either I reckon on a half hour and end up 3 days later, OR I reckon it'll be a really long job and it ends up "finished before I've even started"! "Welcome to my world. Won't you come on in .... " etc., etc. And all that ..... Enjoy your UK trip mate.

AES
User avatar
By MickCheese
#1190615
Just a thought.

Have you tried looking for a suspension C spanner?

My motorbikes all have suspension adjusted with C spanners.

Mick
By sunnybob
#1190629
Mick, REAL bikers use big screwdrivers and club hammers! (lol)

But no, wont work on this as the collar is too small. Its only 32 mm diameter, and the hole is only 4.5mm round and 5 mm deep. I could grind the peg down, but no way to balance two spanners that are far too big.

Must admit i think I will sell this lathe on. I'm too far into woodwork now to start collecting yet another set of tools, and this is far too small to be useful as a wood lathe.